EXUP Worldwide

Does anyone have a factory YZF 750 SP or FZR 750R engine?<br>How many were made?<br>I'm very interested in knowing more about them, configuration etc. Also of interest are kit parts for the engines of these bikes. Anyone have lists of the kitparts for these bikes? <p></p><i></i>

The boys and girls at Yamaha were always trying to build a better bike. The good news being that the FZR plattform was passed down to the YZF family as well. There are several custom hybridabilities between them, but it all depends on what you are looking for. Browse the older Forum topics and you'll find a library of info regarding your intrest. Once you've gotten an idea for the settup you can go from there. Good Luck, it's a fun and adventurous door you're opening, not to mention spendy. I think I've spent more on my older bikes than most people spend on a brand new one. However, there is a bliss in custom creations.<br>Chuck D. <p></p><i></i>

Thanks for your answer and good luck wish Chuck D!<br><br>As you say it's fun but spendy. Say no more I know!<br>It's also true what you say about old/new bikes. But not that strange really. You have to work harder to keep up with the new bikes.<br> <br>Have you personally got any experience with these bikes? (I wasn't able to find that much information about the OW01/ YZF SP in previous posts.)<br><br>I find these bikes especially interesting because they are singlemindedly built for the purpose of going fast with no compromise for passengers in the setup.<br><br>I own a OW01 racebike (various kit parts on) where I've switched the engine to a 1000 cc from a '93 FZR 1000. The engine is stock right now but I'm thinking about blueprinting it and do some sort of enginework to up the power a bit. At the same time I'm also thinking of using the race prepared gearbox from the 750 engine. <br><br>For this bike I am searching for a real factory OW01 750 cc engine with dry clutch. (I am also interested in a YZF 750 SP factory engine but right now I don't have a YZF bike (or money). I believe these engines were easier to get at the gearbox not having to remove the cylinders etc.) I don't know what kit parts (chassis and engine) that are available for thees bikes. So If anybody knows more about the OW01s/ YZF SPs I'm thankful for your help.<br><br>As another way to loose money in the future you could use a YZF 750 SP chassi and install a 1000 cc engine in that too. A bit similar to the OW01 perhaps.<br><br>Karl <p></p><i></i>

I too have a OWO1 Frame with a FZR 1000 engine in it. I Also modified it to a six speed from the YZF 750 and undercut the gears, 1040 cossworth pistons, Falicon Knife conn rods and Cams. While I was at it, I went to a stage two port and polish on the heads and used Titanium valves. This bike is unbeatable! Hands down! For suspension I used a YZF 750 front end ( Then highly modified it, of course) and Ohlins in the rear. I have three swingarm choices, stock, FZR 1000 and YZF 750 as well. The list goes on, but you get the point. I build custom FZR's and YZF's and I love my job. Running a dry clutch can be a good idea, but I just went to a billet clutch basket and I haven't llooked back since. The only limitations are you imagination and your check book. <br>Talk Soon,<br>Charles <p></p><i></i>

You certainly seem to have a nice job!<br>Are you only working with FZRs/YZFs?<br><br>And your bike must be great to ride! It sounds like you've poured a fair bit of money into that mmmotor! How much hp does that engine produce? Are you using Keihin flatslides? What's your opinion of them? I'm also curious of how the motor feels with a six speed gearbox? Do you have any pictures of this bike? It would be nice to see it! I have pictures I can send.<br><br>To fit a FZR 1000 engine in a OW01 frame the only thing you have to do you is to manufacture a bracket for the front cylinder/frame attachment of the engine that compensates for the different height and angle of the 1000cc cylinders.<br><br>I only used one bolt (as the Bimotas) to locate the engine to the frame through this bracket (where the standard FZR 1000 and OW01 uses two bolts). Question is if one bolt is enough? How have you done?<br><br>My bike is not rideable yet but will hopefully be finished this year.<br><br>When I bought the bike it was already fitted with Öhlins suspension front and rear, Marvic mag. wheels, ISR six piston calipers and discs, kit swing arm (caliper and disc remains on the swingarm when you remove the wheel). So it was a good starting point for the project.<br>Then I've powdercoated the frame, swingarm and wheels black. Bought 39 mm flatslides and a 4-2-1 Ti exhaust. And done some modifications here and there of some parts.<br><br>Minimum to do to get it street ready is to fit lights, bodywork (I want to use Air tech YZF 750 '92 BW, used by Vance & Hines) and set up the carbs. Then I will have to get it registred for street use, hmmm...<br><br>Your turn...<br>Karl <p></p><i></i>

ChuckD, you are braver than I was by running the stock YZF750 trannie in your 1000 motor.<br><br>Sam McDonald, Dave Schlosser, Mark McDade and Kurt Jordan all advised me against using a stock YZF750 trannie in my 1000 motor. Kurt Jordan and Dave Schlosser told me to buy a YZF750 A or B race kit transmission, they would be able to hold up to the FZR1000 motor. I was never able to find one at a "reasonable price".<br><br>Did you have Falicon lighten up your crank? I had them take off three pounds from my FZR1000 crank. They also knife edged the rods and the crank journals and balanced the piston/rods/crank as an assembly.<br><br>Do you have a webpage or a shop you work out of? <p></p><i></i>

