Page 1 of 1

boring/resleeving

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 10:41 pm
by McFizzer
Okay so Ernest has a 1070 kit that I want. Question is. How much would boring and resleeving usually go for to suit the kit. My one guy sad 250 roughly for boring for a 1040 kit but am unsure of the price for sleeving.(US dollars)

Next question in which if I were to install what are common problems with the kit and overheating/blowing head gaskets and what's the fix?

Do I have to have over sized valves? Like I said I just plan on running the kit with my 750 cams and gearbox.

Speaking of gearbox, do I need to use the oil sprayer thing(brass lookin with holes in it) from the 750 or will my 5 speed one work. If not why? Just thought id mention it since I saw something on fzr1000.co that I needed EVERYTHING

Cheers guys

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 11:07 pm
by kiwi60
Speaking of gearbox, do I need to use the oil sprayer thing(brass lookin with holes in it) from the 750 or will my 5 speed one work. If not why? Just thought id mention it since I saw something on fzr1000.co that I needed EVERYTHING
Yes you will need the 750 oil spray bar as well as it directs the oil spray to cover 6 gears instead of the 1000's 5.

I'm runnning a 1040 kit and IMHO, you don't NEED a 6 speed as the extra power seems to close the gears up very nicely indeed, however, each to their own. :)

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 11:42 pm
by McFizzer
Okay I'll order one through my shop unless someone has one here they want to flog me :)

Problem is my 2nd gears shot on the 5 speed and I have a 6 speed in great nick just missing the oil spray bar -_- .. kiwi thanks for always being ontop of things :) lol

Now to find a basic price on sleeving and seeing if the price is within range for the 1070 kit

big bore kit.

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:35 am
by creed12r
With the 1070, you have to open up the crankcases to accomodate the larger liners, so where the barrel normally just slides down the studs into the cases you have to trail fit the re-sleeved barrel and grind away where it touches until it's a nice sliding fit.

You need the Wiseco base gasket to suit the re-linered barrel but you can use the standard Genuine Yamaha head gasket that fits and works although people will tell you it doesn't.

I've had 2 Cometic/Wiseco head gaskets and both of them started leaking almost straight away. the standard one has been fine.

You may have problems using the YZF750 cams with the big bore kit as the valves can touch the pistons and the top of the pistons need to be machined.

I think the ones Ernest is selling are ready machined to use for the YZF750 cams/head???

I would recommend the 6 speed conversion to anyone but with the additional work and expense necessary to fit the 1070, I think the 1040 is the better option.

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:16 am
by McFizzer
Thank you creed for the information. I guess I'll go the 1040 route. The 1070 would be nice if I was doing drag racing but the funds just aren't there me thinks. I just really want to hit the 150 mark at the rear wheel. I think that'll be enough...for now... Then I'll invest in an R1..

Does anyone have a thunderace crank kicking around?

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 11:51 am
by Big Jon
I've done the 1040 on my Ace (sorry no crank) and am quite happy with it. I know of another Mike that did the 1070 on his FZR and also shaved the head (as well as a ton of other stuff). If he was to do it again he said he wouldn't shave the head as he's gone through a pile of head gaskets from all kinds of suppliers. I used an Athena gasket kit for my rebuild and wasn't really happy with the quality never mind the missing o-rings and seals that kept me running to the shop. 150hp might be a little high, but go for it, make sure you keep using the same dyno, as different ones give very different results.

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 1:40 pm
by McFizzer
Well I've got my 750 cam's which I hope will help paired with a bore kit. I'm not sure yet what to do about jetting.. Ive got stage 1 FP in there and I think that will be enough. Im going to buy some falicon adjustable cam sprockets and degree the cam's as well, maybe squeeze some free extra hp..

I think if I wanted to gain any more power from the setup without making taking out the starter clutch and what not, flatslides or an FI conversion. For the time however its more about fixing my oil eating problem, freshing the motor and being as be... Im 190 in gear. Im joining a gym so I can get down to 170 out of gear...hopefully...

treadmill FTW!

Kiwi didn't you say you were over 140 rwhp with a slipping clutch?

What can I expect out of torque increases along with ways to possibly adding torque... I already went -1 in the front and love it so I think as far as gearing goes, that will be my norm.

Cheers

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 11:00 pm
by kiwi60
Kiwi didn't you say you were over 140 rwhp with a slipping clutch?
Yep - 142.16 to be exact, all with std EXUP cams too.

I chonicalled the build at the following link:

http://www.exupworldwide.com/forum/view ... sc&start=0

and you can see how i got there.
I think the best tip I got was from GT Lewis about the heat barrier between the motor and carbs, plus lifting the front of the tank to as much cool air around the BMC filters as possible - not the prettiest look, but VERY effective :)

Thunderace crankshaft.

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 1:22 am
by creed12r
McFizzer wrote:Thank you creed for the information. I guess I'll go the 1040 route. The 1070 would be nice if I was doing drag racing but the funds just aren't there me thinks. I just really want to hit the 150 mark at the rear wheel. I think that'll be enough...for now... Then I'll invest in an R1..

Does anyone have a thunderace crank kicking around?
If you want to use a Thunderace crankshaft in the EXUP, you also need the Thunderace's Hi-Vo chain and guide as they're different and you can't use the originals.

I have a spare Thunderace crank , chain and guide and most of a 1040 kit for sale, (I bought a bike with a blown engine and it had broken a rod so one piston was damaged) 3 pistons/rings/pins are as new.

I don't know whether you can buy just one piston?

Re: Thunderace crankshaft.

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 4:26 pm
by Big Jon
creed12r wrote: I don't know whether you can buy just one piston?
From wiseco yes. One piston, then one ring set, then 2 circlips as all are listed seprately. The only way you get more than just a single item is in the complete kit.

Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:53 am
by McFizzer
Yeah I've seen that wiseco sells seperate pistons..like 160 a pop plus the circlips and rings.

I would imagine postage would be through the roof.

Thanks for all the input guys.

Kiwi Im going to bookmark your build when I go home along with cam's.

It'll be my first build so I'll probably be asking alot of questions but I figure I have 3 months to build it and taking my time. I dont wanna eff anything up too bad... lol

Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:58 pm
by McFizzer
Oh and is number "19" under "oil Pump" the right part that I'll need for my 750 trans to spray the oil on the gears. I was using cyclepartswarehouse for the part look up on I think a 96 750.. they should all be the same I as far as i would guess mechanically.

It said "oil delivery pipe" I believe

cheers

pipe

Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 2:18 pm
by creed12r
Yes it's no 19

1AE-1316E-00-00 PIPE, DELIVERY 5

Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 3:49 pm
by kiwi60
When I working on the engine I use this site a lot to check part numbers etc, it's a good one to keep on your favorites list:

http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/parts/home.aspx

parts finder

Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 6:15 am
by creed12r
kiwi60 wrote:When I working on the engine I use this site a lot to check part numbers etc, it's a good one to keep on your favorites list:

http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/parts/home.aspx
This ones good as well


http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamah ... parts.html

Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 2:57 pm
by kiwi60
Certainly is - and I've just added it to my favorites list :)

Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:03 am
by hotcam
For various brands including Yamaha:
Babbits
Yamaha of Troy
Ron Ayres
older stuff:
CMSNL
CCP (Cheap cycle parts)