R1 COILS IN A 89 FZR1000

[jmmillerfzr]

Can r1 coils and leads be used in a 89 fzr1000?? Or any other alternatives?? <br><br>Thanks<br> <p></p><i></i>

[ChuckD]

What advatages would you gain? If you need new coils, get OEM replacement, known problems aren't apparent w/ them.<br>CHUCK D. <p></p><i></i>

[exuppower]

Could be the fellow has access to cheap s/hand R1 coils and begrudges the exhorbitant Yama originals price...<br><br>Sorry, I don't know if they fit but good luck. There are aftermarket coils which are said to do as least as good a job. <p></p><i></i>

[jmmillerfzr]

The reason I ask is that I have a 89 fzr1000 that has close to 50k on it and it currently is running on three cylinders. I got married alittle over a year and a half ago and handn't had time to ride let alone maintence my baby. I have owned the bike since it had 2700 miles and have always perfomed all my own maintence. I decided to check the valves and clean and sync the carbs. When I was gettting down to the valves I notice that the covers to the coils had many hairline cracks and with the miles I have, I'm thinking newer coils and wires couldn't hurt. I asked about the r1 coils since I tend to see them on ebay rather cheap. I'm realistic about my bike and the amount I'm able to ride and the value of a exup with 50k on it. I don't want to sink a small fortune into it. My money may be better spend on a differnet bike. Mainly I want to make it rideable again for the days I do have the time to ride. The current bad news is that I'm finding a few of my intake valves a little tight and time isn't on my side. <p></p><i></i>

[flyingcircus68]

Your bike would not run on 3 cylinders if you had a bad coil. It would in fact run on 2. The reason is that the High tension side of the coil fires 2 plugs simultaneously. The electrical path has both plugs wired in series, so both plugs would spark together, or not at all. Each cylinder pair fire on the power stroke and on the exhaust stroke. Granted, one plug could misfire by sparking on the porcelain deep within the plug (carbon fouled), but the root cause of this would be something other that the coil. <br><br>If you have found "tight" valve clearances, I suspect that is your culprit. With inadequate clearance, the valve will be open for a much larger duration (or even constantly), since the valve is now being pushed on by the engagement ramp. These ramps are built into valve train assemblies to prevent the hammering of components during engagement from high velocites and therefore have a long and lazy profile. The correct clearance times the engagement between the lifter and cam at the point where the actual cam lobe begins. You could verify this is the problem by doing a compression test, or better yet leak down test. I would'nt ride around on it with tight clearances because you could burn out, or smash, the valves. <p></p><i></i>

[jmmillerfzr]

I'm glad to know I was thinking along the same lines. Just last night I went out and bought a new compression tester, my last one was in my tool box that was stolen out of my trunk. Must have taken three guys, since I put it in with a engine hoist. <br><br>My intention was to check the compression and see if I do in fact have a valve hanging open. I am having a hell of a time finding a set of clearance gages to fit inbetween the cam brackets to check the valve clearence. Darn narrow space. <br><br>I did find my carbs to be pretty dirty, lost of crud in the bowls and the needles were almost sticky. I'm really starting to think my problem might have been fuel related. I still want to finish up checking the valves and I need to find some new adapters for my vaccum gages, they were also in my tool box when it was stolen. <br><br>Thanks for all the infromation <p></p><i></i>

[flyingcircus68]

I modded a set of standard feeler gages by cutting them to half width, with a cut off wheel on a dremel tool. It works great, just make sure that you clean them very good. <p></p><i></i>