Carb difference

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alexyzf
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Post by alexyzf »

dragracer1951 wrote:If idle is 4k, you have an air leak. look at the diaphram for the leak. or an overtightened manifold rubber or something interfereing with the throttle linkage....
Of course your pilot air screws are all at 2.5 turns out from LIGHTLY bottomed. Right???
it was indeed an air problem.... but now i have another problem... notrunning idle ok...an when opening throttle is gets to much gas i gueass.. stalls a bit...

silver
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Post by silver »

A little progress. I called Factory Pro this morning and spoke with Temple. He asked me a few questions and eventually he concluded that the bike was probably running lean at low rpm's. Of coarse we discussed the float issue and he gave me some different instructions on how to set them up that I want to pass along. He stated that the best way to set them up is to tip the carbs so that the floats tip all the way out then to slowly tip them back in until they _just_ rest on the springs. I did this and all of the floats are now set to 8mm. I also swapped out the factory 17.5mm pilot jets for 20's and all four main jets are now at 127.5. She's still not 100% perfect but a whole lot better than it was. I'm waiting to see what she's like on I24 and after a 55 mile run before I give her the clean bill of health. FYI, during my little test run she actually did a 1st gear roll-up-on-one which is something she definitely wouldn't do earlier. Hmmmm, maybe someday I'll get around to putting the FP needles in.

More later when I get into work.

JD
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dragracer1951
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Post by dragracer1951 »

John
I realize this is an Ace and not an FZR. But did you say that your floats are set at 8mm?
Or that your fuel level is set at 8mm?
And by the way, you've perfectly described how I set floats. Teh turning the carb till the float hangs bit. Bravo!
Jim


Hey Kid...
Is my tail light still working?

"...you can't tune a motor that's hurt. They run much faster on fuel then they do on aluminum." - Elmer Trett

sickle44
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Post by sickle44 »

127.5's ???? WTF???
17.5 to 20's WTF??? Again,

Sorry John, but are these a set of 38mm mikuni's from an FZR we're talking about here, or are you farting with your funky Hitachi carbs from your YZF???
Michael
Yes Yes I know, I said, I'm building a project YZF1070

Basement is done now, 850 finished and gone...
Gotta get the new siding up on the house.
Fixing the FZ1 up, cleaning up garage and then I might even begin

silver
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Post by silver »

sickle44 wrote:127.5's ???? WTF???
17.5 to 20's WTF??? Again,

Sorry John, but are these a set of 38mm mikuni's from an FZR we're talking about here, or are you farting with your funky Hitachi carbs from your YZF???
Sorry to show my ignorance but are Hitachi's bad ? Also the 127.5's are stock OEM for cylinders 1 & 4 while cylinders 2 & 3 take 125's. Of course 17.5's are the stock pilot jets. The 20's are one size up which had me baffled given that the nozzle is in fact smaller in diameter. Temple was a little surprised that they sent
the 20's as he thought the 22.5's would be a better choice.

By the way, I kinda owe Factory Pro a little apology. I thought the kit for my YZF was supposed to include springs however Temple informed me that only about 20% of their kits need replacement springs. I have to admit, I'm pretty impressed with the way he helped me out today.

---
dragracer1951 wrote:John
I realize this is an Ace and not an FZR. But did you say that your floats are set at 8mm? Or that your fuel level is set at 8mm?
Temple told me to go with 8mm so that's what I did. Sounds funny but that's almost exactly where two out of the four floats landed at stock. In looking around the web, it seems this is in fact a common value.
dragracer1951 wrote: And by the way, you've perfectly described how I set floats. Teh turning the carb till the float hangs bit. Bravo!
Thanks Jim. I really appreciate that.
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sickle44
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Post by sickle44 »

Well the Hitachi's don't allow you to change your e-tube as I understand. They are IN the carb, correct me if I'm wrong. My seca used to have Hitachi carbs, enough said? No adjustment possibilities, you had to shim the needles with washer's in order to actually change the needle positition.

I'm assuming then that these are the Hitachi carbs from the YZF as the pilot jet is half of the size the mikuni's pilot is. How come you went with 127.5's right across the board? This may work well for a while, but experience has taught me that after a time, either 2 or 3 will begin to foul.

