cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Yamaman · Post by **Yamaman** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 2:59 am

went on a ride with a bunch of guys (who are a lot more experienced than me particularly on big capacity bikes) the other weekend, and whilst I really enjoyed the ride, I came back a little disappointed in my riding ability. I really fell far behind on the corners. I know I'm probably getting a bit over anxious to keep up with more experienced but I'm determined to keep up with these guys. When I had my 250 I had an excuse, but now I haven't.. Long sweeping, constant radius corners I can lean it over quite confidently and keep up. Problem I'm having is on the tight twists through the mountain ranges. Normally the ones that involve fairly heavy braking between each corner. Now I realise the theory is brake on the approach to the corner, then off the brakes once you start turning into the corner and on the power once you hit the apex. But all this goes out the window when you're tearing down hill and the corners are spaced only a couple of hundred metres apart. The bottom line is I find the bike is pushing (or understeering through corners) The steering is almost fighting me to stay straight. What I initially found is that I was applying far too much front brake into the corner which I was advised by the other guys is a big no-no. They suggested instead that if I am going to brake into a corner, better to lean on the rear brake as the front brake will tend to pull the bike upright and straight. So I tried that and there was a big improvement. Bike turned in significantly better into the corners and therefore I have gained some cornering speed. However the front end still does fight me somewhat, which is still knocking my confidence around. I don't know much about setting bikes up, but I don't think it's a bike setup problem as the rear end wasn't giving me any sort of negative feedback. However maybe there is a setup problem ??? So how do you knee dragging guys do it ? I don't expect to ever be at the level where I'm leaning my own knee down on the tarmac but in the same scenario how would you guys tackle it ? ie multiple tight diminishing radius, downhill corners suggestions would be much appreciated - thanks <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"> proud owner of a 89 FZR1000 !!Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... Yamaman</A> at: 6/4/05 1:01 am

Post by **jjs777** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 6:33 am

First a word of caution from the smart area of my brain. DO NOT RIDE PAST YOUR ABILITY - RIDE YOUR OWN RACE! NOT AGAINST SOMEONE ELSE! These are words of wisdom that has been handed down from generation to generation. Okay rr jim told me at least one of them. Next would be go sign yourself up for a track day. Surely there is one within your area that you can attend. HA! I just did my first one and had loads of fun... for instance..take a look at the track day I did... <a href="http://www.tonystrackdays.com/generalin ...  and read some of the tips and suggestions etc...its a nicely done layout Are you watching the line these other guys are taking? Perhaps your not riding the correct line to achieve best results. What kind of tires are you running? There are different profiles of tires and THAT makes a big difference in turn in ability. Adjust your tire pressures accordingly. I'd say with moderate temps...go for 34F and 35R. On the 89...did you adjust the preload on the front forks ? How about the rear ? If your running stock 89 4 pot opposable calipers and rotors..your likely gonna want to upgrade the calipers - the R1 and R6 front calipers are a direct swap up to and including 2003 (not sure of the R6....prolly past '03 at least. Then try getting yourself a set of used ducati snow flak rotors...they are a vast improvement over the stockers and fit straight on. Then...make sure you have a good firm grasp on reality. You are riding a 534lb bike that likes a 160lb rider. It was NOT meant as a canyon carver. I have no doubt with an expeirenced rider the 87-95 fzr1000 CAN stay with just about ANY modern sport bike. But dont ask it to perform miracles. Hope this makes sense...I listed things that come to mind...but opinions may vary. -John  <a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/ ... cement.jpg" target="top">1995 FZR1000</a>  <a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/ ... 00x600.jpg" target="top">1990 FZR1000</a>  <a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/ ... resize.jpg" target="top">1990 FZR1040</a>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... >jjs777</A> <IMG HEIGHT=10 WIDTH=10 SRC="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/ ... states.gif" BORDER=0> at: 6/5/05 3:33 am

macca · Post by **macca** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:44 am

First a word of caution from the smart area of my brain. DO NOT RIDE PAST YOUR ABILITY - RIDE YOUR OWN RACE! NOT AGAINST SOMEONE ELSE! These are words of wisdom that has been handed down from generation to generation. Okay rr jim told me at least one of them. V.V. wise words...<img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... odpost.gif ALT=":goodpost"> I used to struggle on corners too, felt a bit embarresd, wished i could go faster...... Easyest way amigo is this. Select a bit of road you like and know quite well with various corners ( your track ). Ride it on you'r own as often as possible, think THROUGH the corners before/as you approach and give yourself an audible commentary of what you are doing ( don't worry, no one will hear you! ). When you reach the point you have chosen as the end of your track, turn round/take a fag break and do it in reverse. Try to fit in a run as often as poss, even put 20 mins or so on each journey home to do a run through.I PROMISE you that you will improve. The fact you want to is proof enough. But always remember john's quote Improvise, Adapt, Overcome.

