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just checked my valve clearances and thay all got smaller ,is this normal .all ex mesure 0.20mm 7 of inlet measure 0 and rest mesure .05 .dont think they have being done before the bike has 33600 miles on <p></p><i></i>

If they are tightening up on you, it's due to valve/seat wear (recession) being greater than the wear at the lifter/cam lobe.<br><br>Do you know the history of this bike since new? Most of that type of wear happens during break in and it should have been checked by the dealer. <br><br>I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just adjust the valves, syncro the carbs and pay attention to the level of vacuum displayed on the carb sync stix. You could use this to periodically check on the condition of the valve adjustment. If your lash was to tighten up again, it would effectively have a greater amount of cam duration and therefore have a lower reading of vacuum at the same idle speed.<br> <p></p><i></i>

haz anyboby got any shims i need 8,165s 5 170, 1 175 if not how much are that cheers <p></p><i></i>

Jon, can you make a deal with a local Yami shop to leave a deposit on thier shim kit and just take the whole thing with you to do the adjustments? It's worked for me at times in the past to do that. <p></p><i></i>

<br> Shims cost about £3 a piece (new YAMAHA) or in the past I have swapped them with the local dealer for £1 a piece.<br> chris <p></p><i></i>

Hello,<br><br>I am looking at checking the valve clearances on my 1987 fzr750 this coming weekend.<br><br>I haven't seen the insides of the cylinder head yet so i would like to ask guys here who have had more experience with their 20-valve mills...<br><br>What should be the width of the feeler gauges that can fit when taking measurements?<br><br>I already have feeler guages but they are not tapered and I am afraid they might be too wide (around 15mm) to fit and take measurements .<br><br>I'd like to be more prepared with my feeler gauges before opening up the head.<br><br>Thanks.<br> <p></p><i></i>

Welcome to the Brotherhood joboph!!!<br><br>Excellent question that I too, would like the answer.<br><br> <p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... <!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:red;font-family:times new roman;font-size:small;">There are some who call me........Tim?</span><!--EZCODE FONT END--><br><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:white;font-family:times new roman;font-size:small;">Director of Entertainment <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://eddieandthecruisersmc.com" target="top">Eddie & the Cruisers</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--> <br><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:blue;font-family:times new roman;font-size:small;">1994 FZR 1000</span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></p><i></i>

I have a bunch of sets of feeler gages, they're cheap ya know....Cut a set ( of the appropriate sizes) up the middle (length ways) with the tin snips. Works a treat<br><!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :banana --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... ananna.gif ALT=":banana"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>Jim <p></p><i></i>

Good question there, and a standard width feeler guage is too wide. I recently noticed in a Snap on Tools catalog ( or Mac, or Cornwell, I can't really remember which) a set of motorcycle width feeler guages in the popular sizes for bike engine work. Sometimes the prices aren't all that bad when you get a set that's ready to plug & play, even though anyone should excercise due care and caution when feeding thier tool addiction. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

<!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>Sometimes the prices aren't all that bad when you get a set that's ready to plug & play, even though anyone should excercise due care and caution when feeding thier tool addiction. <hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--><br><br><br>I don't have an adiction Bob....<br>Really...<br><br>Jim<br><br><br>Speakin of valves Bob, what did you come up with for valves for John's engine. I have a used set that quite possibily could be ground. If you need them, you can just have em...<br><br>We goin to the Gee Pee<br>We goin to the Gee Pee.... <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... cer1951</A> at: 1/26/05 7:50 am<br></i>

I've got two rebuildable core heads at the moment, possibly three ( meaning no valve stems through the water jackets, seats still in place). <br> At least two of those will need valve replacement, I'm gonna guess Johns project is held up at the moment from him being busy with all that snow, but we havn't finalized anything yet. I need to tear down one more core engine to see if the cylinder head will be save-able. I sure wouldn't turn down a set of useable valves, but I should probably do a full inventory of what I have before asking for spares. I'll get on that soon and post back, so stay tuned and thanx for floating the offer.<br><br><!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>I don't have an adiction<hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :p --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ALT=":p"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br> (And I'm living in denial) <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :| --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/indifferent.gif ALT=":|"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p> <span style="font-family:helvetica; color:blue;font-size:xx-small;">Straight up Geek</span></p><i></i>

Hello Jim,<br><br>Yes, I do plan to cut my feeler gauges just like you said... That is why I was asking for the width that would fit...<br><br>I'd like to ready with the feeler gauges before I open the head.<br><br>Thanks.<br><br>- Jobo<br> <p></p><i></i>

make em about half as wide as they were stock<br>That's what I did<br>Jim <p></p><i></i>

