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Slides not opening

Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 7:29 am
by Smokin Cache
What could cause carb slides no to open? They move free by hand. When they are pushed in by hand it appears as though they squirt gas into carbs.<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Smokin <p></p><i></i>

Re: Slides not opening

Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 11:51 am
by FZRDude
Have you checked for a broken/frayed cable or holes in the diaphrams? Just guessing here.<br><br>Tim <p></p><i></i>

Slides not opening

Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 1:18 pm
by Smokin Cache
The carbs were went through by a Yamaha dealer. It was ran about 2 days and turned on its side by the P.owner. That was about a month ago. It really hasn't been ran since. When I got I found that the choke cable bracket was broken and must have been jerked pretty hard in the lay over. The plungers were stuck out. I am not sure which line you are refereeing to. I can't find any that go to the diaphram. side of the carbs. Also its all of them not just one. This leads me to think its a line also or at least some common to all carbs. Are all the carbs the same on the 88' it seems that maybe they are paired alike 1and3 and 2and4. BTW FZRDUDE I like the bike nice pic. thanks for the help.<br><br><br>Jason <p></p><i></i>

slide

Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2004 2:48 pm
by indymorg
you do reallies they dont react until about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle <p></p><i></i>

1 & 2 appear fine

Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2004 6:57 pm
by Smokin Cache
Although I don't really know what I am looking at 1 & 2 look like they are working fine, 3 does not move at all and 4 seems sluggish. I can see some pretty deep scaring on the needle in 3. Which kinda bothers me since the dealer just went through the carbs. All in all the motor probably has 2 hours on it since carb job.<br><br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Jason <p></p><i></i>

Re: 1 & 2 appear fine

Posted: Sat Feb 28, 2004 11:42 pm
by ChuckD
Check Daiphrams for damage as well. You got a junked up fuel system. No big deal, just requires some patience, carb cleaner, black bucket, and possibly new float bowl gaskets, they're cheap if you know where to get them. You may also have to reaset float height and sync carbs after cleaning to ensure all is perfect. Then you most likely should change out fuel filter and maybe lines. While it's drained and apart, (especially you 87-88 owners, all those hoses to have a side mount petcock) you can clean the tank screen, or use a bit (and I mean a bit, this stuff will eat rubber if you overdo it!!) Chevron Techron Fuel System Treatment/ Cleaner. This is also a the only "genie in a bottle" that works, but only to clean reside, not disolve varnish. The bottom of the needles, and the angle grinds on them as well, get bits of varnish and cause improper fuel/ air mixture. It is important to maintain your fuel system to optimize performance and longevety of your bike. It seems you may be going at it yourself, so If you get familiar with it, drain the float bowls, pull the airbox and carbs. Bring the carbs down to your knowledgeable mechanic and ask if they can do a thorough, without splitting them off of the rail, clean and inspect of your carbs and set of float height. Once done, you can slap them back in with your new fuel filter in place, your lines changed or cleaned with carb cleaner, Air box (filter was inspected and replaced with nice new K&N if needed?) and tank (or aux fuel supply if possible). Remember to cycle the fuel pump through the da da da da, da, da until it goes glug, glug , glug, glug. If your battery is weak, put it on the charger (2amp, or "CRank postion if firing briefly), and if wanted pull plugs from back of headlights to save juice. Now you should enjoy life with clean carbs, clean filters and open road. Oh, and don't forget to replug headlights<br>CHUCK D. <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub28.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherho ... hood>Chuck D</A> at: 2/28/04 9:44 pm<br></i>