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Figured it was time for some PM work on my 400/600 Hybrid and add a few upgrades. Got some parts for it, Barnett clutch n springs, Factory shift kit, V&H pipe, pod filters, plugs, oil n filter, new shock, had the forks reworked, getting ready to put on that swinger i had, yada yada.

Any way, I read somewhere that it was a good idea to drop the pan and check and clean the screen. Since I had the stock pipe off, I thought, Sure, why not? So I drained the oil n dropped the pan. Everything looks fine. Typical debris, no sweat. Pulled the screen, saw a little bit of stuff, figured it was from clutch, rinsed it out, out comes 2 teeth! F^@KKK...('')

Now I am worried. I put it in high gear and bumped it, looking at all the teeth. I'm bumping and bumping, checking and checking. So far so good, I'm starting to think, hopfully they're from the starter gears. It's been makin noise, they are on the side, cool, I can fix that. Still bumping and -AW-F^@KKK, 2 teeth on far left forward gear , both teeth next to each other.

Great, now I'm out the rest of the season I guess.

Any one know how long it will take or know how much it'll cost to fix it or should I just go ahead and rebuild it? It runs fine. Haven't had to touch it in 15 years. No noise or smoke. Mostly street ridden n some track.

I heard something downshifting from 6th, thought it was the dogs poppin...

The weard part is, I never noticed anything the rest of the day.

The broken teeth are broke on a wedge. full tooth on one side, point on other. That may be the reason I was able to keep riding.

What are my options?

Thanks.

Cases must be split to replace gears. If you were planning on a rebuild in the near future, This would be the time to do it.

Full Tear down and rebuild! No question.

Think I'm gonna fix it for now and saveup some money for a winter rebuild and have the tranny undercut. Speaking of, Who does it, how much and what's the turn-a-round time?

Thanks.

Falicon?

The guys at APE do a good job,300 bucks and had it back in four weeks.The price maybe a bit up there but they magnaflux it,treat it and undercut it right the first time.This ain't no mickey mouse outfit.....

If you are looking for a tranny to send to them,while yours is still in the bike I have four complete sets and will part with one if you want it.

vinsanity69 wrote:The guys at APE do a good job,300 bucks and had it back in four weeks.The price maybe a bit up there but they magnaflux it,treat it and undercut it right the first time.This ain't no mickey mouse outfit.....

If you are looking for a tranny to send to them,while yours is still in the bike I have four complete sets and will part with one if you want it.

That may be a possability.
I have a set off ebay, may need another...

How much?
Thanks.

Well, today I got to play with it.
Thought I'd be able to split the cases and pull out the gears, but NnnOOOoooo...
In Yamaha's infanite wisdom, they decided to put 2 bolts under the # 2 & 3 cylinders.
So I had to pull the head and jugs first. Guess it was a good thing though. Cam chain seems loose, bends to the side quite a bit.

Time for an overhaul I guess. There wasn't any noise, so should I mess with main and rod bearings? Rods seem to have nominal movement.
I do think now is a good time to change the rings since it is apart and do a valve job. Any suggestions on who to go to for head work?

Dude...I just reread your first post and I feel pretty stupid,I thought you had a 1000....sorry bro I only have 1000 trannys.

John at APE is most likely going to send your tranny to Bill Robinson. He is the best in teh world and will be (depending on what you have them do) less than three hundred dollars.

I tried to, the guys at APE, Salesman didn't have a clue, nor did he care, said other guys were busy and to just send it in and "They'll take care of it" without even giving me any Customer Service as to discussion about anything. Quite Arogent...

APE wants 640. 320 each way. F- that.

Found that Orient X does it and costs 500.

If there is anyone else, please let me know.

Can Bill Robinson be gotten ahold of direct?

Thanks

Sorry to hear APE treated you that way.I always had good buisnesss with them.Not anymore though.
You might try Velocity racing here in Jersey.As fast as these boys run,I am sure they can help you out,All their drag bikes are undercut and they probably do it themselves.
The price will drop shortly......let the season die down a bit.

http://www.robinsonindustriesinc.com/

This ought to get ya there...

Cool...
Thanks.

dragracer1951 wrote:http://www.robinsonindustriesinc.com/

This ought to get ya there...

Do they fall in the category of "If you gotta ask, ....." ? !!

John wrote:Do they fall in the category of "If you gotta ask, ....." ? !!

Most serious motor work does...

FZRDude wrote:

John wrote:Do they fall in the category of "If you gotta ask, ....." ? !!

Most serious motor work does...

Thanks for the back-up Dude.

Silver; Arogance gets people no-where, Dick...

Just to let all know, PSCook sent me a tranny and a flywheel I needed.
Today I had sent off the 2 trannies to Orient X so they can do their magic.

I took my head in to the shop for a valve job, after they got it apart, I brought it back home and ported it. With my race car engine building experience, I figured it would be easy. After I was done, I took it back to the shop for them to cut the seats and finish the rest.

Now, I understand fluid and air dynamics but, from what I was told, after the fact which I did, you are not supposed to knife edge the area between the valves. Why? Yes, aircraft wings have a rounded leading edge and a sharp trailing edge. But, I believe that since I am not tying to "fly" though the air, I am directing the air. How can this be bad? Please explain.

Noidly1 wrote:

FZRDude wrote:

John wrote:Do they fall in the category of "If you gotta ask, ....." ? !!

Most serious motor work does...

Thanks for the back-up Dude.

Silver; Arogance gets people no-where, Dick...

Would you mind drawing me a picture as I seem to be missing something here ?

silver wrote:

Noidly1 wrote:

FZRDude wrote: Most serious motor work does...

Thanks for the back-up Dude.

Silver; Arogance gets people no-where, Dick...

Would you mind drawing me a picture as I seem to be missing something here ?

You gotta ask?

Noidly1 wrote: Now, I understand fluid and air dynamics but, from what I was told, after the fact which I did, you are not supposed to knife edge the area between the valves. Why? Yes, aircraft wings have a rounded leading edge and a sharp trailing edge. But, I believe that since I am not tying to "fly" though the air, I am directing the air. How can this be bad? Please explain.

Bifurcation of the ports to razor sharp edges was all the go when I was in F1, suppose to create less turbulence to airflow, however later day engines seem to prefer a more rounded edge to allow for better fuel atomization etc, Bit like fashion really everyone has their own Quirks, and ideas on how to make power!