'88 FZR1000 Front end Swap To '03 R1

[barneyfzr600]

Anybody know about swapping a '88 FZR1000 to the '03 front end. Came across a complete front end thats begging me to use it!!!!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

[fj1289]

I have put a 99 R1 front end on an 89 FJ1200. <br><br>I don't think you are going to find a step-by-step how to. If you have good mechanical knowledge and can think your way through some problems and are willing to do some fabrication - then go for it!<br><br>Some quick tips and ideas<br>- do a search on various search engines - something like: R1 fork swap. The best I found was a guy on the TRX Yahoo group who put an R1 front end on his TRX. Lots of photos and info.<br>- I have also seen a writeup or two on swapping the R1 fork to an R6.<br>- R1 front end does not have a speedometer drive - nor is the front wheel set up to install one easily. Probably easier to adapt an R1 dash panel and fab a new way of producing a signal. There was a thread on this in the tech section a while ago I started because I wanted to see how feasible it was.<br>- Also, the Yamaha parts fiche lists the wrong wheel bearing for the 99 R1. It listed a bearing for a 20mm axle I think - that could have been accomodated by simply swapping the bearings out. But, in reality, it is a special sized bearing for a 22 mm axe and has an uncommon outside diameter.<br><br>Now on to the tips:<br>- I am actually using an 88 FZR 1000 rim with the setup. It included a bit more fabrication than I am happy with and will soon try to use a Thunderace (YZF1000 front rim - they are hard to find and expensive though!!!). R1 has a huge 22 mm axle. I used a cut-down REAR axle bolt from an FJ1200 and had a press-fit bushing made for the end so the right fork leg would clamp to it. The threads on the axle are a perfect fit for left fork leg. I then swapped bearings to to accomodate the 20mm FJ axle. <br>- I had to thin the left fork leg to accomodate the speedo drive I had machined out to fit the larger FJ rear axle. Also, a right side spacer had to be fabbed to correctly center the rim.<br>- Since I am using the FZR rim, the rotor spacing is slightly different and had to clearance the inside of the brake calipers very slightly to keep them from rubbing on the disk. It is OK with slightly used pads - with more worn pads, I may be in danger of overextending the pistons on the inside edges of the calipers. A better fix would be to machine approx. 1mm from either the outside edge of the mounting lugs on the calipers, or from the inside edge of the mounting lugs on the fork legs. Tough call - calipers are cheaper if you screw it up, but if you modify the fork legs you have fewer "non-stock" peices to replace if you have an accident (of course the brake calipers are fairly safe in most accidents)<br>-The R1 steering stem is very slightly larger in the lower triple clamp than other Yamaha stems. Best solution is the have the R1 stem cut and machined to fit the FZR frame. Old stems were very brittle steel and could not reliably have new threads cut into them - but the R1 stem is ALUMINUM! and machines quite well. I think the FZR steering head bearings are a direct fit on the stem (the FJ ons were!)<br><br>If you don't care about the speedometer drive - go with the R1 rim and save a LOT of work!!!!!!! There is a very good speed made for enduro bikes that gets used on quite a few streetfighers that is reasonably priced and operates similary to a bicycle speedometer - this one is a bit larger and has several more functions, is back lit for night riding, etc.<br><br>If you really want to keep the mechanical speedo drive - you have to either pony up for the Thunderace rim (which may cost more used than you will pay for the R1 forks!) or fight the caliper spacing issues with the FZR rim. I used FJ rotors (same diameter as R1 rotors) so the calipers bolted directly to the forks like stock. If you use the larger diameter FZR rotors - you will need to fab some caliper adaptors - which will allow you to address the spacing problem with the rotors.<br><br>My results? A 500 plus pound bike with a cool front end that is completley stable at 135+ mph, has great brakes, has modern cartridge dampning components, and has lots of parts availability to tune the forks. <br><br>Good luck, and be sure to pass on you experiences - both the good and bad so others can learn - Chris <p></p><i></i>

[barneyfzr600]