Hope this helps.

Thanks to digging around on this board and from other member's advice, that is also how I came to learn to adjust my floats.
Michael
Yes Yes I know, I said, I'm building a project YZF1070

Basement is done now, 850 finished and gone...
Gotta get the new siding up on the house.
Fixing the FZ1 up, cleaning up garage and then I might even begin

silver
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Post by silver »

sickle44 wrote:Well the Hitachi's don't allow you to change your e-tube as I understand. They are IN the carb, correct me if I'm wrong. My seca used to have Hitachi carbs, enough said? No adjustment possibilities, you had to shim the needles with washer's in order to actually change the needle positition.
There is something to be said for a lack of adjustability as long as the design is durable and somewhat simple.
sickle44 wrote:I'm assuming then that these are the Hitachi carbs from the YZF as the pilot jet is half of the size the mikuni's pilot is.
The carbs are in fact Mikuni's and Temple (Factory Pro) mentioned that they get their jets directly from Mikuni. You can see the teardown on them at
http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schema ... 734_16.gif
I'm still baffled as to why they ran coolant through the carbs though.
sickle44 wrote: How come you went with 127.5's right across the board? This may work well for a while, but experience has taught me that after a time, either 2 or 3 will begin to foul.
This is what Temple recommended. We'll see soon enough. I have about 140 miles on since putting her back together. Ran fine. That smile factor is getting carried away with though. Got to watch it as it will have my in court if I'm not careful. :)
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sickle44
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Post by sickle44 »

Mmmpphhh!!

I've talked to Mark at FP as well as Temple and Mark said to make sure you keep them as stock unless your motor is Heavily modified and even then...?? Also as you probably know factory is supposed to be 125's on 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 get 122.5's. I challenge you to try that config and see your smile then? Unless of course this is what you just came from. I would think 127.5's across the board to be waaaaaaaayyyyy Rich. It'll run awesome for the first while but after those plugs foul up, you'll be screaming a colourful streak.

Mabye it's just the Canadian spec bike, I'm sure I've got a buddy with Hitachi's in his machine.
Michael
Yes Yes I know, I said, I'm building a project YZF1070

Basement is done now, 850 finished and gone...
Gotta get the new siding up on the house.
Fixing the FZ1 up, cleaning up garage and then I might even begin

silver
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Post by silver »

sickle44 wrote:I've talked to Mark at FP as well as Temple and Mark said to make sure you keep them as stock unless your motor is Heavily modified and even then...??
Well I told them Temple that the only mods to my bike are the :

1) D&D carbon slip-on
2) K&N air filter
3) NGK Iridium plugs
sickle44 wrote: Also as you probably know factory is supposed to be 125's on 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 get 122.5's.
That's not what I'm seeing. I'm looking right at the shop manual and it states "#1,4:127.5 , #2,3 : #125" which corresponds to what I found when I first opened the carbs up.
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sickle44
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Post by sickle44 »

Well perhaps I'm standing corrected again, in Thunderarse terms. Those specs were for FZR1000 John so sorry for not making the distinction. I'd still try running each way 127.5-125-125-127.5 opposed to 127.5-127.5-127.5-127.5 and check the plugs after equal time periods of riding.
Michael
Yes Yes I know, I said, I'm building a project YZF1070

Basement is done now, 850 finished and gone...
Gotta get the new siding up on the house.
Fixing the FZ1 up, cleaning up garage and then I might even begin

silver
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Post by silver »

sickle44 wrote:Well perhaps I'm standing corrected again, in Thunderarse terms. Those specs were for FZR1000 John so sorry for not making the distinction. I'd still try running each way 127.5-125-125-127.5 opposed to 127.5-127.5-127.5-127.5 and check the plugs after equal time periods of riding.
Oh I'm planning on it. In fact I have a fresh set of standard plugs at home waiting for a nice sunny day when I can do the ol' "plug chop" that I had previously discussed with Jim. Hopefully that's going to be the same day I get to dig into the FZR that's still sitting in my driveway. Need to mate that YZF1000 fork to it and adjust the valves prior to putting it back together.
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