'89 EXUP Headlight Relays

Thermicman · Post by **Thermicman** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 11:16 am

Can anyone offer some advice please! Since I have owned my 89 EXUP (13 years), I have always thought the headlights as being pretty sh#t for a twin lamp set-up! First, I binned the 35/35W OEM bulbs for some lovely 100/80s. OOOOps! I fried one of the main wiring connectors under the tank and surprisingly, it didn't really make that much difference to the light output / beam. I re-did the wiring connector and then put in some Phillips 60/55s (with the acclaimed 30% extra light!) and have had them ever since. They're not bad but not great either, especially when compared with some of the latest headlights on newer bikes. Now I believe that I read somewhere on this forum that the voltage at the lamps is probably only 8-9 volts because there are no relays in the headlight circuit and the headlight switch and dimmer switch are having to carry the whole electrical load. My question is: has anyone actually fitted headlight relays to an 89 EXUP and if so, where did you mount them? Was the conversion worth it in terms of better light output? What colour wires went where (don't worry, I have a genuine Yamaha manual and can follow circuit diagrams)? Have you any other info that may be useful to me? Thanks guys!!

Nbot · Post by **Nbot** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 12:15 pm

I've got a 94' 1000 that I'd like to do the same to if anyone can spare the tip....I take it Thermicman that you are referring to the thread "headlight bulb replacement" in tech tips...i've got the xenon's as well...

Thermicman · Post by **Thermicman** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 4:06 am

Hi NBot, yeah, that's right, I was referring to the info in that thread. I have just noticed that there is a link to a wiring diagram for adding relays to an FJ. I think I'll give it a go and let the 'Hood know how I got on.....or not!!!<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)">

Exupilot · Post by **Exupilot** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 9:35 am

8-9v at the headlamp? I don't think so. Theres no resistors or voltage droppers in the circiut, bad connection could cause this but you should have full battery voltage (more when running as it's charging) Relays are a piece of cake to fit and you can put them anywhere, the more shielded from weather the better. Most decent relays have the circuit diagram with or on them. You'll need 2, one for dip, one for main, pick up the main feed from he battery, but DONT FORGET TO FUSE IT, else your exup might turn into Mr Crispy if a fault occurs. 10A fuse should be ample. Switched feed will be your origional headlamp feed and pick the neg up off the battery for a gaurenteed good earth. Feed out to your lamps. Rob

flyingcircus68 · Post by **flyingcircus68** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 7:32 pm

You have to consider both the source and sink when upgrading the head light circuit. If you just wire in relays and use the same ground wiring, You've only eliminated half the marginal ciruit ( no switches on ground, but wiring is still the same thin gauge). Keep in mind that these ponies are quickly turning into classics while we morph into old men and we both end up with parts that don't work as they used to. I've seen near 9 volts on the feed (ground to battery) and almost 2 on the ground line on my lamps before I took it apart and remedied all the problems. I had to clean the pads on the ignition switch, HI/LOW, replace corroded connectors and replace a ferrule that branched all the sub-circuits from the main fuse. I'm sure that my problems were more typical than isolated. My harness actually used to get pretty hot on the harness just downstream of the fuse box and also at the connector to the headlamps. Both were caused by corrosion derived resistance. If you plan on using relays make sure that they are rated for 15 amps to handle the pair of 60 watt lamps and wire in the coils to the existing source and sink leads that feed your lamps. You then need to run 12 to 10 gauge wire, fused at the battery to the switched terminals on the relay. Use the same gauge wire to sink back to the battery. Remember that the fuse is sized to protect the wire running to the load and not the load itself, but you also want the fuse to pop before sustaining damage to the alternator. In my opinion, 15 amps would be the most prudent. This mod would definitely brighten up your night ride. I would not recommend using a 20 amp relay to allow you to run 100W bulbs. For anyone who has made the mistake of melting their connectors by putting these babies in, Your wimpy harness probably kept your alternator from frying. The alternators on the 87 model is rated for 28 amps (anyone can feel free to chime in on the later models) output at 5000 rpm. you obviously will get much less at lower rpm and at idle, your depleting the battery even with the stock bulbs. I don't think you want to strain your charging system just to be able to blind oncoming traffic.

Nbot · Post by **Nbot** » Fri Jun 18, 2004 3:20 am

finally an answer...thanx for your time fellas, I'll let you know how it goes<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)">

Thermicman · Post by **Thermicman** » Fri Jun 18, 2004 3:35 am

I second NBot'<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"> s thanks to you two guys! Useful info from pilots who have obviously "been there, done that...."!!!

orionburn · Post by **orionburn** » Fri Jul 02, 2004 8:30 am

Just wondering if you guys made any progress with this yet. Thinking about doing the same thing as well. I got bad night vision and need all I can get out of headlights. Nate - '87 FZR1000 "I have come here to chew bubble-gum and kick ass...and I'm all out of bubble-gum." <img src="http://members.optusnet.com.au/lanemeye ... karate.gif" style="border:0;"/>

Nbot · Post by **Nbot** » Fri Jul 02, 2004 1:07 pm

not yet...in the middle of powder coating process, just finished carbs, figure the headlights next probably... '94 Fizzer 1000

Ton up · Post by **Ton up** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 7:11 pm

Your lights won't work so good if you powder coat them<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol">

Nbot · Post by **Nbot** » Tue Jul 06, 2004 10:39 pm

DOH!!!! (ha ha ha hahh) ........and fyi, my uncle tells me they make relays with fuse's built in to make the job easier. '94 Fizzer 1000Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... ot>Nbot</A> at: 7/7/04 5:11 am

flyingcircus68 · Post by **flyingcircus68** » Sun Jul 11, 2004 2:42 pm

I'd like to stress that the fuse needs to be at the beginning of the wire run to be effective. The most advantageous place to moun the relays is near the head lights, so there is no reason to buy relays with built in fuses. The last thing you want to do is have an unfused 10 ga. wire run that could potentially fry your electrical system.

