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Has any of you guess ever had problems with these??<br><br>My local dealer is not happy with them, has seen several cases of seized engines<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ?????<br><br>I've got my cylinder out ready for bore but I'm starting to think twice.<br><br>Any comments would be appreciated.<br> <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>1996 Tace, Braided lines, Akrapovic exhaust, K&N filter, 130BHP on the wheel</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

I set mine up at .0022 clearance and .008 end gap <br>Over 14k miles with no problems <br>152ish rear wheel hp<br><br>Jim<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :cheers --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Cheers.gif ALT=":cheers"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

Hmm.... that's about 0,051mm clearance and 0,2mm end gap.<br><br>I'm guessing Total bore 77,12mm?<br><br>Thanks Jim <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>1996 Tace, Braided lines, Akrapovic exhaust, K&N filter, 130BHP on the wheel</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... Funtexx</A> at: 4/4/05 9:55 am<br></i>

Wiseco makes great stuff: Here is where the problem(s) lay.<br><br>#1) Wiseco REQUIRES hand fitment, hand end gapping, & if required hand filing of the piston ring end gaps. This is precise work. This is very time consuming work. Most owner installed Wiseco Piston kits never see this step performed! Almost anybody can be taught to do this correctly. Almost everyone will do this wrong if they are self-taught. It is not rocket science it is just technique. Unfortunately the current social order seriously undervalues the worth & ability of a Professional Mechanic. Not getting the ring gapping exactly correct leads to an air or water-cooled hand grenade!<br><br>#2) Many do it yourselfers do not realize the importance of the machine work involved. Boring & honing cylinders, particularly in these engines, is a very precise process that cannot be done by just any JIMMY, JOE, BOB & SONS machine shop! Many automotive machine shops do not have the machine tools with sufficient accuracy to perform the tolerances required on these engines. Additionally, Some machine shops do it "their way" instead of the machining clearance & tolerance instructions provided by Wiseco.<br><br>#3) Everything must be measured on assembly. Including deck height & piston crown/ combustion chamber & valve clearances. Once again, it is not an Erector Set. You cannot just take the parts out of the boxes & put it together!<br><br>#4) Lastly there is the Piston (wrist) pin circlips. There is a great deal of technique involved in correctly installing these. Even the Professional Mechanic has to do a dozen or so engines before he or she gets this down.<br><br>So, I'm saying it is not generally a Wiseco quality control problem. I have seen piston kits with missing parts and/or two different types of piston ring sets in one kit. These rig set differences are not un-installable, but rather reflect a constant updating of the engineering.<br><br>Wiseco has had tremendous problems with people not performing the ring gapping step!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :poke --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... e_poke.gif ALT=":poke"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Matt at PSB<br><br> <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... atpsb>Matt at PSB</A> at: 4/4/05 11:10 am<br></i>

Thanks for your input Matt. My piston kit is complete with rings, pins,circlips and gasket in a box directly from Wiseco.<br>So that should be fine, I guess I just need to find the right guess to do the boring and honing. And check everything when it's done.<br><br>Ohh, just located a company who does nothing else but cylinder service. They should get it right. Calling them tomorrow.<br><br>Thanks guess. <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>1996 Tace, Braided lines, Akrapovic exhaust, K&N filter, 130BHP on the wheel</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

I have a friend that tells me that ring gap is not as important as you may think...he's set up motors with ZERO end gap and found that the cyl expands faster than the rings...<br>I have another friend that works for Bessimer Cooper and he says the same thing. Also the difference between .010 and .25 ring gap amounts to maybe 20 lbs of crank pressure. The leakdown is a lot worse though and the blowby is a lot worse too...<br><br>Now "I" ain't going to set up my motors like that, but they have some evidence to support their claims...<br><br>I certainly agree with Matt though that the piston clearance needs to be right and that not very many folks know or care how to set up ring gap...<br><br>Just my .02<br><br>Jim<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :cheers --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Cheers.gif ALT=":cheers"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

i have never seen an 1040 wiseco engine blown. only blown engines i ever get to see are the ones badly assembled with bad tools and without knowledge.<br>proper mech will have no trouble with wisecos. plus the bore must be done right. we have an local "oldschool" machine shop here with an +60year old guy doing the cylinders and he actually said that he bores all forged piston cylinders tighter at the base of cylinderpipe and a small bit wider at top. the car people and even topfuel guys use his services, and no problems what i have heard of. he explained that the "tighter" at base issue leads to the piston not colliding on the cylinder walls at lowest point, thus creating less vibration and heat. cant say if this is true. all i can say for shure that i havent heard bad things of the wis1040 set. <p></p><i></i>

<!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>we have an local "oldschool" machine shop here with an +60year old guy doing the cylinders and he actually said that he bores all forged piston cylinders tighter at the base of cylinderpipe and a small bit wider at top. the car people and even topfuel guys use his services, and no problems what i have heard of. he explained that the "tighter" at base issue leads to the piston not colliding on the cylinder walls at lowest point, thus creating less vibration and heat. cant say if this is true. all i can say for shure that i havent heard bad things of the wis1040 set. <hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--><br><br><br>Same way I do fuel motors.<br>General rule of thumb is .003 to .004 if ring end gap for every inch of bore.<br>Fuel motors like a bit more than that though. <br>Even more important than the end gap is the side and back clearance <br><br>Jim<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :cheers --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Cheers.gif ALT=":cheers"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

Speaking of drag racing, I've located a guy who is building drag bikes. He has build a 6 cylinder drag bike, head from a honda CBX, the rest is home made. He is running in the european championship, but I don't know witch class.<br>He also knows about this tight at base stuff and guarantees that I'll have no problems at all<br>I got a tour in his garage and he is the chosen one. Man he's got alot of nice stuff in there.<br>So, I'm going bigbore.<br><br>Thanks again for all your knowledge<br><br><!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :cheers --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Cheers.gif ALT=":cheers"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> Daniel <p><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>1996 Tace, Braided lines, Akrapovic exhaust, K&N filter, 130BHP on the wheel</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

OK, This looks like a consensus to me: Wiseco is not the problem(s) here.<br><br>Matt at PSB<br> <p></p><i></i>