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Has anyone successfully used anything other than a stock piece when replacing a YZF750 switch?

I would think looking at stock from the 89-95 FZR1000 would be your best bet Ed as this machine is the one that bears the most parts swapability and likeness. But.....
Have you given the search engine a try on the matter?

A mate of mine replaced the key ignition switch with a pullswitch on his trackday bike, no more looking for keys 5 minutes before the session starts.

Do watch out for the differences in ignition switches:






Both of these bikes are 1994 YZF750s.

Great.... now only do I have to find one, but find the right one!!! What's the easiest way to tell what you've got without ripping a bunch of stuff off? I take it the black one goes on the lockout closer to the top triple clamp?

SteadyEddie wrote:What's the easiest way to tell what you've got without ripping a bunch of stuff off? I take it the black one goes on the lockout closer to the top triple clamp?

The items left/right in the pictures match up. (Sometime compulsions do come in handy)
Other members on the Dutch forum reported they only have the variation right on the pictures.
You can see the indentation on the frame where the lock pin should go with all the fairings on, so it should not be a problem identifying which one you have. Also keeping the locks apart is real easy.

isnt it possible to remove the barrel itself and rebuild it with the same equivilent levers from another lock. I've done it on peds and matched up locks where one of a set was knackered and I wanted to retain the original key.

New keys are always worth looking at too as they wear over time. Plus if its the lock thats sticking when you try to turn the key, use powdered graphite as a lubricant...its what locksmiths use and is V good stuff

hope it helps

Gotta be the ignition switch itself, the tank and seat lock work fine! I'll have to putz around, would be nice to get a new one as I'd probably end up with two keys. Only have one now and don't know the code.

Ed,

I think Stig is correct on this, if you look at the black barrel portions, those are always constant, it's just the other bits the black barrels are attached to that differ greatly, but two screws and the black ign barrel is off of there, I'm pretty sure.