I'm the parts manager at a local shop and worked for Yamaha Corp. for a few years and several other dealerships for another few. Began racing Road Atlanta in my teens but had a nasty crash and burn off the track and lost my 2nd tier ride due to down time. I decided to move from down south to the north discovered my winter passion, snow exploits, and have been traveling the southwest and northwest since 94. I've always worked with Yamaha's and began my adventures on a 86 FZ 600 and have been throughout the entire family. Currently the only bike I am riding is my Powdercoated glory, no fancy chrome, just the goods. I never had a problem with the stock tranny, however, I had never ran one for more than two years until the engine or bike found a new home. Currently Cosmo is running a big bore 1040 and stock YZF 6 speed so we'll see what happens. I still have the Yamaha part # for the race tranny, but it retailed for I believe $3,000, and that was in 96. I'm in the process of buliding another Yamamonster engine out of my first 89 1000 engine. Naturally I will have the crank "Supercranked by Falicon, including their clutch basket( with stock, yes stock clutch pac, it behaves better on the street and I'm not going to take this one out to the track). By having the crank work done and better con rods, you eliminate almost all stock rotating mass, and replace it with lighter, stronger, parts that will ensure that all of your money does not go to waste. Cosmo is a good friend and customer at my shop, the owner is a die hard Honda fan ( and Cessna guru) so it's kind of funny that he has now thanks to my history, become a FZR specialist. You gotta love aircraft mechanics that become bike buiders. I specialize in Yamaha's but am forced, actually it's not that bad, to work on all makes. <br>As per Spiderfarmers request for a Dry clutch, I must admit that I do not know of one at at this time. It's become harder and harder to locate parts for these bikes, lower fork tubes for a 91-93 are backordered indefinately from Yamaha Corp America and Japan, for example. If I was building a great track bike, I would be on an R1. I have riden a my fare share of the R family and love their ability, but I ride more distance trips now and like the feel of a laxed out FZR or YZF frame over the R1. The real world, AKA real roads with pot holes, rocks, debri, and DEER! requires a whole different dset-up from what I have expeirienced on the track, where you feel secure and safe. I hope that all of you that can will make it to the gathering.<br>Talk later,<br>CHUCK D. <p></p><i></i>

Any idea what kind of internal differences between the FZRs and YZFs?<br><br>I have an overbore kit for a FZR genesis, and want to put it into my thunderace.<br><br>If the only difference is piston weight, then i guess I can have them balanced at a machine shop when i get the bores done.<br><br>Are the piston heights, little end bearings, etc all the same between the models?<br><br>Mick <p></p><i></i>

Its great to see so many people out there with good old OW's<br>I have Hammer racings old bike from the american national endurance champs,theres not that much left standard on it any more. I agree that the best way for more power is to see Falicon.I bought a new yzf1000 crank and had it supercranked coupled with knife rods, 1041 JE pistons big port Ow head,1000 valves, OW kit cams and six speed,Akarpovic taperheader system, and kit igniter.R1 smaR1 blown to the weeds. The bike came with Kosman adjustable triples and ohlins front and rear. I do have another whole 750 spare engine with all kit parts ie, dry clutch, cams, six speed, but found wet clutch nicer to use. Can't sell the engine as Im turning that into another 1040 in the future. As a cnc machinist I may soon make a run of billet clutch baskets for those with that extra power.If you are interested drop me a line.I also have a kit manuel I could photocopy if any one needs part no.s etc. Geoneil@amcom.co.nz<br><!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :smokin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smokin.gif ALT=":smokin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

You certainly have some neat parts on your bike! Great reading on this thread. Keep it up.<br><br>I too have a 1990 OW01 with a fresh FZR1000 engine. It also has some Vance & Hines/factory Yamaha parts (ie. radiator, exhaust, tank, swingarm...) along with 39mm flatslide carbs. The bike isn't finished yet as I'm currently putting on an '02 R1 front end with Racetech internals along with deciding what else to upgrade on it.<br><br>However, I am interested in knowing what exhaust system you installed onto your bike (4-2-1 titanium), whether it's still available and where to get it. It has to clear the kit radiator of course.<br><br>Thanks for your help.<br><br>Gord <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub28.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherho ... bikes69</A> at: 9/10/03 9:56 am<br></i>

There are very manu left that offer exhaust for the FZR 1000. If you are going to toss the exup (many views) than the options get opened, but the OWO1 stock exhaust is the best they ever made and fits on the 1000 no prob. Aftermarket choices are limited to Arrow, Akro, Hindle, and I believe a few other Euro spec Companies. As far as clearance fro the kit rad, you're going to have to get exact measurments from manu and go from there. Good luck on the hunt.<br>CHUCK D. <p></p><i></i>

I just bought an OW01. A UK street model with 5,000KM on the dials. Unfortunately the movers dropped it while shipping it to my house so the kit exhaust is destroyed. I've had no luck finding an exhaust, will one from a YZF750 fit? It has the stock headers and EXUP. I'd like a slip on but would live with a full if I can get one. How well do these bikes respond to stage3 with K&N pod filters? Chuck, I just got factory race manual from ebay, it has kit and oe part #'s in it. Can I still order these parts? Thanks.<br><br>Jason B. <p></p><i></i>

