how much air can seriously be trapped in there??
I have put a good half a quart through it, my forearm is sore, I get pressure when I release the bleedvalve with the lever pulled......but the rear wheel spins and spins
I have a mityvac but it doesnt seem to be helping at all.
any suggestions?
I remember it being a crappy night when I did the slave cylinder last summer....but jeez, enough already.
w. t. f. new clutch master and can't get crap for pressure?
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w. t. f. new clutch master and can't get crap for pressure?
88 FZR 1000 - SuperTrap, K&N, FP kit - sold
90 FZR 1000 - 1040, Ohlins, 91 USD's...some other stuff - sold
93 FZR 600 - rat/cafe/POS/Trackbike Project
03 SV1000S - bye bye
06 R6 50th Anniversary - slip on, PCIII, race rails
90 FZR 1000 - 1040, Ohlins, 91 USD's...some other stuff - sold
93 FZR 600 - rat/cafe/POS/Trackbike Project
03 SV1000S - bye bye
06 R6 50th Anniversary - slip on, PCIII, race rails
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- Help!!! I need a LIFE!!!
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I've just done mine with a new GSXR1000 1/2" MC and it works a dream. The lever has to reach the bar to be fully disengaged when cold, but with the oil warm two fingers (with the other two trapped) is enough to find neutral no probs or to wait for traffic.
The action's feather light and that's with Barnet 10% stronger clutch springs.
Bled it no probs, DOT4, from the bar down to the slave just by pumping the lever, it shouldn't offer any resistance to speak of so I can't see how you got a tired arm.
Try this:
Have the bleed hose rise up before it falls down to the can/bottle/whatever (I looped mine over the footrest heel-plate) so that there's always a good bit of fluid in the pipe directly next to the nipple. As you release the lever there's always some suck-back so you want fluid sneaking back in through the bleed nipple, not air.
I used to try to make sure I closed off the bleed nipple while hapf way through a pump stoke, but it was a bit hit and miss and it's frankly a lot simpler just doing the hose trick.
Good luck.
John
The action's feather light and that's with Barnet 10% stronger clutch springs.
Bled it no probs, DOT4, from the bar down to the slave just by pumping the lever, it shouldn't offer any resistance to speak of so I can't see how you got a tired arm.
Try this:
Have the bleed hose rise up before it falls down to the can/bottle/whatever (I looped mine over the footrest heel-plate) so that there's always a good bit of fluid in the pipe directly next to the nipple. As you release the lever there's always some suck-back so you want fluid sneaking back in through the bleed nipple, not air.
I used to try to make sure I closed off the bleed nipple while hapf way through a pump stoke, but it was a bit hit and miss and it's frankly a lot simpler just doing the hose trick.
Good luck.
John
If you're going to take a shot at me let me know so I can duck...!
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- Help!!! I need a LIFE!!!
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alright it turned out the clutch plates were just stickin together..........as I went back to my old MC and had the same issue.
had the bike on my rear stand and when I put her into gear with the clutch in the rear wheel was still spinning and would spin faster when I put her in higher gears.
MC I had swapped to was NEW OEM from the dealer
the slave is 6 months old, from the dealer
had the bike on my rear stand and when I put her into gear with the clutch in the rear wheel was still spinning and would spin faster when I put her in higher gears.
MC I had swapped to was NEW OEM from the dealer
the slave is 6 months old, from the dealer
88 FZR 1000 - SuperTrap, K&N, FP kit - sold
90 FZR 1000 - 1040, Ohlins, 91 USD's...some other stuff - sold
93 FZR 600 - rat/cafe/POS/Trackbike Project
03 SV1000S - bye bye
06 R6 50th Anniversary - slip on, PCIII, race rails
90 FZR 1000 - 1040, Ohlins, 91 USD's...some other stuff - sold
93 FZR 600 - rat/cafe/POS/Trackbike Project
03 SV1000S - bye bye
06 R6 50th Anniversary - slip on, PCIII, race rails