Valve Clearance
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Valve Clearance
Was checking my valves last night and I the intake valves on #2 & #3 are out of spec and need to be adjusted. My question is on the other valves. For example I have found the exhaust valves to allow a feeler gage .009 to slide freely, and .010 to grab just a bit. I have other valves that are just in my a .001 also. So if I have the cams out should I just adjust all the valves to nomial? Or just adjust the ones that are out? <br><br> <p></p><i></i>
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- Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2003 6:43 am
source for adjusting pads
Any one know of a good source for the adjusting pads??<br> <p></p><i></i>
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Re: source for adjusting pads
If you find that you are in tolerance, but close to the limit, leave it. That's the purpose of having a defined acceptable range. Since you have many miles on it, parts have mated to each other and the wear rate is very slow. There are two types of wear that have an affect on the clearance. valve seat wear, and lifter/lobe wear. Seat wear tightens the clearance, lifter/lobe wear loosens it up. So the net change in clearance depends on what is wearing faster. On the exhaust side, its better to be loose than tight. You want good seat contact to shed the heat built up during the exhaust cycle. <p></p><i></i>
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most are tight
<br>The manual says .008-.012 for exhaust valves and mine are running .009. They are in spec so I should just leave them be. I tend to agree with that, but if as you said loose is better for the exhaust, and if I'm going to have the cams out to adjust the ones out of tolerance, would it be better adjust toward the other end of the range? <br><br>As it sits the bike has around 50k on it and the compression on each cylinder is between 190 and 200 psi. Not bad for never having the engine opened up and this will be the first time I will have had to make any valve adjustments. I think I'm just going to opt to adjust the out of spec intake valves and call it good. Unless someone has a reason to do different. <br><br><br>Great site by the way. I <br><br> <p></p><i></i>
Re: most are tight
Hi<br><br>I got my 26,000 mile service recently and 12 shims needed changing. They cost £3.45 each in the UK! I'd stick with what you got - don't fix it if it ain't broke...<br><br>Happy riding, looks like the end of the season here in north Scotland. <p></p><i></i>
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Re: most are tight
I would not adust the clearance if the range is .008 - .012 and you are .009. If it were reading somewhere between .007- .008 I definitely would change;whereas, if the reading were somewhere between .012-.013 I would probably leave it alone. <p></p><i></i>