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I'm wondering what setup would be best for my bike(fzr 1000 1991).
Engine is fully stock with only slipon. There are 2x125 and 2x122,5 main jets, fuel level was about 11mm, mixture screws - I unscrew it without checking, e-clip on needle was on the 3rd groove from top.
Is this setup good?? Is 11mm fuel level correct?? And what about mixture screw??
Before big changes :cool I want to check stock healthy bike on the dyno
fule hight and float hight r different things dont use fule hight use float hight and set em to 14mm dont copy the single sided card tool theres too much variation use the card tool that sits on each side of the carb bowl and ide go 4, 2.5 turns out on the pilots also check the needles 4 were and the emulsions 4 oveling
mixture screw should be 2 1/2 to 3 turns out from fully seated
The only comment I would add for those who live in locations that require emissions testing for your vehicle registration (e.g California, Arizona, etc ...)
You may have to set the pilot air screw closer to 3 turns out in order to pass the emissions test. In Arizona the emissions standard at idle is 1800 ppm (parts per million) for hydrocarbons (HC) and 5.5% (percent) carbon monoxide (CO). The reading on my bike at 2.5 turns out was 553 ppm HC and 7.21% CO (failed CO test) ... too rich of an air/fuel mixture. Not wanting to fail the retest, I took my bike to a local shop that has an emissions tester and had them set it to pass. Final reading was 665 ppm HC and 3.19% CO (passed).
At least in Arizona, the hydrocarbon test is easy to pass but the carbon monoxide test is more restrictive and the pilot air screw setting will have an affect on the CO reading.
and ide go 4, 2.5 turns out on the pilots also check the needles 4 were and the emulsions 4 oveling