How do you make fairing molds?

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kiwi60
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How do you make fairing molds?

Post by kiwi60 »

Over the weekend Duke22 and I went to the local race track to watch the heros race in the pouring rain, and we got talking about keeping enough spares to keep our bikes on the track for a good few more years, and there is one of the item we can re-manufacture yet.

Over the years I managed to 'collect' the molds for a racing upper fairing and seat, but haven't got them for the side fairings.

We have a good set of fairings, but I lack the knowledge of how to take a mold off them, not so much how to go about it, but more how and where to brace the out side of the mold etc.


If anyone can give me a lesson I'd appreciate it.

Cheers
“I venture not to cross that finish line in a neat, tidy well ordered bundle, but to slide across it sideways in a shower of spark’s, leaking oil, hissing steam shouting ..Geronimo !!!!! “

2005 SV996R SOLD
1988 FZR750/1040 race bike SOLD
1988 FZR750/1000 - the next project CHANGING THE LOOK AGAIN, BUT STILL ON THE ROAD
Now he's got a KAWASAKI!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nope - Sold that one too
Dang - he’s got a Triumph now :o

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FZRDude
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Post by FZRDude »

SPOOK to the rescue!!!!!
There are some who call me........Tim?
In Memory Of John "Silver" Douglas (Dec. 08, 2008) R.I.P. My Friend.

:wave: :popcorn :cursing :super-mad

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kiwi60
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Post by kiwi60 »

SPOOK to the rescue!!!!!
Where is that masked man...?

Yep, I thought he would be the expert in these matters :)
“I venture not to cross that finish line in a neat, tidy well ordered bundle, but to slide across it sideways in a shower of spark’s, leaking oil, hissing steam shouting ..Geronimo !!!!! “

2005 SV996R SOLD
1988 FZR750/1040 race bike SOLD
1988 FZR750/1000 - the next project CHANGING THE LOOK AGAIN, BUT STILL ON THE ROAD
Now he's got a KAWASAKI!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nope - Sold that one too
Dang - he’s got a Triumph now :o

spook
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Post by spook »

I'm going to do a set for myself shortly, ie FZR1000 88. I hate working with this crap as you know, but the price you get charged for set of raceglass forces you to make it yourself and not purchase.

The side panels are pretty simple (one piece) rule of thumb with the moulds is you make them twice the thickness of the piece that you are going to pull out of them. No bracing or the like required.

When I get to the side panels I'll post so we can do it together if you like. Do you have a commercial supplier for materials

you will need the following:

Tooling gel-coat and hardener 1ltr
PVA release agent 500 ml
mould release wax (tin)
4 ltrs acetone
4-5 mtrs of 200 gsm chopstrand mat
4 litres of laminating resin
mekp harder
cups or icecream containers for mixing.

Spray gun and compressor
small angle grinder

You will have to spend a bit, but if you reckon you can handle it you will save alot over a few sets out of your moulds.

Have a go at making a nose cone out of your moulds and see how you go? You will know then whether you are up to it.
:)

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Post by SJTFZR1000 »

hi guys

ive just about finished moulding 2 sets for my fzr1000 1990 model,i know what u mean by this stuff spook.(sticks to everything)air bubbles are my big problem,even with a ribbed roller,an old fibreglasser m8 told me that you cant rush when u fibreglass,he is right,i think that is another problem of mine .i will put some pics up soon.mine are a bit rough but with the amount of stacks that i have no one will know how rough they are.lol.i just got 450gpm x 10 meters of chopped mat for $40.00 aus from ebay,i was paying 7.50 a meter for 300gpm chopped mat in town
1990 RACING FZR1040 & BROKEN 2001 YZF R1

spook
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Post by spook »

The reason I suggested 200gsm mat up above is that it is easier to work the resin through. You are going to struggle with the heavier 400gsm, both getting the air out but also getting it to conform to the mould shape. Heavy matting tends to spring away from the mould contours hence the air pockets etc on radius's. Two layers of 200 will be far easier to do, and less frustrating to use. Some heavier mats will split down the middle effectively halving the mat into two sheets. If you can get it to do that I would :)

Also, Keep in mind this stuff (especially when sanding) is really bad for you.

When sanded you have glass shards in resin suspension floating around.

That's why it itches when in contact with the skin... Imagine what it is doing to your lungs. It is worse for you than asbestos. No Joke... protect yourself!