R What · Post by **R What** » Tue Jul 27, 2004 3:23 pm

FYI guys, I added relays to the lighting system on my 1998 FZR because I was shocked by the poor lighting and surprised there were no relays anywhere. My ignition switch wiring was also getting very HOT and starting to burn since it was supporting 100% of the bikes electrical. No good! Wired-up a relay for the high and low beams and even I was shocked at the results. Standard bulbs show an amazing improvement - Bright white light - At least a 50% increase. You cannot look at the bike's lights anymore, especially on the high setting. EVERY FZR needs this mod. Period! SCOTT

R What · Post by **R What** » Tue Jul 27, 2004 3:31 pm

Where were a few helpful tips I can share that I neglected in the previous post: 1) Note that the wiring to the RIGHT side headlight is linked over to the LEFT side, so the switching voltage must come from the right. Then, it must continue on to the path which lights the high-beam warning light as well. 2) I used 14-gauge wiring and ran seperate wires for EACH positive bulb terminal. 3) I grounded the bulbs at the tank cover mounting bolts - Short path and well-hidden. 4) I placed the relays under the LEFT rear side cover, next to the turn signal relay. Have about 50 feet of wire on hand. More than you'd expect. 5) I passed the wires through the LEFT frame pass-through which is well grommeted and easy to route under the tank cover and to the rear cover. Note: This modification STOPPED the dimming of the system lights anytime another lamp was activated (i.e., dimming of the headlights when you tap the brakes) and I'm sure this is because less voltage is dropped to heat along wires that are too small. Plus, better grounds.

Post by **FZRDude** » Tue Jul 27, 2004 7:54 pm

Nice post and Welcome to the Hood. Tim <img src="http://img69.photobucket.com/albums/v20 ...   Has anyone seen my keys? Dir. of Entertainment<a href="http://eddieandthecruisersmc.com" target="top"> Eddie & the Cruisers</a> '94 FZR 1000

Nbot · Post by **Nbot** » Tue Aug 03, 2004 3:42 pm

Well I finally got the wiring relay done, well at least I wrangled a buddy of mine to help me do it...an old Army mechanic/engineer...Sure enough the lows and high beams were only getting 10 amps at the lights (9.85~10.15). However there's only 12 amps at the battery, I don't know if Yami set 'em up to run conservatively? Or do I have other problems? Anyhow got an inline fuse with the hot up the left side of the bike and the ground coming back on the right side. <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/ ... CN4735.jpg" style="border:0;"/> The 15 amp blew immediately so I'm running a 20 inline with the 12 gauge wire. Unfortunately my friend only wanted to relay up the high beams and I couldn't talk him into doing high and low together (and since I don't know much here I was at his mercy). Nonetheless, got a double switch? relay where the hot comes in from batt., then the wire from the low/high switch comes to the relay to activate it with two outs for each headlight--kept the stock gauge to the bulbs. (and the ground out of relay hooked into my new louder horn as well and then back to the battery). Now I've got ~11.8 amps at the bulbs and my highway driving is definitely more lit up!! The 20 amp isn't blowing and my stock gauge wires to the bulbs from the relay aren't getting warm either... Thanks for all your help in this fellas! <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/ ... oticon.gif" style="border:0;"/> Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... ot>Nbot</A> at: 8/3/04 1:51 pm

flyingcircus68 · Post by **flyingcircus68** » Wed Aug 04, 2004 8:41 am

The reason why your 15 amp fuse was blowing has to do with the in-rush current when you turn the lights on. You used the ATO type blade fuse, which is a fast blow and ends up being tripped by the in- rush current. If you used the glass type 3AG normal blow fuse, it would not blow with a 15 amp rating. I don't think that you will have a problem with using a 20 amp ATO fuse, so stick with it.

barneyfzr600 · Post by **barneyfzr600** » Wed Aug 04, 2004 7:18 pm

If you guys want the relay diagram, check it out <a href="http://www.fj1200.com/mods/Headlight_Relay_Instr_FJ.pdf" target="top">here</a>. You will need acrobat to view it though!<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/nerd.gif ALT="8o"> <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/nerd.gif ALT="8o"> I be ridin in the Cali Bay:'88 FZR1K'01 ZX-6R

barneyfzr600 · Post by **barneyfzr600** » Sun Aug 08, 2004 9:53 pm

Just finished my relay job. The outcome is so incredible<img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... ananna.gif ALT=":bananna"> The brightness doubled and i'm able to aim my lights further out now. Everyone should do this mod. Bought a pair of blue tinted bulbs off of ebay for $9 and that includes S&H. 55W/60W is what I got. Looks really cool too. Instead of the 4 post relays, I used the 5 post relays. The extra spade is hot when the bike is off. Thinkin of adding led's under the tank. Switched of course. Photos will be up next week.<img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Banger.gif ALT=":headbanger"> <img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Cheers.gif ALT=":cheers"> Gotta love the new emoticons!! I be ridin in the Cali Bay Area:'88 FZR1K'01 ZX-6R

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