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Does anyone have any expierience of fitting R1 clocks to older bikes.<br><br> Bikes without the gearbox transducer, i.e. my t'ace....<br><br> Would like to fit a set to my 'fighter and am wondering whats involved/what parts I need, thanks.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rock --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... ock_On.gif ALT=":rock"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

Stuntin...<br><br>Look at this thread for a good discussion. I never did attempt this - that project is on indefinate hold - work, new house 900 miles away, etc...<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :\ --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/ohwell.gif ALT=":\"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Good luck <p></p><i></i>

Stuntinmaynotbeacrime but forgettingthelinkshouldbe!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :stupid --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Stupid.gif ALT=":stupid"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br><br><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://p072.ezboard.com/fexupbrotherhoo ... <!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :banana --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... ananna.gif ALT=":banana"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... >fj1289</A> at: 2/10/05 6:19 pm<br></i>

I've gotten curious about possibly doing this upgrade myself, so I did a little investigation. I checked my 98 R1 manual to review the wiring diagram and the check on all the sensors that feed information in. The following are what I've come up with:<br><br>temp sensor - variable resistance, feeds directly into the gauge unit. <br><br>fuel sensor - resistive (for no spark), feeds directly into gauge cluster. most likely goes through an internal voltage comparator circuit that supplies an on/off output to trip the light and show 'fuel' on the LCD.<br><br>Oil sensor, - switched, feeds directly into the gauge cluster to turn on LED and trigger LCD oil icon.<br><br>neutral switch, high beam, turn signal - feed directly into gauge cluster to light LEDs.<br><br>Tachometer - feeds from ignitor box. Most likely a filtered pulse output from the crank sensor that is normally identical to the signal that is used to trigger spark and determine spark advance. ECU is able to alter the pulse rate to show system faults with throttle postion sensor, fuel sensor, and EXUP system.<br><br>Speedometer - this one is oddly not covered very well in the manual. It's shown in the beginning of the electrical section and identified as a speed sensor that fits into the back of the crank case.<br><br>The bike reviews mentioned that the advance curve changes between the 1st 3 gears and the rest, so this sensor is most likely wired into the Ignitor also.The signal would be used to compare to the input from the crank. The difference in signal frequency between the crank and output shaft would show exactly which gear is being used. <br><br>There is a subcircuit shown as component'22' on the schematic which is most likely the speed sensor input and is wired to both the ignitor and gauge cluster. This sensor is most likely measuring the gear teeth on a specific gear on the output shaft. I'm not sure which one just yet. <br><br>Since the geer teeth are being counted, the pulse frequency is fairly high and would need to be replicated to have correct speed signals. Sounds a little tricky, but it can be done. <br><br>The easiest place to pick that signal up on a bike being retorfitted is at the front wheel where the cable attaches to the speed gear. A magnetic hall effect sensor can be mounted there and the gear can be replaced with either a magnetic disk, or a vaned disk. The actual choice depends on what model sensor can fit in the gear housing.<br><br>CHERRY makes some hall effect sensor that can possibly be used. The possible choices I found in the DIGIKEY catalog are:<br><br>GS100701 - a gear tooth sensor that cost $30.24 <br><br>GS100203 - a gear tooth sensor that's smaller in size, but bigger in price at $52.92<br><br>MP100701 - requires a magnetic field. switches on with the south pole and switches off with the north pole. $24.44<br><br>MP101301 - a snap fit magnetic field sensor similar to above. cheap at $6.08<br><br>GS101202 - this sensor looks very much like the original depicted in the shop manual and is made such that it mounts to a flanged hole and seals with an O-ring.<br><br>The sensor would need to be fed into a frequency multiplier circuit to get the correct speed read out. The easiest way to do this is via a microcontroller which could measure the input and send a frequency output based on a multiplier value. The software could be written such that it allows you to change the multiplier on the fly to calibrate the speedo for your application. This speedo input could be used to wire in the self cancelation feature on the FZR (87, not sure about others).<br><br>This type of conversion can be done, but is not for the laymen. The steps required would be:<br><br>1. obtain a spare gauge cluster, temp sensor.<br><br>2. wire up the gauge cluster and use a frequency generator to determine the pulse frequency/speed relationship.<br><br>3. use the frequency generator to determine the pulse frequency/rpm relationship. may require a frequency conversion circuit also.<br><br>4. pick a sensor, make the magnetic disk to mount in the speedo gear housing.<br><br>5. make the conversion circuit + write the software<br><br>6. draw up a revised schematic of the original.<br><br>7. swap the original wiring into the R1 gauges. Add the additional wiring for the new speed sensor.<br><br>8. swap the temp sensors and wire in.<br><br>Anyone game to try this?<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br> <p></p><i></i>

Holy crap<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ..lol <p></p><i></i>