RiceRocket1 · Post by **RiceRocket1** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 11:24 am

From what I am hearing it sounds like the bikes set up is off. Like I told John at the track day, "ride your own ride" if you find yourself pushing to keep up, then your pushing to hard and are looking to get hurt. Next get the bike to some one that can do the suspension set-up for you. I took my 95 FZR in and had the worn suspension completely replaced with after market (racetech front rebuild and penske rear shock) and it is like night and day. After that remember that the bike is a hell of a lot better than you are, (not a put down, mine is better than me). Meaning trust that it can make the turn, and that you need to keep your head level to the ground and look through the turn, not at it. If you are looking at the turn, you are riding the front wheel. When you do this the ground rushes by and makes you feel you are riding way to fast. If you look through the turn it just slows every thing done and give you more time to react to any situation that arrises. Another thing that you MUST be is "smooth". Don't grab the brake, squeeze it. If you grab it to hard you WILL lock it up. If you squeeze it, you can squeeze it harder and harder till you lift the rear off the ground. When coming off the brake and onto the throttle, ease of the brake while increasing the throttle. This will help to keep the bike suspension settled when transfering weight from the front to the back. When getting on the throttle roll it on, don't just grab a fist full. Once agian this keeps the suspension settled. If your in a turn and feel the ass end stepping out, fight all the urges to cut the throttle and keep a neutral throttle (don't give it more or less)the bike will catch up to the rear tire. If it has already gone past the point of recovery, nuetral throttle will lowside the bike where chopping it will cause sudden grip and cause a high side. If I'm going to go down I would rather low side instead of trying to do a superman impersonation and break bones as I land. Also I have to dis-agree on the pressures. If your doing "normal" street riding the pressures mentioned are OK. If your doing some serious canyon carving then you want them lower around 32 PSI. It allows the tire to heat up better and flex a little more giving you a wider foot print and thus better traction. If your rolling all kinds of rubber balls of then bring them up by a 1 psi at a time. If the tire wear is uneven then that is also a sign of impropper suspension setup. My bud is an expert level racer and track day instructor. Had him take the FZR out on the track and he came back with high remarks for the suspension and the power of the bike. The next bike I get will be a dedicated track bike and the first go fast goodies will be suspension upgrades not power. With propper suspension you can go much faster in the turns and carry more entrance and exit speeds thus making you faster than some one who can go like a raped ape in the straights but has to park it in the corners because the bike can't handle it do to poor setup. A couple of the instructors were riding 45 HP two strokers and railing past bigger bikes in the turns. But getting passed on the straight to once agian pass them in the turns. My bud on the FZR... He has so many track miles under his belt he was not even trying in these picks. Where I was getting it to 120 MPH before braking. He had it up to 130 MPH. One reason he can carry much more corner speed than me comfortably. <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/ ... C_5432.jpg" style="border:0;"/> <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/ ... C_5430.jpg" style="border:0;"/> <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/ ... C_5420.jpg" style="border:0;"/> Jim 95 FZR1000 <img src="http://www.danasoft.com/sig/rice-rocket ...

