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<br>In order to change the rings on my 89 FZR 1000, do I need to remove the engine or is it possible to do it while it's still in the frame.<br>Is this the sort of task a relative mechanical novice could\should undertake?<br>I am sick to death of having to fork out hundreds of pounds at the garage just because they tell me "your bike is hard to work on." <p></p><i></i>

Hi Hiras!<br>Well..<br>If You love crawling and lying around the bike,I think it is possibe...I prefer engine on the table..<br>But at least lover the engine front side supporting with jackstand and one rear screw (loose) still attached.<br>If You really want to do this job alone,buy manual.<br>Otherwise you could make more evil than good.<br>I know what I'm telling<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>But ofcourse depends on your skills and background what You could do.<br><br>Remember: You need to hone cylinders, if you don't want the ultimate oilburner like is mine FZR now.<br><br>Wish you lucky hand Pete<br>P.S.-There is lot of info with all sections and so like I..READ...READ...READ <p></p><i></i>

Good on you for having the balls to take it on, but a few words of advice:<br> Get a manual apart from showing you the procedures it also contains vital specs like bore measurements, ring grooves,gudgeon pin etc.<br>Don't take any short cuts ie pull the motor out and do it on the bench where you have room to move.<br>Make sure you have the tools to do the job - you will need a full tool set.<br>Know what you are taking on, this job involves some fairly major work.<br>While you are at it when the head is off pull all the valves and check the guides and give it a valve grind as well which means you will need to reset all your valve clearances and there are 20 of them that alone is a time consuming job.<br>Don't mess around with sealant on old gaskets buy new gaskets for everything.<br>And probably most important don't undo a bolt on the engine until it is spotless and I mean you should be able to eat off it, dirt and dust are the biggest enemy of an engine,every thing that goes back in to your motor should be spotless don't assemble pistons,rings, valves etc with greasy fingers.<br>Lastly try and find someone to help you who has some experience.<br>I've been an auto mechanic for 15 years and have seen some horrendous @#%$ ups by people who took on jobs they shouldn't have even contemplated.<br>Don't be put off just do every thing in order and write it all down as you strip the motor, because anyone can strip a motor it's the putting back together thats the hard part.<br>Good luck let me know how you go<br>fzrnut<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

<br>Thanks for the advice fellas.<br>I'll let you know how I get on.<br><br>The first obstacle is to find somewhere to do it (I don't have a garage.)<br>I bought a Haynes so I can assess what additional tools I am going to need and try and get a feel for if I feel confident enough to do it.<br>The trouble is, I use my bike everyday, my second bike is off the road and I cannot be without wheels for more than a weekend as I won't be able to get to work.<br>I would have to take a long time to do the job as I will be feeling my way. Tricky....................<br>But still, with the amount of oil the bike is using, I can't afford to not do the job either.<br><br>Thanks again. <p></p><i></i>

Well I know where your at, this is an all too familiar story. This is the procedure I've gone through, and I've done it quite a few times:<br><br>-Pull the engine: The manual says it all, however, I will recomend that you get a factory Yamaha manual, much easier, for the whole procedure!<br>-Pop the cam chain if your getting a new one from Tsubaki or just keep tensioned as to not skip a tooth.<br>-Pull the Head, clean it, and send it away to get worked over, possibly Stage I if you can afford it and let the pros grind and trim metal.<br>-Buy a set of Weisco or same quality pistons, bring the pistons and your sleeve block down to your favorite machine shop and have the gugs bored over to fit and matched, around $25.00 per hole.<br>-Install new pistons to according con rod with new pistonsand clips.<br>-Install block with all new gaskets, THIS IS FUN, TRUST ME!<br>- Get head back, install, remember the cam chain never moved a tooth right?<br>-Degree the cams, the cats meow for the 5 valve (unfortutely it costs $60.00 in parts and 4 hours of labor. Also you need the kit (very spendy and complex mathmaticla calculating required or engine go SPLAT! This is all concurrent of the install procedure, not to mention the whole new valve shim procedure, WHAT A PAIN!!!!. <br>- Once you have gone through the whole "pulling the cams procedure" about 5 times, it's easy, but if you didn't yell a lot and thought it was a breeze, You should apply at NASA or Lockeed Martin.<br>- You checked everything right? EVERYTHING, THIS MEANS LIFE OR DEATH FOR YOU NEW INVESTMENT OF $$$$ ?????<br>-Install engine<br>-Break in with much care as to not destroy your investment.<br>- Oil change and recheck of valve clearance prior to take off (Last saftey RPM Zone period)<br>-BLAST OFF, all that know the difference will say, OH YES!<br><br>I have done both personal and customers bikes too many times. This procedure is to be done @ own risk and liability and the chances of screwing up if you don't know what you're doing are enless, I mean endless kurplunk, Fubar, Up the creek w/ no paddle near the Naigra falls, Angola nebie, DO you have any idea how expensive, screw ups. Have a nice day.<br>CHUCK D. <p></p><i></i>