MotoGP Tires (Tyres)

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djalbin
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MotoGP Tires (Tyres)

Post by djalbin »

Statistics, or trivia ... depending on your interest level, on MotoGP race tires:

800 = the number of Michelin tires used by each rider over the course of a season.

1000 = the number tires brought by Michelin to each European race

5 kg = weight of a front tire (11 lbs)

7 kg = weight of rear tires (15.4 lbs)

60 deg = max lean angle on a dry track (try that with your street tire)
PILOT POWER max lean angle in the dry is 50.6 degrees

45 deg = max lean angle on a wet track
PILOT POWER max lean angle in the wet is 41.9 degrees

100 sq cm = total contact patch for front & rear tires (15.5 sq inches)
Equivalent to a pair of credit cards

5km = average durability distance for a qualifying tire (3 miles)
Good for one lap

100km = average durability distance for a race tire (62 miles)

150 = number of components used to create a tire

350 km/h = top speed reached by a MotoGP bike (217.5 mph)

Don
Last edited by djalbin on Sat Apr 29, 2006 7:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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:popcorn

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Re: MotoGP Tires (Tyres)

Post by DAVE »

djalbin wrote: 60 deg = max lean angle on a dry track (try that with your street tire)
How does that compare to an average road bike (like the FZR)??
If my maths is good the cornering force is 1.73G and the combined force on the tyres (and body) is 2G
djalbin wrote: PILOT POWER max lean angle in the dry is 50.6 degrees
What does that mean?
djalbin wrote: 45 deg = max lean angle on a wet track
Does that mean I am too conservative in the wet??. I would never get over 15deg.
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Actual results may vary ...

Post by djalbin »

Dave,

The Michelin claim for Pilot Powers did not qualify the statement with what bike. They just claim that on a dry surface the tire is capable of a 50.6 degree lean angle, and on a wet surface the tire is capable of 41.9 degrees. I'm sure the bike's setup, weight, speed and other factors will influence the actual results.

The MotoGP tire is capable of 60 degrees lean angle on a dry surface and 45 degrees on a wet surface. Again, the bike's setup, weight, speed and other factors will influence the actual results.

I expect the lean angle claims are based on the tire profile and compounds; although the condition and type of road surface will also have an affect. I assume the consequences of leaning 1 degree more is predictable (crash). I also expect the maximum lean angles are not realized under hard braking or acceleration either (crash). Racing slicks can provide good traction on a wet surface as long as the tire maintains it's temperature and the water is not so deep as to cause hydroplaning.

Don
Last edited by djalbin on Sat Apr 29, 2006 7:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by DAVE »

Ok DON, that 10 degrees difference results in a cornering force of 1.2g (if my maths is correct) compared to 1.7g - that is a 40% increase for the race tyres. I guess its the tyre life and $$$ thing for road users. I am still recovering from having mine at 90deg two weeks ago. Found the limit of front tyre grip under brakes on an unexpected damp patch approaching a corner.
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90 degrees

Post by djalbin »

Dave,

That 40% increase for race tires is a big difference when a 10th of a second per lap can add up to a full second after 10 laps. Tires only have to last the distance of one race.

Hope all is well after your 90 degree experience. I have heard a lot of different descriptions for a crash but "90 degree lean angle" is a new one ... :D

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Post by DAVE »

Its been two weeks, I am recovering although the shoulder is still very sore (damaged AC joint), the hole in my knee has some semblance of skin on it now and in the last week I have had a bit of trouble with my ribs - I think I must have cracked one and it's trying to knit, only hurts when I sneeze. I am only just able to get some reasonble use out of my shoulder now.

After my mate picked up the bike and made some repairs I rode the bike home (about 1.5 hour ride) and thats been the last ride. I have a dent and a few scratches in the tank cover. I need to replace alternator cover, nose and side faring, mirror, front indicator and brake lever. I have sourced the first 3 items and obtained all the other. So I am looking at $750 + paint and stickers.

The frame that holds the headlights, instument cluster and front faring was bent and I have straightened that. Took me about 6 hours work to get it right. I have sanded and polished most of the scratches out of the muffler and it looks good.

I just have to decide on whether to stay with original colours or go for a custom job.
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Post by djalbin »

Dave,

Don't feel too bad about your lowside ... it's happens to the best of them; including Casey Stoner.

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Post by DAVE »

True, but in his case he was leaning over a fair way before he fell off and he is trailing the bike. I was leading the way with my shoulder. :cry: He is probably 25 years younger than me too.

Seriously though, I am on the mend. I am now learning a new trade - backyard plastic welding :D
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Post by jjs777 »

sorry to hear about your ~off~ dave

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Post by DAVE »

Thanks for that John. I am just a bit upset as I was looking to sell the bike and get something a bit newer so all the money spent is actually extending my timeframe out.

I guess that it was a bit of inexperience on my behalf in watching the bike in front rather than paying more attention to the road. Darn those wet patches.

I just have to repair the cosmetic bits now.
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