Cosmo007 · Post by **Cosmo007** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:10 pm

I like the input that you are getting from everyone here. Now for my 2-bits. I disagree that the fzr1k isn't a canyon carver, a properly set-up fzr can run a very high tempo in the twisties at a comfortable input level. A stock suspended bike pretty much blows, but will still scoot right along. When I ran a stock shock with the race tech front end I would slide around like mad on corner entry and exit. Just putting in a high quality rear shock stopped that misbehaving. I ran my bike with a handful of problems the first season I had her and still blew modern 600s of the twisties if there was a near my skill level rider on board. I had warped rotors, horrible line pulsating under braking, worn out rear shock and obsurd oil consumption. The whole concept of smooth is very important throwing a heavy powerful bike around. I like taking a fixed speed approach on a road that you know well. Pick a speed that should be safe for your level and try to never deviate from it on your whole ride. Yes, that means slower straights and faster corners. This approach lets you avoid the chassis problems of braking and accelerating to a large degree, which if you think about it are fairly advanced inputs. Focus on getting to know your bike in this fashion on the street and save the harder stuff for when you understand the portly nature of your bike and just how fast it will corner. I always remember that liter bikes are for lazy folks mainly, enter slower shoot out faster. C'mon, we're not racing here, a fast line will get you there better than constantly changing all your inputs to go a few mph/kph faster down the 100-200 meter straight. Get your bike happy and you'll learn a lot more. Keep the shiny side up and the rubber thingy's on the road.

djalbin · Post by **djalbin** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:18 pm

Yamaman, I ride up and down a mountain range with tight corners. The down ride takes some practice to get right. Here's what helped with my bike: - Get the chassis/suspension balanced for neutral weight distribution (50/50). You will need to swap out the stock dogbones for shorter length dogbones to raise the rear. - 120/70 front and 180/55 rear tires - HH sintered front brake pads - Replace old brake fluid with fresh fluid - Steel braided brake lines - Set front fork preload and rear shock preload/damping so the tires stay on the road and the suspension (forks/shocks) stays in the middle of the travel range. - Apply the rear brake prior to applying the front brake. The rear brake will pull the suspension down so when you apply the front brake there will not be a large sudden transfer of weight to the front of the bike. - Apply most of your braking prior to the corner; while the bike is straight up and not leaned over. - Corner entry speed should be slow enough that you can stay on the throttle through the corner, and increase the throttle as you exit. - Use smooth transitions from braking to throttle and throttle to braking. I use two or three fingers for hard braking. One finger if I'm trail braking. - Don't put too much air in the tires. Air will expand as you climb in altitude. - Use countersteering and body english to make smooth but quick transitions from corner to corner. - There is enough engine braking that some corners do not require brakes and other corners only light braking. Pick a gear that keeps your RPMs high in the power range and the suspension tight. Only small throttle changes will be required. - Low RPMs with heavy braking will wreck the handling going downhill through tight corners. High RPMs with engine braking requires less brakes and lets you use the throttle to drive through the corners. Don Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... djalbin</A> at: 6/4/05 8:24 pm

exupturbo · Post by **exupturbo** » Sun Jun 05, 2005 1:38 am

After riding a light bike the old exup does take some turning, easiest way to get it turning is to lean on the inside bar IE on a left hand corner push on the left hand bar (not too hard to start with until you get the feel) and the old girl will suprise you <img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... iker_3.gif ALT=":riding"> Mark

Yamaman · Post by **Yamaman** » Sun Jun 05, 2005 6:50 am

thanks for your time guys - some very informative, detailed replies there guys. I'm taking it all on board. Firstly yeah I am being mindful not to outride my ability and I am keeping reasonably within my boundaries - thus the reason I'm dropping back so far behind the other guys. I did have a few minor 'OH @#%$' moments but nothing too major. But it is something to keep in mind at all times, all too easy to forget and then it's too late. The other bikes I was up against on that weekend were a 2004 900cc Triumph, a 1985 GSXR750 and some fairly sporty looking 1150cc BMW which looks like it just came out of the plastic. So I don't think the FZR would be outclassed in that bunch. I think it's more a case of the rider being outclassed <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"> The GSXR is a light weight, but apparently those Triumphs are a comparable weight to the FZR. I'm sure that my bike wasn't being pushed anywhere near it's limit on the ride. So I'm reluctant to play around much with the suspension setup until I know that it is the bike that is struggling rather than me. According to jjs777 I should be the ideal weight for the bike though. I weigh about 75kg/150 pounds so at least that bit is right! To be honest, at this point in time, I'm not blaming the bike at all. Brakes were more than adequate, and the bike was sitting very well on the road. As most of you have mentioned I think it comes down to the way I am approaching a corner. I can see the correct line (need to compromise for a narrow two way road), and normally right up to the apex I am keeping on that line, but that is where the line is lost. Once I hit the apex I struggle to continue to turn it in (especially when the radius of the corner suddenly diminishes. I then end up getting caught really wide and totally miss the exit of the corner, which then normally involves bringing the bike almost to a stop so that I don't end up on the wrong side of the road. I feel my approach speed is probably ok. On average I'm approaching the corners slower than the guys in front. The trail braking method as I mentioned earlier seemed to help a lot (I was using far too much front brake) as does physically transferring the body weight into the corner. But I still have a long way to go. I will take on the suggestion of finding my own track and riding it until I get those lines right and feel more comfortable. I think not knowing a road really compounds problems when you aren't particularly confident with your riding ability to start with. One step at a time I guess ! proud owner of a 89 FZR1000 !!

