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Tatty wheels are like tatty shoes - they let the whole package down, so I want to have my RU's wheels redone......<br><br>OK, looking at this, it seems obvious! Just undo the bolts and remove the disc from the wheel and likewise when it comes to putting them back together.<br><br>But from experience is there any advice out there to make sure this goes smoothly?<br><br>Much Thanks <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

I usually use a hex bit for a ratchet, gives you a better grip and less chance of killing the allen screw.<br><br>If your having your wheels done, find a place local to you that chemically strips the wheel, I have one local called Commando, the bloke there does me 2 wheels for £10, you usually find someone will do a cash job for you in places like these. Same with powder coaters, if you just go to a bike shop or bike related place you'll get ripped off. You will also need a new set of wheel bearings.<br><br>Just having another set done now, cost £10 to strip, £20 for p/coat and laquer and £40 for new bearings.<br><br>Rob<br> <p></p><i></i>

Rob!!<br><br>Thats good, I was quoted locally £120 for the pair all in, excluding new bearings - I just found out that I need my fork legs replaced because of severe pitting, so it feels like someone just cut a whole in my pocket <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :\ --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/ohwell.gif ALT=":\"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> thats £150!!! My missus is going to kill me when (if) she finds out....<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

SimonV, I was going to say consider having your tubes titanium-nitrited(sp), but then I saw the WIFE thing at the end. Yeah I know it is a little costly but you can't beat the duribility. Approx. $300 USD. The price is the only thing that turned me away at this time. I will consider it more down the road.<br><br>Tim <p></p><i></i>

hope you dont have the crap i had, most of the bolts were corroded in. so the Allen socket just rounded the bolt out <p></p><i></i>

Phew - nice and easy, no bolt problems, no rounded heads, all the discs marked up so they go back on the same way they came off i.e. the same place! now to find somewhere locally that ain't going to cost me and arm and a leg to paint! only thing left is the removal of the bearings..... <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :\ --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/ohwell.gif ALT=":\"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> advice????<br><br>Ride Safe <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

Rob,<br><br>Good news, word of mouth led me to a local(ish) firm that will do each wheel for £30!! thats half the price of everyone else!! I'm a happy boy <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br><!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

Simon,<br><br>Ah, the power of a few quid cash eh? I've found that in nearly ever workshop/factory there will always be someone up for doing the job for pound notes...no questions...lol.<br><br>When taking the bearings out, I use a long drift, through the wheel and tap them out, going round the outer race gradually. I also always replace the bearings, never refit the old ones unless you want to do it twice..<br><br>I you have access to a press, I would recomend pressing them in, if not get some all thead or a long bolt with nuts and washers, use the old bearings on top of the new and pull them in gradually. I would NOT recommend the hammer method. Not only can you end up with a knackered bearing and have to do the job again, how would you like to find out it's knackered at 150mph?<br>Aint worth it. Trust me, I'm a truck mechanic at a main dealership (not telling you the make...lol).<br><br>Rob <p></p><i></i>

Well no matter what method you use, use it against the outer shells of the bearing not the inner as you are pulling the balls into the race. If you push against the outer this can’t happen. Warm the area & freeze the bearing.<br><br>Oh yeah they aren’t cheap, big bearings, but don’t reuse them, I can’t see how you’d get them out without damage. There is also some concern that the temp of powder coating baking may be detrimental to ally wheels. Road ones are probably heavy enough not to bother them. Mine are powdered.<br> <p></p><i></i>

Rob, F5<br><br>Thanks for the advice, I'd already planned to get new bearings regardless of cost, not known when (if at all) the existing bearings have been replaced and the thought of reusing them after whacking them makes my stomach roll. Someone suggested taking note of the bearing number and buying them through a specialist bearing supplier as this will be cheaper than my local Yamaha spares centre.... comments?<br><br><!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

We used to use a firm called Alpha Bearings, Blackheath, Halesowen, they did supply good quality kit at the right price, they would match your bearing from pattern or with race dimensions. Yeah, not had a bad experience with aftermarket one's, my one mate Paul uses them in his Blade, and get through them like he's shelling pea's, but thats 'cause he's a wheelie merchant not the bike or bearings fault. The pattern ones he's using are lasting the same as the origional.<br><br>The OE bearings probably cost so much as they've been shipped round the world half-a-dozen times before you get it.<br><br>F5, as for re-using bearings, I've seen it done, and I don't put it past anyone now. Did cost the lad when they siezed and the bike went down...<br><br>Not had any problems with powder-coated wheels.<br><br>Rob. <p></p><i></i>