Hi Guys, first let me start by introducing myself:<br><br>I am a 34 year-old engineer with a huge crush on the Yamaha FZR series. I own a '91 FZR1000 for half a year, which has a well-known gearbox problem (2nd and 3rd jump out of gear while accelerating). I can buy an YZF750R 6-speed gearbox at a very reasonable price, and I am thinking about transferring the 5-speed to the 6-speed.<br> <br>I have noticed on the FZR-Forum that you have a lot of experience on this modification. I would be very greatful if you can spare a few minutes to answer a couple of questions about this modification.<br> <br>How easily will the 6-speed fit? I do have all the related gearbox parts, such as primairy and secundairy shafts, shift cam shaft, forks and shift mechanism.<br> <br>How strong is the 6-speed related to the 5-speed FZR1000 gearbox, taken into account the 145 HP my 1000 produces? (I only drive my FZR on the road, not the track).<br> <br>I assume you have the chain ratio altered. Being a close-ratio with a higher end ratio in six, the 6-speed requires a lower end ratio (I thought about replacing the 17/47 gears to a 18/47 ratio) <br> <br>And finally: You mentioned a few times that you have the gears "undercut". What does this mean? <br> <br>(I work as an engineer at a factory which rebuilds industrial gearboxes, and I am designing gearboxes for ships and turbines for more than 10 years, so I do know a few things about gear manufacturing, but "undercutting" is new for me.<br> <br>I would be very greatful if you can answer these questions, so I can decide to buy the gearbox or not.<br> <br>Best regards,<br> <br>Rene van der Werff<br>rvdwerff@zonnet.nl<br>Rotterdam, the Netherlands<br> <p></p><i></i>

Hi Rene!<br><br>I have some answers to your questions,as I read troughout this forum for longer amount of time.<br><br>For gearbox is also good idea to look at oil tube in gearbox.<br>Check for holes in both and compare them.Some peoples mentioned<br>they frying 6th gear from lack of oiling,when using 5 speed emulsion tubes.<br><br>I ask some question about undercutting and flyingcircus<br>have very valuable answers for mine dumb questions.<br>Check for info in 87-88 section topic FZR1000 87...older 87 FZR tranny..<br><br>6speed is basicaly same,only gears is narower to fit case.<br>Main difference is shift dogs.<br>I have 6 speed from 93 YZF750R and it is already unercutted,<br>I wonder from factory.<br><br>Hope this little guidance helps<br>Bye Pete <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub28.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherho ... cracy>Pete Aristocracy</A> at: 1/10/04 6:54 am<br></i>

Now I do know wat was ment by undercutting. I was already aware of the inverse tapered design of the gear shifting dogs, but didn't know this was mentioned as "undercutting". It still raises another question.<br><br>As you guys mention, you have the geardogs undercut by a local machine shop. But are these parts not hardened in any way. I cannot imagine that these shifting dogs do not receive a surface hardening treatment from the factory (such as gas-nitriding or carburizing/hardening). Or is the hardening process repeated after undercutting.<br><br>Thanks for the reply, Rene<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

Hi FZRene,<br>Ok all shift dogs are undercut from the factory. That is to say they are tapered to around 2-3 degrees to help keep them mated at high loads. Further Undercutting is done to increase the angle to 5 degrees for the street and up to 7 degrees for drag racing applications. The best in the industry for this process is Paul Gast of Fast By Gast in Buffalo of all places <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> . Looking at around $300 U.S. for the process.<br>Mike <br> YZF1020@MSN.COM<br> <p></p><i></i>

OK, thanks for the reply boys, but still no answer to my question: Are these shift dogs and the corresponding holes surface hardened or not? If they are hardened, does machining them off not reduce the hardened layer? I am thinking about undercutting them and have them re-hardened by a process called nitriding, which leaves a diamond-hard surface on the geardogs. This makes them much more resistent to wear, which is not uncommon to these parts.<br><br>Help Wanted!!!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

I've never had the hardness checked on the gear dogs to knowfor sure if they have been hardened. Some of the smaller gears within the cluster appear to be heat treated. Most appear to be soft. like many of you, I've had to replace components due to second gear shift dogs rounding over. From what I remember, and going strictly by appearance alone, the second gear dogs did not appear to be hardened, nor surface treated. These are non-synchonous transmissions, so the shift dogs have to endure an impact with every shift. It might not be bad if one component of each complementary pair is heat treated and one is left soft, but if both components are heat treated its probably going to chip. Surface treatments, such as nitriding, create a thin and very hard skin. Its also very brittle, so the impact would definitely move the material under the skin and lead to surface cracking much like a hard boiled egg. In my opinion, the hardness should be in the 40ish Rc range, so that the dogs are tough and fracture resistant. They don't see a lot of rubbing to create a wear problem. They primarily have to endure constant impact which eventually peens the tips round and causes skipping. Under cutting will extend the life and that's all I would recommend doing. <p></p><i></i>