ZX7RR Build.

[spook]

I just put up a massive introduction to JasonL's ZX7RR build here, and when I clicked submit, it asked me for login, and the post was lost, even though I went back to try and find the bloody thing. I guess you will all have to wait, I'm going to have to go through the grieving process.

[spook]

Here is a start, the donor ZX9 motor 30K blown head gasket, but a place to start.

[ThomVis]

The same reason I notepad long posts and open the forum when I'm ready to submit.

[spook]

Hi, Thomvis. That's exactly what I'll do next time!

[spook]

Okay here is an introduction as to what we are doing to JasonL's ex Worksish Zx7RR M1, and why!

We are currently building a Zx9R motor for it to make it more competitive in the P7 class, as it runs against up to 2000 R1's GSXR's ect. And it struggles. The last meet I went to with Jason saw the M1 passing all the competition down through the tight technical stuff, only to be overtaken again on the straights, and to do it all again, which Jason did, to his credit. While the engine puts out over 130 rwhp, it needs more to be competitive. Another motivator, was that the 750 engine had an oil leak we couldn't track down in bike, plus it is fitted with a full blown kitted Hallam Bros engine that needs a freshen up and to be put aside in a crate for future rules and prosperities sake.

The ZX9 engine has a longer stroke, which means we need to modify the mounts on the ZX9r motor, either by welding the mounts up and re-drilling, or by press fitting elongated bushes into the head, and perhaps the frame. In no way do we wish to alter or modify the fame, as it is factory kit frame, braced and not anodized, it doesn't have a serial number.

[spook]

On good advice, and notepaded, (if that is a word ) here is a rough spec of what we are building:

- OEM ZX9r crank is being (further) balanced, with a crank specialist here in Melbourne.

-Rods are being re-sized, balanced, and shot peened.

-We thought we would use a M1 close ratio trans, but the box we had spare had odd gears on it and will not be used, thankfully the 30K old oem box looks very good, so we will be using that, plus in real life at our level of racing, it probably offers the best usable ratios, as well as easier starts. In races that are generally only 5-7 laps, this makes sense.

-Wiseco forged big bore kit at 13.5 to one compression. (this is creating problems of its own)

-Re-bored with bores aligned, and decked by the legendary Phil Tainton racing in Melbourne.

-M1 kit cams, the cam wheels are not the same as the ZX7, However it seems adjustable APE ZX9r alloy cam wheels can be modified to suit the ZX7RR kit cams, so we will purchase a set and see what we can do.

-Removal of Alternator and starter circuit. This is a problem… The mod was achieved by using Kawasaki kit parts which link the crankshaft and oil pump with different gears, and a special chain and manual adjuster. I'm wanting to do it by having a new chain made, or finding a joining link, and converting the auto chain adjuster to manual so we end up with the 3 mm chain deflection the kit manual specifies.

- New bearings seals, clutch stack free play adjusted for, a more sensitive slip (they are fitted standard with a ramp slipper clutch).

-Factory pro shift kit. (this is like wow) the difference it makes.

- We are tossing up either using the 39mm FCRs and carbon air-box, or a factory pro kit that will give us the same rwhp, with the drivability we want out of this engine.

- I'm also trying to convince JasonL to replace the unobtainable ZX7RR M1 alloy tank with an identical steel ZX7r item.

[sickle44]

Yes, replace the tank!!! First off, and there will be tears. Mind you, will you find that people will pay you the kind of dollars it should command, or no? If not, then I dunnknow. The weight savings can't be that huge, but it still would provide an advantage but not the kind of advantage taking the same amount of unsprung weight would off of the forks, wayyy better benefits, which of course you know.

Reckon I'd do the CV's just for ease of maintenance. CV's are pretty hard to beat once properly set up, granted so are FCR's but the bitch of a time to set them up properly will be a LOT longer. It's racing as well so it wouldn't be affected as much as the street, but I've heard it said before that FCR's work really well in two positions open and closed, that's it.

[JasonL]

Yes I know, I need a steel tank....I have one at home but it belongs to a bike I want to sell complete, and any that have come up for sale over the past few months have been 1/ infrequent and 2/ too expensive for what they are. We'll find one.