Get yourself a proper respirator and always wear it while sanding, cutting or working with this stuff. Also those one piece disposable overalls you buy for a couple of dollars are great for keeping the crap of your clothes and skin as well. I have a large box of disposable gloves as well

Show us what you have made! :)

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kiwi60
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Post by kiwi60 »

All good stuff, keep it coming :)
“I venture not to cross that finish line in a neat, tidy well ordered bundle, but to slide across it sideways in a shower of spark’s, leaking oil, hissing steam shouting ..Geronimo !!!!! “

2005 SV996R SOLD
1988 FZR750/1040 race bike SOLD
1988 FZR750/1000 - the next project CHANGING THE LOOK AGAIN, BUT STILL ON THE ROAD
Now he's got a KAWASAKI!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nope - Sold that one too
Dang - he’s got a Triumph now :o

SJTFZR1000
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Post by SJTFZR1000 »

here are a few pics of some fairing pieces i did last week
these are catch trays
Image

these are 2 l/hand and 2 r/hand side panels
Image
this top fairing is still in the mould and needs some more fibreglass
Image

Image

Image
ihis top fairing has just had a second coad of fibreglass
Image

a bit rough now but a trim some bog and paint and they will be ready to go.
1990 RACING FZR1040 & BROKEN 2001 YZF R1

SJTFZR1000
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Post by SJTFZR1000 »

thanks spook for the info.as you can see from some of the pics this is the second lot of fairings i have had a go at and it is a bit easier the second time around.spook have you ever used the tissue fibreglass cloth m8?i was thinking of giving it a go to try to get rid iof the bubbles in the first layer or two?i have just been useing a coat of fibreglass resin for the gelcoat as the fairings dont have to be a perfect specimen.
i ran out of the pvc release stuff a while back and found out i could use extra hold hair spray,its the wifes as i have no hair....lol.

kiwi this is the stuff i use for making my fairings,minus the safey gear which i was wearing.the more you play with this sticky stuff the easier it gets,im no professional so if i can do it you can.

1st row we have from left....mold release wax/pva mould release liquid/hair spray/a bit of chopped mat fibreglass.
2nd row fibreglass resin/rubber gloves/resin hrardener/air bubble roller,compactor/a bit of woven cloth fibreglass
3rd row assorted cheap paint brushes and a resin container with a measure on the side...the only thing missing is the measurer i use to put the hardener into the resin..it is about 26 degrees here tonight....i added to 400 mls of resin a7 mls of hardener and that gave me about 30 minutes to get the fibreglass wet and ionto the mold.
Image

dont rush too much...
1990 RACING FZR1040 & BROKEN 2001 YZF R1

sickle44
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Post by sickle44 »

As Spook had mentioned regarding protecting yourself Kiwi, I will ditto that recommendation and also raise a protect your eyes as well as your eyes and any dust that might make it in them can reek havoc.

If you'd like to give me a call on this stuff feel free too, but it looks like you've got a lot of the help you need already.

Cheers and Merry Christmas my friend.
Michael
Yes Yes I know, I said, I'm building a project YZF1070

Basement is done now, 850 finished and gone...
Gotta get the new siding up on the house.
Fixing the FZ1 up, cleaning up garage and then I might even begin

spook
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Post by spook »

SJTFZR1000 wrote: have just been useing a coat of fibreglass resin for the gelcoat as the fairings dont have to be a perfect specimen.
Sweet, making some progress :)

I really suggest you think about using gel-coat. You will notice that it is a lot thicker than the resin. Gelcoat will create a bit of a barrier between the mould and first layer of glass, and hence leaving a lot of the small air bubbles far enough from the surface to not matter. Gel also sands a lot easier than resin as it is part filler as is primer.

I haven't used tissue, but a lighter first layer will be easier to deal with for sure. I only use chop strand for moulds, woven for fairings.

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kiwi60
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Post by kiwi60 »

here are a few pics of some fairing pieces i did last week
Can you post some pictures of your molds as well? :)
“I venture not to cross that finish line in a neat, tidy well ordered bundle, but to slide across it sideways in a shower of spark’s, leaking oil, hissing steam shouting ..Geronimo !!!!! “

2005 SV996R SOLD
1988 FZR750/1040 race bike SOLD
1988 FZR750/1000 - the next project CHANGING THE LOOK AGAIN, BUT STILL ON THE ROAD
Now he's got a KAWASAKI!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nope - Sold that one too
Dang - he’s got a Triumph now :o

SJTFZR1000
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Post by SJTFZR1000 »

there ya go kiwi....i took these moulds of the original fairings so you can still see the exup brotherhood sticker imprint....

r/hand side
Image

l/hand side
Image

catch tray,i made this one in a wheelbarrow of sand fron the kids sand pit
Image

and the top fairing...got this one done profesionaly so i could see how it was done then did all the other moulds myself.hope all this helps m8 and will see ya at the island classic...
Image
Image
1990 RACING FZR1040 & BROKEN 2001 YZF R1

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kiwi60
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Post by kiwi60 »

hope all this helps m8 and will see ya at the island classic...
Certainly does, thanks, but you won't see me at tha island classis this time, I've hung up the helmet after one 'get off' too many, and my rider wants to complete the local series this year.

