EXUP Worldwide

My FZR1000 is overdue it 40000km service, can anyone tell me if it is possible to adjust the valves yourself? or is it best left to the experts? and is there any things I should know before I start? <p></p><i></i>

I have just done my valve clearances after a top-end rebuild. I put in new rings (GTS1000 type) and valve guide seals in an attempt to cure my `95 EXUP`s excessive oil consumption.<br>After lapping-in all the valves, 6 of which were badly pitted on the seats, I checked the clearances. 4 valves were ok, the rest were out of tolerance. <br>My local dealer had a full set of shims, which he gave me a deal on an exchange basis. It was a very easy job to do with the engine out of the frame and a good quality workshop manual. It looks damn awkward to do with the engine in the bike and although the manual says it`s possible, I wouldnt fancy trying!! <p></p><i></i>

I've done the valve shims with the engine in the bike and it was a LOT harder than doing it with the engine out, though far from impossible. I seem to remember taking out all the engine mounting bolts except the lower rear one and letting the engine pivot forward using a trolley jack so that you could get to the cams easier.<br>You have to remove the rad and loosen the drive chain to do it this way. Also if you strugle to get the cams back in - it can be a bit tight, try fitting the exhaust cam first and torquing it down, then you have loads of slack in the cam chain to fit the inlet. Oil consumtion is a real pain on these motors even after a rebuild, if you blank the original breather that goes into the airbox and fit a tiny K&N filter to the crankcase this seems to help.<br>Also Castrol R4 superbike synthetic seems to really suit the exup.<br>Mark <p></p><i></i>

If you haven't done several valve adj before, this is not the easiest engine to learn the procedure on. First you must take everything in the area off including the radiator. Next you must remove the valve cover, have a new gasket ready in case. This is where the fun begins. Draw a detailed diagram of the valve layout and start measuring each one when the particular cam lobe is opposite the valve. Once you have measured all 20 valves, then the nasty part comes, set the engine at TDC and remove the cams, exhaust is eaisier first then intake. DOn't forget about the cam chain tensioner and the gasket you may need there as well. You must also keep tension on the cam chain as to not allow it to come off the lower, a bugee cord works. Now simply use your diagram you have created and your manual, if you don't have a manual buy one or you will be sorry!, to determine which valves need to go and which ones stay. You will need a supply of shims and there is no way of knowing which ones you will need. Once you have completed both exhaust and intake valves, you must set the cams back in excactly how they came out, the timing must be perfect, one tooth off is not acceptable. If you screw this up, it's GAME OVER, you're engine will destroy itself. So if you make it this far you're pretty much in the clear. This is not something you do if you are not FULLY preparred to go through with it. Our shop charges anywhere from three to four hours for a 20 valve and we have been doing these engines since they came out in 85. This is a very detailed and precise procedure. If you want to save money, remove all lower fairings and the radiatoor as well as the coil panel and bring the bike in like that, it will save you dis assy fees, but you must trailer it in without a rad. Good luck and remember, if you do it and it screws up, you are to blame, but I believe it's worth the money to have a QUALIFIED shop do the adj, if anything goes wrong, at least you can look at them for answers.<br><br>Be Safe, <br>Chuck D. <p></p><i></i>

If you can find a local shop you TRUST that will do it for 4 hours labour charge and have not much experience with engines, then pay them to do it. It takes the patience of a saint, a small magnet and the hands of a paedophile to it right. Being a tight git I do mine myself and grind down the original shims on a surface grinder to save buying new ones.<br>Mark <p></p><i></i>

Grind down the existing valve? You must have a love for machining. Thankfully I have access to valve shims for cheap. If you do it enough, let me know the variety of sizes you need and I can quote you a pretty good deal. I bought a ton of sizes and I have a pretty good stock.<br>Chuck D.<br> <p></p><i></i>