Agree CV's are likely the way to go, I (think) i'm someone who likes to get on the power very early and lightly, and progressively dial it in, and like confidence and feel in the metering to do so.

I was keen to get out and do a race series here starting April 1st but in reality I can't afford it so taking our time to do this build is better anyway, and it'll be great to get out on it when we're comfortable its sorted and see how it goes. I haven't raced or ridden for a year and i have to admit with the kids getting older and so forth, racing hasn't occupied my mind the way it has previously. But I know once I'm out there it all kicks back in again - right now I feel happy enough just to do the odd track day I think!

[sickle44]

Why not just grab a crash damage tank for the time being, in essence, I'd be wanting to build a nice aluminium job anyways eventually with fiberglass tank cover, like the Harris framed FZR, WoW! that things gorgeous! Ralph just threw up a link for it, although, like you said, I greatly understand the necessity to distribute funds where my wife and children usually need them distributed too, hobbies come last, unless it's coffee.

[spook]

Jason is wanting to paint the bike in Kawasaki France colours. So it would make sense to paint the steel and the alloy tank at the same time. This the scheme we are going with, Jason? But with saturn black wheels. Personally I like the green, but either will look fine.

Edit: Jason has decided to go solid green in a metal flake, and the black wheels. A sensible choice as it is much less work and expense.

Kwaka France:



As it came to Jason, and how it is going to stay. It's a fine looking bike! Porky to sit on, but handles unbelievably! I've never ridden a bike that steers so intuitively.

[sickle44]

Personally I like the green, but either will look fine.

+1 Yes please!!!

Although not very fun to clean, it'll look so much more bitchin' than basic black. What colour do you think is responsible for half of all the Kawi fans being Kawi fans to begin with anyways??? Yes, that'd be for sure, Beautiful lime green ZX-9, I just found the FZR first out of the two I was looking for.

[spook]

Yes the Kwaka France colours do look porn, we will work out colours down the track.

[kiwi60]

[spook]

One thing that I found once it was apart was an aluminum sludge residue in the sump. I inspected everything, only to find no sign of noticeable wear. The sump went into the ultrasonic cleaner, but I felt it necessary to look inside the spin on filter, for metal or any signs of something going on.

I bought this large filter can opener, (didn't realise how big it was till it arrived), it did a good job of cutting off the steel spin on can, and the filter thankfully was absolutely clean. A relief, and a good tool to have in the shed finally.



before and after ultrasonic cleaning... Magic:

[spook]

Strainer, and oil cooler cleaned out and sump back on. probably should have left it to last, but it's on now...lol.



Kit alternator block off plate, For the starter block off I used a 30mm welsh plug. Cheap and won't leak or come loose. The same can be used on our FZR's and lots of other bikes. I've got 10 stainless plugs on order.

[spook]

The crank has been sent away (I took it there and then picked it up...lol) for a fine balance with the ignition timing wheel attached. There was about a gram taken out of the crank total.

The organisation is one of our Country's best. Humble, honest, and insightful.

I actually asked whether spending the money on this sort of fine tuning, on what are already pretty well balanced oem parts was actually worth it?

The answer was, harmonics have an origin, and the mitigation of them, goes a long way to to a properly balanced engine at the end.

More on that later.

So here is a riveting photo of the crankshaft....

Makes me happy

[JasonL]

Mmmm lovely bike bits. My bike bits.

[spook]

Yes they are very tasty Jason

Here is a photo of Jason's freshly resized rods, and the jig I made up to balance them properly.

Pistons have been weighed and are about a gram and a half different in weight, this will be rectified to as as close to nothing as possible.

Picture of rods and Jig:

[spook]

We have had the cylinder block re-bored block accompanied by Wiseco 13:1 overbore pistons.

Work was carried out by Phil Tainton. He is a legendary Australian superbike driving force. His relationship with Suzuki, Kawasaki, and probably others has yielded many Australian Superbike Championships, though I think he outsourced these, and I'm hot on the trail...

The pistons raise some concern, as there are some kit valves in Jason's inventory of parts. But they are flat faced, and I guess would move the compression ratio of 13.5:1 to or above 14:1, and the rules require you use pump gas with no additives. so there is a problem in itself.

[spook]

This build is still on the go. I'll update photos and progress etc, shortly.