Duke22 WILL be at the island classic with his FZR990 (750 bottom and and EXUP 1040 barrels) plus a spare motor just in case.
He did it last year on is Kwaka H1R and is gagging to get back there on a bike that actually goes round corners ;)
“I venture not to cross that finish line in a neat, tidy well ordered bundle, but to slide across it sideways in a shower of spark’s, leaking oil, hissing steam shouting ..Geronimo !!!!! “

2005 SV996R SOLD
1988 FZR750/1040 race bike SOLD
1988 FZR750/1000 - the next project CHANGING THE LOOK AGAIN, BUT STILL ON THE ROAD
Now he's got a KAWASAKI!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nope - Sold that one too
Dang - he’s got a Triumph now :o

sickle44
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Post by sickle44 »

You can also make molds from polystyrene foam Kiwi. A bit easier for the lay person, in my opinion anyways.
Michael
Yes Yes I know, I said, I'm building a project YZF1070

Basement is done now, 850 finished and gone...
Gotta get the new siding up on the house.
Fixing the FZ1 up, cleaning up garage and then I might even begin

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kiwi60
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Post by kiwi60 »

You can also make molds from polystyrene foam Kiwi. A bit easier for the lay person, in my opinion anyways.
Hmm, interesting, do tell me more Michael
“I venture not to cross that finish line in a neat, tidy well ordered bundle, but to slide across it sideways in a shower of spark’s, leaking oil, hissing steam shouting ..Geronimo !!!!! “

2005 SV996R SOLD
1988 FZR750/1040 race bike SOLD
1988 FZR750/1000 - the next project CHANGING THE LOOK AGAIN, BUT STILL ON THE ROAD
Now he's got a KAWASAKI!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nope - Sold that one too
Dang - he’s got a Triumph now :o

sickle44
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Posts: 3519
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 6:35 pm
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Post by sickle44 »

Like STJFZR said about the belly pan mold being cast in sand, the methods would be quite similar, only instead of sand you are using foam.

Wrap the fairing you want to mold in the kind of plastic window film you place over drafty windows in the winter, not sure if you need such stuff where you're from though Kiwi. Around a very complex surface you will not be able to use one entire sheet more than likely and will need to start with the smaller & more complex areas. If you're feeling lucky you could try release agent or vaseline petroleum jelly. The window wrap stuff is in essence just like shrink wrap and can be heated so that there are absolutely no creases or lines whatsoever. Once the fairing you wish to make a mold of has been completely covered with said wrap. Spray the piss out of it with canned expanding foam, different types of foams will be up to what type of job you want to get. Less expanding foam is denser and will have less airbubbles which will lead to a smooter finish and the hugely expanding forshizel has airbubbles O' Plenty. Can't stress the "go slow" advice STJFZR gave, and make sure you spend good money on proper respitory and eyw protection. Even if you are only using this stuff once, it's worth it. FG is nasty ass shit and CF is even worse.

Hope this helps some Kiwi
Michael
Yes Yes I know, I said, I'm building a project YZF1070

Basement is done now, 850 finished and gone...
Gotta get the new siding up on the house.
Fixing the FZ1 up, cleaning up garage and then I might even begin

SJTFZR1000
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Post by SJTFZR1000 »

there ya go kiwi fairings have all been trimmed up and ready for undercoad and filler

Image
Image

shed is a mess and now full of fibreglass dust,will have to be blown out before pain ting can begin..will keep you up to date m8.
1990 RACING FZR1040 & BROKEN 2001 YZF R1

sickle44
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Post by sickle44 »

Those look great SJT,

What is the weight of the final products in relation to the stock fairings?
Michael
Yes Yes I know, I said, I'm building a project YZF1070

Basement is done now, 850 finished and gone...
Gotta get the new siding up on the house.
Fixing the FZ1 up, cleaning up garage and then I might even begin

spook
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Posts: 3837
Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:12 pm
Location: Melbourne. Australia

Post by spook »

looking good! :) Saved yourself 1500 dollars there! Worth the sweat and the itching for sure :)

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