Nbot · Post by **Nbot** » Sun Jun 05, 2005 11:53 pm

I say, go buy the book "Twist of the Wrist". I know its 30 years old or something, but you'll learn a shiznit load in every chapter, things you wouldn't have thought of....like how the bank of the corner is more important whether its a decreasing or increasing radius turn.........bank + radius= part of the equation. Plus, he goes over infact what good racers do on corners nowadays....you ARE NOT trying to straighten out the corner by being on the outside, skimming the apex, then hitting the outside again. You are trying to turn as late as possible in the corner....which means more time straight up and down, and less time leant over pushing your tires....try to do the maximum lean for the shortest time! Also, don't always just go to the outside of the track because they said that's what your supposed to do....if you coming out of a corner (what you think as hot) still try and make that corner as tight as possible....if you still have 10 feet left over to the outside, than you just learned that you can go faster in that corner and still have track left over. Either way, more than anything, play it safe. Spend good money on good gear, its worth it (don't ask me how I know). And I live in Durango CO...with plenty of mountain passes, but you won't catch me racing around any highway turns anymore! Too many variables....cars, gravel, rocks, children running out, oil, who knows....plus, you will NEVER get to ride a bike like its supposed to be until you go to a track!!<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"> Man I really sound like an old fart, don't I?? Nbot '94 Fizzer Litre This is your sig on drugs....

Ton up · Post by **Ton up** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 3:10 pm

If the bike is trying to stand up in the bends, something is wrong. The FZR has quite neutral handling, and you can trail the front brake gently into the bends without it wanting to stand up too much. Check your tyre pressures- maybe the front tyre pressure is just too low, which would turn the bike into a truck. What type and profile tyre are you running? The wrong tyre choice can turn a great bike into a piece of sh$t. Check the suspension and settings. Is there any oil in the forks? If you haven't done it already, change the fork oil. Try changing the suspension settings at both ends to the factory recommended settings, and then go from there. This can make a huge difference. Get one of your trusted riding mates to take it for a spin. If there's a problem they will probably spot it. As far as cornering goes- apex late, look as far ahead as possible, RELAX your arms and hands, and use the vanishing point. This is a great technique for riding on unfamiliar roads. The vanishing point is the point at which the left and right hand sides of the bend either merge together or disappear from veiw. If the vanishing point is coming towards you the bend is getting tighter, consider scrubbing off some speed. If the vanishing point stays the same distance away from you the bend has a constant radius- if you are already leant over then barring a oil spill or poor surface, nothing can go wrong. If the vanishing point begins to move away from you, the corner is opening up so it's time to accelerate... Just a thought- you do understand counter steering, right? Above about 20 km/h if you push on the left hand bar, the bike will turn left, and visa versa. As for the brakes, with the 89 always use at least three fingers on the brakes. The 89 has plenty of stopping power if you use three fingers, but the brakes simply aren't good enough to use only two fingers, they require a lot more lever pressure than newer bikes. If you try and use two, you'll be OK initially, but on a really twisty road with short hard bursts of acceleration you will end up with a very tired and sore right hand. This is something that I finally have come to accept only recently. Maybe putting in braided lines would help, but three fingers works fine for me. One final word- what the other guys said- ride at your own pace, relax, try the things suggested above, and the corner speed will come. What's a better outcome; arriving a minute or two behind the other guy's, or binning it trying to keep up?

mintclint · Post by **mintclint** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 8:53 am

Nice and simple bit of advice here. No one touched on the rear brake. All of you guys can try this one. The front brake will want to stand the bike up, when going THROUGH the corner try trailing the rear brake LIGHTLY with your big toe for as long as needed. It drags the bike down in the suspension, lengthening the wheel base and settling it. Also a great little trick to tighten up the line mid corner. Thats what I do and it works for me.<img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... iker_3.gif ALT=":riding"> Clint. '87 FZR1000T gen·e·sis (jen-i-sis)n. pl.:The coming into being of something; the origin.

