Brakes

Want the specs for a valve adjustment? Can you provide tips for bleeding brakes? Please use this section.
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drexyl0
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 1:06 pm

Brakes

Post by drexyl0 »

Hi everyone. I have just found this fantastic site and I've got to say, I didn't realise there were so many Genny fans out there. I bought my '88 1000 last July after a break from riding of some 12 years, I bought an older machine to keep the insurance down, but have grown to love my bike and wouldn't give it up for anything. Finding the "Brotherhood" was the icing on the cake. Rock on.<br>I have a question. My front brakes squeal when I slow down. The embarrassment is killing me! I recently took the calipers off and cleaned them with a solvent brake cleaner and toothbrush (the missus was furious when I gave it back to her!!!). But my brakes still squeal. I'm thinking maybe I could've done a better job now, so I want to drain my brakes, strip the calipers right down and go to town on them. Can anyone recommend a bleeding kit that will be best for the task and not cost more than around £30 and where I can get it from (preferably in the UK)?<br>Many, many thanks<br><br>Carleton <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://b7.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhood. ... drexyl0</A> at: 4/20/04 11:12 am<br></i>

F5
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Post by F5 »

Bleeding kit, piece of clear tube, 8mm spanner, bottle. Takes a while sometimes to get all the fluid through, try cracking the master cylinder bango open & pumping there with a rag wrapped around it then nipping it back up again, squeeze lever in, open close, repeat. Then work your way down. Check all fittings tight.<br><br>Yes they do need stripping & a good cleanout, Pump the pistons out, take the seals out & clean the channels they live in they get caked up. Once devoid of rubber seals brake clean the callipers. Inspect seals real careful like, if there is anything you don’t like replace them.<br><br>I use that plastic scotchbrite pads on the pistons to remove rust.<br><br>Make sure the pad pins are smooth & deglaze the pads & the discs with some sand paper then brakeclean the discs. Clean the ‘anti squeak plates’ if they are still there, A tiny amount of hi temp copper grease on the back of the plates, don’t use normal grease.<br><br>Once this is done & new fluid pumped in they should be good. Every so often pump the pistons out a bit & use a thin long piece of rag to shoe shine the grime off.<br><br> <p></p><i></i>

Exupilot
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.

Post by Exupilot »

Exellently put F5, couldnt have said better.<br><br>Yam brakes do have a habbit of caking up inside the seals, also check the pad face, if it's glazed lightly go over it with a flat file (NOT emery or wet and dry), or better still replace them. If the previous owner was a muppet, he may not have took it easy and bedded new pads in.<br><br>Hope this helps<br><br>Rob <p></p><i></i>

drexyl0
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Re: .

Post by drexyl0 »

Thanks for the advice. I spent most of sunday stripping the callipers down (after bleeding the brake fluid out obviously), and you were right. The seal channels were full of sh!t!!! I used masses of cleaner to get them looking like new again, cleaned off all the brake dust that had built up over everything and reassebled them as carefully as possible. They look all shiny and new now. BUT THE NAFFIN' SQUEEK'S STILL THERE!!!!! What have I missed? The pads are fairly new(I replaced them myself) and I took time to bed them in. They weren't glazed when I checked them a few weeks ago, and still aren't now. So what is it, why do my brakes still squeal, why can't I JUST. STOP. THEM. SQUEALING??? sniff <p></p><i></i>

F5
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Post by F5 »

Were there anti squeal plates behind the pads or were they missing? Did you apply (a real small smear) of hi temp grease to the back of the pad?<br>Perhaps a tiny bevel on the leading edge of the pad may help. How tight are the pads in the calliper, can they move around a lot if the calliper is a bit baggy.<br> <p></p><i></i>

drexyl0
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Re: .

Post by drexyl0 »

I used just enough copper grease to coat the back of each pad. They are the four piston callipers, and according to my Haynes manual don't have anti squeal shims (only the six piston callipers do). The pads all seem fairly tight inside the callipers, I couldn't detect any play. Thanks for your help. <p></p><i></i>

F5
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Re: .

Post by F5 »

How about that! Just had a look on Yam’s site at your model & there is no pad squeal plate. They rely on the upper one to help with that. Try putting a bit more tension by bending that upper spring plate, after that I’m out of good ideas aside from a pad compound change. <p></p><i></i>

drexyl0
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Re: .

Post by drexyl0 »

What's the difference between cintered and non-cintered brakes (uncintered, anticintered, decintered, excintered???)? I think mine are one of the not-cintered variety, is one type softer than the other, and if so, which is better? please bear with me, I've been out of this game a long time and my knowledge, whilst improving, is a bit poo. <p></p><i></i>

F5
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Re: .

Post by F5 »

Sintered pads contain metallic particles & tend to work better in the rain etc. Kevlar ones are very easy on the discs but are very ho-hum. Std are very expensive but tend to work best. Most brands do a few compounds, maybe its time to try something different. I’ve never tried Carbon Loriane(sp?) but they get good write ups. <p></p><i></i>

akirasan
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brake squeal

Post by akirasan »

I think the squeal depends on the type of pad used EBC are cheap but are not that good and make a noise. Go for a set of Dunlopads. They instantly improved my brakes and leave no brake dust.<br>Welcome to THE site on the web. <p></p><i></i>

ChuckD
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Location: Missoula, MT

Re: brake squeal

Post by ChuckD »

Cintered for the front, kev for the back. I would never recomend the kevs is the front, they take to long to get good temp, and then they don't have anywhere the initial grab comparred to sintered metallic. I like Galfer, Ferodo and EBC's just fine, but it all depends on your choice and availability. The price dif in the US is $26.00 per set for kev, $33.00 for Sintered Metallic. Of course, the front brake lines should be changed. By now, any stock rubber brake line that has been on the bike fro 10 years is shot and flexing. SS lines will make the world of difference. Then you get into brake upgrades....<br><br>CHUCK D. <p></p><i></i>

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