Ignition wires
Ignition wires
How to change ignition wires?? I dont want change coils, only plug caps and wires, is it possible??;)
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KontoBoy
- Help!!! I need a LIFE!!!
- Posts: 579
- Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 8:43 pm
- Location: McLean, Virginia
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I just did mine on my '97 YZF 750 last week to accomodate relocated coils.
On the spark plug cap it is easy--they just screw out of the wire.
On the coil side it was a different question--there was a clip on the wire and the wire was sealed in with some kind of silicone sealant. The clip has two tabs that slide down the side of the wire into the coil--it looks like it is there to center the wire in the hole--the hole in the coil is larger than the wire.
I couldn't save the clips--just pried them out.
That silicone sealant is pretty tough too--just pull like an SOB and they will come out.
Then try to clean some of that sealant out. I used some small files, especially around the center contact pin in the coil.
For wire I used DYNA DW-600 ($16 plus shipping) carbon suppression. I couldn't reuse my plug caps with the copper stranded stuff--they wont screw back in. And the V&H PowerPak I was trying to use said use suppression core wire to cut electrical interference. Seemed like a good idea.
The wire comes with plug caps but they are a bit short for my head--I cut them off and just used the wire.
On the coil side the wire just presses back in the hole onto the contact pin. try to keep it centered and press hard to get it seated as far down as you can--should got down about 1/4 inch onto the pin.
The wire diameter is a bit smaller than the hole in the coil. I squished a little sealant in, then stripped the protective tubing off my old wires and used about an inch to slip between the wire and coil to take up the remaining gap.
The remainder of the protective tubing I put back on in potential friction areas--for me that where it goes around the steering head and over the radiator.
Screwing the plugs caps into the carbon core is no problem. Don't forget the rubber rain caps and 1-2-3-4 labels if you still have them.
Zip tie in place.
Now--after I did this it fired right up. I still haven;t had it to the track to test it--that's next week. I don't expect any problems.
Kontoboy.
On the spark plug cap it is easy--they just screw out of the wire.
On the coil side it was a different question--there was a clip on the wire and the wire was sealed in with some kind of silicone sealant. The clip has two tabs that slide down the side of the wire into the coil--it looks like it is there to center the wire in the hole--the hole in the coil is larger than the wire.
I couldn't save the clips--just pried them out.
That silicone sealant is pretty tough too--just pull like an SOB and they will come out.
Then try to clean some of that sealant out. I used some small files, especially around the center contact pin in the coil.
For wire I used DYNA DW-600 ($16 plus shipping) carbon suppression. I couldn't reuse my plug caps with the copper stranded stuff--they wont screw back in. And the V&H PowerPak I was trying to use said use suppression core wire to cut electrical interference. Seemed like a good idea.
The wire comes with plug caps but they are a bit short for my head--I cut them off and just used the wire.
On the coil side the wire just presses back in the hole onto the contact pin. try to keep it centered and press hard to get it seated as far down as you can--should got down about 1/4 inch onto the pin.
The wire diameter is a bit smaller than the hole in the coil. I squished a little sealant in, then stripped the protective tubing off my old wires and used about an inch to slip between the wire and coil to take up the remaining gap.
The remainder of the protective tubing I put back on in potential friction areas--for me that where it goes around the steering head and over the radiator.
Screwing the plugs caps into the carbon core is no problem. Don't forget the rubber rain caps and 1-2-3-4 labels if you still have them.
Zip tie in place.
Now--after I did this it fired right up. I still haven;t had it to the track to test it--that's next week. I don't expect any problems.
Kontoboy.
A friend had a bike come into his shop, was misfiring at revs. Had recently just changed to some pretty yellow HT leads. Seemed like a good idea at the time.
Back on with the Copper stranded stuff & it was back to normal. Bike ignitions aren’t that over spec’d that they can handle the silicon stuff it seems. . .
Back on with the Copper stranded stuff & it was back to normal. Bike ignitions aren’t that over spec’d that they can handle the silicon stuff it seems. . .
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