I don't know, but I may have more FZR 1000 Engines lying around than I ever thought. Matt and I may be stocking Stage I heads for sale. If I asked $1200 for a STAGE I Epoxy port and polish w/ serviced valve replacements, would anyone think they could ever fork the money over? Just trying to determine if this seems like a stocking move. I feel that the Brotherhood covers all ages and enthuisest. <br><br>CHUCK D. <p></p><i></i>

chuckd and matt<br><br>is that with stainless valves or oem or.....all replaced or just those in need? <p>-John<br>95 FZR1000<br>90 FZR1000</p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... >jjs777</A>  <IMG HEIGHT=10 WIDTH=10 SRC="http://home.comcast.net/~john.stempien/ ... larger.gif" BORDER=0> at: 1/30/05 10:00 am<br></i>

Hello Guys,<br><br>I finally got to open my valve head yesterday after I got a used timing rotor from a Yamaha XJ from local Yamaha distributor here in Manila sometime last week.<br><br>Unfortunately, a little more than 50% of the intake valves on my bike had clearances less than 0.11mm (I measured 0.8mm on cyl 1 and 4). Exhaust valves are at the limit with most of them at 0.21mm.<br><br>As for my question about the width of the feeler gauges and for the information of everyone, they should be around 5-6mm in width to fit in the cam caps. I grinded my feeler gauges to around half as Jim has advised.<br><br>After getting the camshafts off and noting the existing pad values one by one, I set out to decide which pads I can still swap around and determine which pads I would need.<br><br>I thought I would only be expecting pad values ending in zero or five (i.e. 185, 180), however, I also had pad values that ended in two and eight (i.e. 178, 172).<br><br>At first, I thought of using pad values that would bring the intake clearances to at least 0.11mm, however, I decided to choose pad values that would bring the intake clearances to 0.15mm (+/- 0.01mm) by shuffling pads coming from the exhaust valves.<br><br>Since the exhaust pads are at the limit, I also decided to choose pad values that would bring the exhaust clearances to around 0.27mm (+/- 0.01mm). I wanted to bring the exhaust clearances to around 0.25mm (+/- 0.01mm), however, I would be needed pad values of 168 and 178. Maybe these pads are made of unobtanium.<br><br>Questions:<br><br>1. Any of you guys can help me obtain the following pads?<br><br>170 (3 pieces), 175 (2 pieces), 165 (3 pieces)<br>or<br>170 (3 pieces), 175 (1 piece), 178 (1 piece), 168 (3 pieces)<br><br>-- I had contacted the local Yamaha distributor, unfortunately, they dont have adjusting pads on stock... I also emailed a local parts dealer and I am awaiting response...<br><br>2. Are the adjusting pads used on '87-'88 FZR750/1000s the same as the ones used on '89 and later FZR1000s and FZR600s?<br><br>3. Any comments about my choice of target clearances for intake (0.15mm +/- 0.01mm) and exhaust (0.27mm +/- 0.01mm) valves?<br><br> <p><br>Jobo<br>1987 FZR750<br>(Jap spec)<br>Philippines</p><i></i>

Not sure if bike bandit dot com ships to your part of the world but it may be worth a try <br>as well as Ron Ayres (I think that's the spelling ) powersports<br>Or Chuck D and Matt<br>Or.....<br><br><br>Jim <p></p><i></i>

I'm out of luck... there are no local suppliers here in Manila that have valve pads.<br><br>Can someone please confirm if the valve adjusting pads used on '87-'88 FZR750/1000 is the same as the one used on '89-later FZR1000s? How about on FZR600s?<br> <p><br>Jobo<br>1987 FZR750<br>(Jap spec)<br>Philippines</p><i></i>

not the same number<br><br>87 ( and I assume 8<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START 8) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/glasses.gif ALT="8)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>120 PN 9471-001<br>increments by 5 so <br>125 9472-001<br>through<br>240 9495-001<br><br>I looked at 94 <br>120 10670-001<br>240 10695-001<br><br><br>that was from bikebandit dot com<br>Jim <p></p><i></i>

You need to find an engineering shop <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>I got so pi$$ed off with my local Yamaha dealer that I just ground down the pads I had on a surface grinder at work <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hi --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Waving.gif ALT=":hi"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Any engineering shop worth it's salt will have a surface grinder and it is very easy to do. Just work out the final thickness of each shim and leave the rest to them. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :banana --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... ananna.gif ALT=":banana"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Mark <p></p><i></i>