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Actually there are to phenomena occurring simultaneously. Mass flow (inertia) and acoustic wave. The analogy is a river flowing down stream with waves on its surface moving in not necessarily the same direction. The theory behind exhaust acoustics was dealt with in the sixties. A book titled "The sc...

From reading your post, I would guess that your idle/pilot circuit is too lean. If you have to give it enough throttle to get above 2500 on take off, your starting to get beyond the pilot ciruit and into the territory of the needle jet. If your bike doesn't respond to the choke as excpected, and if ...

I should add that I have noticed that the temp build up is very sensitive to the idle mixture. Leaning the mixture out to where the idle runs rough and drops by 200 rpm is so lean that there is no problem with heat (runs very cool, actually). Adjusting the mixture to the rich side doesn't cause heat...

I interpreted the problem to be a ignition problem and not a starter system problem. The reference to the kickstand switch is right on the money. Its in a vulnerable area and is prone to cause problems. Another problem area is the plug for the ignition switch. It carries a high current load and a li...

You probably have an ignition problem.<br>1.Make sure you're not running resistive plugs and the gaps are within spec.<br>2.check the resistance of your plug caps and compare it to the values in the shop manual.<br>3. check the secondary resistance of your coils.<br>4. make sure there are no splits ...

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that the heim joint that connects the bottom of the shock to the rising rate linkage dries out well before the other pivot points.<br><br>Paul <p></p><i></i>

Methanol?<br><br>Do you race? I can't imagine you can go to far on the road without someone trailing behind you carrying gas cans full of methenol. The energy density is so much lower, so fuel is consumed quickly. Have you ever dynoed it? I would imagine that it runs furiously with output in the hig...

The rear shock is connected to a rising rate linkage. This should be disassembled, cleaned, inspected, refurbished and greased around every 20k. If anyone has washed it at the car wash or if they blasted directly at the pivot points on the linkage with a garden hose, water has inevitably entered the...

LC130LOAD1 - <br><br>first question: what the heck does your handle signify? <br><br>Main topic: FZ750 CAMS.<br>I have had a set of these cams laying around for years. Its been a good ten years since I did a rough comparison of the base circles and peak dimensions of the lobes. If my memory serves m...

I'd check your float level. The floats might be saturated with fuel and therefore less boyant. You might also have a problem with leaking float needle seats - either at the needle or the oring that seals the seat to the carb body. <p></p><i></i>

The air jets are visible in your picture. If you look at the bottom of the carb inlets ( top in picture), you will see the recessed holes with screw in brass inserts. One of those is the main air jet. Air enters through the air jet and proceeds to the emulsion tube that surrounds the needle jet. The...

Mark,<br><br>in my previous post I failed to mention that in your situation where the carbs are between the turbo and engine, they see a varying volume of air and variation in density. Carbs are designed to change the amount of fues being delivered based on the volume of air. Your carbs don't recogn...

Mark,<br><br>my interpertation of your system is as follows:<br>air is introduced to the plenum directly from the intercooler. the air flows out of the intercooler, heading toward the back end of the bike. It has to do a sharp bend downward to enter the carb throat. The airflow in your carbs is be b...

Mark,<br><br>Where are your bowls being vented to? I assume that they are connect to the plenum just before the carbs. Take into consideration that as demand for air increases, the velocity of the air increases past your vent point and causes a drop in pressure in your bowls. If you jet to make up f...

I'm with you on being cheap. There is no need to change it unless there is corrosion on the wire crimp point. Don't make the mistake of applying dielectric grease to the contacts to prevent further corrosion. The film will add resistance and lead to burned contacts. <p></p><i></i>

You could try using a mighty vac tool to pull the fluid through or you could allow gravity to feed it in over a few hours. A smaller piston would not be a problem as long as it displaces enought fluid to disengage. My lever disengages the clutch with less than half it travel which means a smaller pi...

The clutch basket is delicate, causing chatter during hard launches. This chatter, and more importantly the shock of dumping the clutch, will fatigue the individual castellations on the basket and explode. Not very pretty. I don't believe that you could blow out your wheel bearings from dropping the...

Wiseco o-ringed my cylinder with wire, after I complained multiple times about coolant pressurization. This worked a little while for me until the copper/magnesium alloy combination galvanically corroded enough to leak again. There is no way to prevent the dissimilar metals from acting like a batter...

Corrosion is always the primary electrical culprit. I don't know if you guys would consider it too dorky, but I use a leaf blower to dry out the connectors, switches and nooks which collect water after sudsing up the stallion. All these areas collect water, with detergent (worse), and don't normally...

I see that nobody has helped you yet. Its that time of year where the days are shorter, so you will need some form of light in the near future, and I hate thinking that out of desperation you might be zipping around one armed with a flashlight bouncing a weak yellow beam off what you think is a cat ...