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Hi Jason, Hope things come right. There's been some changes here by the looks.

A couple of months late, but I'm here less now the SP is gone, but I had 10" lengths of fuel hose blocked off with bolts, so you just unblock them & plug em in to the gauge. I've had to raise fuel levels for steep conditions (on CV carbs), but I'd not compromise a good setup for this, only enough to...

One has to ask if all you replaced was the MC then was it original Yam? ie: is there an issue with too long a banjo bolt or naff washers causing it to suck air.

"But the rear wheel spins & spins?"
erm, what do you actually mean by this?

crap, ankles feet can take a while. As it starts to get better the exercises will be important.

Never really thought of mine as peaky, but when I first got it the original tyre was squared off & old & groady. I went around a moderately fast up & over type corner unweighting the bike a bit & the rear tyre lit up McCoy style. Cool,:cool . . . but aware that it was totally unintentional & could h...

Sorry to hear that man. Hope it is fixable.

Nah they don't have an spare water for lying around on the roads in Queensland. Maybe he slipped on Green slime?

Could be wrong (was once, but it was disproved) but the thermostat is surrounded by a rubber seal & the housing seals on that. Never seen one leak, but worth checking it is not damaged or anything.

Whatever you do take the thermostat out (hidden under carbs but easy to get to once you poke around) & flush the system with a low pressure hose both directions before putting it back in. Amazing how much gets caught up in that low point.

There are no stupid questions, only stupid people. Just kiddin. If it is a std shock there is no ride adjuster, although it was a kit part. Ok so you have to jack the back up & drop out the wheel & undo that nut, then drop the shock out & insert a 5mm spacer or a couple of washers ~ the same. Make s...

Pilots are often too rich from std, but whether it stalls when idling is irrelevant. Because you might be doing a bunch of revs on a closed throttle coming into a corner; it won't stall at those revs but it is still running off Pilot. to requote myself: "With all slide carbs where the throttle is di...

With all slide carbs where the throttle is directly linked to the slide you have to think of Jetting in relation to Throttle position. Not revs. This is where most people fall down. It is entirely possible to have it too lean in one area & too rich in the other. Yes the mainjet is most important, bu...

125GPs typically run 415. Think they also stuff around with roller dimension like in 532

I use a DID tool (branded DID but made by some other crowd) that splits & also can rivet the chain. Mushrooms over the rivet nicely, had used a centrepunch on an old dirtbike, but that is a no-no I was later told by chain rep so I sucked it up & bought the tool. Not super cheap but ok in the long ru...

That's hardly a decent measure. I don't like Maxima because it smells terrible. :poke Spectro is probably good but it goes everywhere. Plutoline is my choice. (although have a scotoiler on my Barge-like RF9, but I don't care about the weight). DID x chain & AFAM sprockets even in 520 & ally seem to ...

Don't know if this is much help but my SP is on 138 Dynojet brand Mainjets with the airbox fitted but larger inlet. Sorry don't know other jets off hand.
Even without airbox 162 sounds big, but different jets do flow differently.

Sorry not sure I understand. Pre radial R1s are 14mm. ZZR250s etc are 14 too & are the same unit close enough. These work best not surprisingly with R1 callipers. Most master cyl (like FZR/YZF) are 5/8 which is 15.8mm. Running 5/8 on an R1 setup would be wooden & less powerful. Running 14 on a FZR o...

They can take a while to bed in & sort themselves out after a rotor or calliper change or even new pads. Acid test: Ride the bike somewhere safe at open road speeds without ever touching the brake. Stop the bike with rear brake & carefully touch the front discs. If it is hot then you have an issue, ...

If the blocks are the same size & a tight fit then that is the easy option. . . . If the swingarm & frame are straight. Production tolerances mean new bikes can be out a bit & a crash can tweak things a little. Maybe not enough so as you notice it directly but worth checking. & worth correcting for ...

Yeah the laser idea is all very well but over trick. how well will it work on a sunny day. The low tech flat piece of bar is easy to get as accurate as you need. I've seen those marks well off, (not on the YZF) but I'd always want to calibrate them with a test before trusting them. One bike had a lo...

Alignment tool for $20 Professionals use string. I’m too stupid to tell if the line is straight. Buy yorbadself a 4-5m long piece of square ally tube of suitable thickness that it won’t get tweaked & check it against something flat. Tape another foot long section to one end. ie: to make it thicker. ...