Thanks Chris, it seems like i'll just get in over my head and let the bike sit cuz I got lazy. I'am mechanically inclined but, thats just more than I want to get into to. Thanks for the much needed help!!!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

[fj1289]

If you are willing to do without a speedo (or willing to add the enduro one) it can be very straight forward - basically having the steering stem reworked. You may have to work a bit to get the ignition switch and steering lock to work as well - or lose the steering lock too (use a disc lock to keep someone from roling it away). Then you basically use the entire R1 front end - forks, triple clamps, clip-ons, axle, wheel, spacers, fender,brakes, etc.<br><br>Once you start modifying, you'll get addicted! <p></p><i></i>

[barneyfzr600]

What about the YZF600 front end? Would it be any easier? <p></p><i></i>

[fj1289]

Let me do some checking - I think it is a direct bolt on using the '88 FZR1000 triple clamps. You'll want the forks, axle, fender, rim, and brakes (both calipers and rotors). The advantage is the YZF forks are a modern cartridge design (BE CAREFUL! I think the first 1 or 2 years they were produced were dampner rod style forks - stick to the later models to be sure). <br><br>For some screwball reason, on eBay anyway, the YZF600 stuff is about three times more expensive than R1 or R6 parts! I'm looking for a set myself right now for an '88 FZ750 project.<br><br> <p></p><i></i>

[barneyfzr600]

Thanks Chris!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

[dragracer1951]

<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>Ever thought of having the triple clamps bored to fit the R1 forks?<br>Just a thought<br>Jim <p></p><i></i>

[barneyfzr600]

Actually, I heard that on most lower triple, you could just press out the stem and press in the FZR1000 stem. I'm gonna look for a YZF600 or R1 lower triple and try it out!!!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :evil --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/devil.gif ALT=":evil"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

[fj1289]

1. The R1 forks are 50mm at the top - you can't bore out the 87/88 triple clamp that far - there just isn't that much metal!<br><br>2. Like I said in the previous posts, and you can also read about from the guy tht posted the excellent write-up on swapping the R1 forks to a TRX 850 -- the stem for the R1 is slightly larger where it goes into the R1 lower triple clamp. In other words, you don't "press" the FZR stem into the R1 lower triple - IT WILL BE LOOSE - not even a slip fit, it is wobbly. One solution is to epoxy the FZR stem into the R1 lower triple -- that is going to make it a real bitch to change the steering stem bearings in the future. I don't like that solution. I dirlled and pinned mine. I don't like that solution either - it doesn't wobble or have any other issues (even at 130+ mph), I just don't think it is a professional solution. That's why I strongly recommend pressing out the R1 stem, take it and our FZR stem to a good machinist, and have him modify the R1 stem to match the length and sized for the upper bearing. The result would be a very professional, OEM quality solution with no problems, drawbacks, or bad compromises. Once I get the correct rim and spacing for the brakes, I plan to get another R1 stem and have it machined properly.<br><br><br>3. I'm pretty sure - but have not done it myself nor had someone I know do it - that the YZF600R lower triple will take the FZR stem just like stock. That might not be necessary though, I think (but again can't swear to it) the YZF600R stem will work well in the FZR steering head. <br><br>Give it a try and find out for sure! Don't bugger up your stock stuff and you can slap it back on if you hit too big of a problem. I was lucky and had a spare FJ frame given to me that I was able to do the mock-up on and keep riding (good thing since it was my only transpo at the time!) <br><br>In the end, what do you really want? Better quality suspension and almost stock appearing? Then go with the YZF600R front end (96 and later are the cartridge forks - don't bother with the 95 dampner rod forks). Or do you also want the WOW factor that goes along with the upside down front end (especially on an older bike)? Go with the R1 front end, get the stem machined, and do without a speedo (or adapt the enduro).<br> <p></p><i></i>

[barneyfzr600]

Chris, you just got my heart racing just way too fast! I wanted a modern front end with the options of tuning it. I really just want the best of both handling and looks. Thanks for all the info you've passed on<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :smokin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smokin.gif ALT=":smokin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>