Cosmo007 · Post by **Cosmo007** » Tue Jun 07, 2005 8:23 pm

Not to be an offensive snob, but you guys need to see that the question posted here wasn't how to max out the ability of an old, heavy and powerful liter bike. Trail braking is for advanced to expert riders. Modifying your already competent bike is for someone who has mastered the one they have. Twist of the Wrist is great, for a trackday! I know more than one person who read that book only to crash applying the ideas when not ready for the tools on the road. Wehave an interested new member who would like to learn to ride his new bike safely and be able to keep up with comprable sportbikes on local rides. I personally believe that this post has only added danger to this person's experience and not enhanced his potential. Crawl before you walk, yada yada yada. I respect most everyones opinion here and value your input, but lets keep this new member alive and well, while enjoying what he may have to offer rather than put him into the gardrail or grave. <img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... oapbox.gif ALT=":soap"> <img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... ssyfit.gif ALT=":hissy">

dragracer1951 · Post by **dragracer1951** » Wed Jun 08, 2005 8:26 am

<blockquote>Quote:<hr>Once I hit the apex I struggle to continue to turn it in (especially when the radius of the corner suddenly diminishes. I then end up getting caught really wide and totally miss the exit of the corner, which then normally involves bringing the bike almost to a stop so that I don't end up on the wrong side of the road. I feel my approach speed is probably ok. On average I'm approaching the corners slower than the guys in front. <hr></blockquote> If you consistantly run wide then you are turning in early.... The advice of braking late is great advice and that is a different thing than late apexing where you are moving the apex of your line later in the corner... Lots of good stuff to think about here! Great thread. And I'm not even going to bother to tell you to ride your own ride....you already know that Jim <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Cheers.gif" style="border:0;"/> <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... states.gif" style="border:0;"/> Hey Kid...Is my taillight working?

Yamaman · Post by **Yamaman** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 6:18 am

Yeah dragracer - I think you are right, might be turning in too early. Most of my 'high spirited' driving experience has been in my car, which no doubt involves somewhat different cornering lines and braking than a bike. I guess you would tend to turn a car into a corner earlier than a bike. So maybe I'm applying my 4 wheel cornering techniques to my 2 wheels. it's been extremely helpful and interesting reading all the various bits of advice though - I do appreciate it all. I'm considering all advice, but rest assured I'm using my own judgement as to whether it will work for me. I realised from the beginning that there would be some conflicting ideas as riding styles are completely varied from one rider to another. I even notice that on GP circuit some riders take completely different lines and styles to the other riders. But having so much advice thrown my way, I can take bits and pieces from everyone and trial the advice that I think would best suit my riding style. As Cosmo mentioned I'm am a fairly new rider on the litre bike scene. It's been one hell of a learning curve jumping from 40 horses/140kg straight up to 140 horsepower/210kg. The big power jump hasn't been so much of a factor at the moment particularly on the twisty rides - to be honest I've been very conservative on the throttle. It's the difference in handling & weight that is probably proving to be the biggest hurdle at the moment. Realistically I'm not expecting to be carving up the roads like a GP rider - I simply don't have the instinct or the balls <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"> Instead just trying to pick up some tips from experienced riders on ways of improving my riding in an effort to keep up a bit with the other guys, but also for my own enjoyment. Bikes are boring on straight roads, corners is what they are made for - so I'd like to get to the point where I actually enjoy those corners a bit more and maybe not fall so far behind my other riding companions in the process. Bike setup - for those who have asked. Tyres Dunlop Sportsmax 120/70, 180/55 Suspension setup - NO IDEA <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"> To be honest, I'd probably like to learn to ride the bike with the factory setup first and then fine tune the bike. How do I determine if it is at factory specs ? Ok to summarise from this thread - I've decided on a couple of things I think I need to do first. a) work on the cornering line. The vanishing point concept that someone mentioned is something I might take note of on next ride. Seems I might be cornering too early, and need to work on braking technique at the same time. As suggested I might find a quiet bit of road with some good corners somewhere and ride it a number of times, gradually picking up the speed as I get more confident. b) choosing the right gear - someone brought this one up and it is something that is fairly obvious that I didn't really think of at the time - but now it makes sense. I think I am sitting in a too high gear through the corners. By being in a high gear the percentage of throttle control is greatly reduced, and the bike tends to want to 'overrun' into corners instead of natural engine braking. proud owner of a 89 FZR1000 !!

Yamaman · Post by **Yamaman** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 6:29 am

I might add, for such a powerful engine these bikes can be such pussycats if you wish them to be, which makes learning to ride them so much more pleasant and safe. Such a wide and steady powerband at least up to around 7000rpm which makes throttle control very predictable and effortless to maintain. However unleash that throttle and all hell breaks loose! proud owner of a 89 FZR1000 !!

Hiras · Post by **Hiras** » Mon Jun 13, 2005 8:53 am

Lots of interesting stuff here but some bordering on the esoteric. Go to a track day. Learn about weight shifting\ countersteering and choosing an appropriate line. Ask the instructors to help if you are not sure. The superbly knowledgeable folk here will all offer excellent if somewhat varied advice about setup but ultimately a good rider will manage good cornering on any old nail of a motorcycle because he or she knows how to ride it. Trackday - weightshift - COUNTERSTEERING - safety.

macca · Post by **macca** » Mon Jun 13, 2005 11:02 am

uummm wot does esoteric mean???<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/embarassed.gif ALT=":o"> Improvise, Adapt, Overcome.

djalbin · Post by **djalbin** » Mon Jun 13, 2005 10:44 pm

Yamaman, You said "you're tearing down hill and the corners are spaced only a couple of hundred metres apart" ... and "how would you guys tackle it ? ie multiple tight diminishing radius, downhill corners" You need to take a different line through double apex, and decreasing radius turns, from the line you take through constant radius turns. Using a later apex (going deeper into the turn so your apex is farther) will help. Practice the late apex approach at a slower speed to get comfortable with it. It will require you to pick your turn point and to turn quicker than with a gradual constant radius turn. Experiment with early and late apex approaches on these turns and you will notice the difference (experiment at the slower/comfortable speed <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"> If you drive on the right side of the road (U.S.) approach the right turn from the left of your lane, and approach the left turn from the right side of your lane. Then try the turns from just left-of-center and right-of-center. You will notice the difference. Where you exit the first turn will set you up for the entry to the next turn. Very important if there is very little distance between turns. Don

exupturbo · Post by **exupturbo** » Tue Jun 14, 2005 3:27 pm

<blockquote>Quote:<hr>The other bikes I was up against on that weekend were a 2004 900cc Triumph, a 1985 GSXR750 and some fairly sporty looking 1150cc BMW which looks like it just came out of the plastic. So I don't think the FZR would be outclassed in that bunch. I think it's more a case of the rider being outclassed The GSXR is a light weight, but apparently those Triumphs are a comparable weight to the FZR.<hr></blockquote> ANY exup still running on four cylinders will destroy all of the above <img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... iker_3.gif ALT=":riding"> There used to be a Wednesday evening ride out in my area and towards the end of the year the riding got more than a little scary and competative <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("> Riding flat out towards a setting sun at harvest time on country roads has got to be one of the most stupid things I've ever done and I'm glad I lived long enough to call it a day. Had some good rips with other bikes during this time. Mine at the time had just a 1040 kit and dynojet along with carbon can. Original twin headlight Fireblade was beaten VERY easily at speeds over 100 mph. Ducati 916 was even slooower and not at all quicker out of the bends if you kept the exup in the right gear. Triumph 955i was about as fast as a CBR 600 Biggest struggle I had was with a watercooled GSXR1100 which I managed to overtake at an indicated 170mph. I am now old and sensible and have no need for excessive speed <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"> Mark

Post by **FZRDude** » Tue Jun 14, 2005 3:34 pm

Yet you're building a turbo.... <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ...  There are some who call me........Tim? Top Speed = Mach 0.197 or so...  1994 FZR 1000 <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ...

EXUP Worldwide

cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

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Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

Re: cornering tips needed from experienced riders !

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