EXUP Worldwide

FYI - the Tace uses a different set of carbs than the FZR, which would explain the different pilot jets. I know because I have a set that I bought with the intent of mounting on my 87, but they would require much more work than the 91-95, so I went with that.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :smokin --><img...

I would say that if it's only noticable in the top end, it's probably fuel starvation. Redline in first gear is quick enough that a marginal condition would not show up. In the higher gears, the sustained high demand for fuel drops the fuel level to the point that it misfires from bieng lean.<!--EZC...

When I went to get my replacement shifter shaft oil seal, they gave me the wrong part. Looks like a stocking number error where the cross reference seal OD is 18mm vs. the 22 mm that it needs to be.<br><br>original p/n: 93109-12075-00<br>cross referenced p/n: 93109-12053-00<br><br>correct p/n: 93102...

P.S.<br><br>I don't have an Exup, so I can be ignorant to some of the minor changes that occured after '88. I believe that it was posted by some that the exup oil pump is a two stage pump to run the oil cooler, so you will probably need to disconnect plumbing from the pump prior to removing it.<!--E...

mine has been leaving drops of oil on the garage floor, so I just cleaned everything, went for a ride, and found a trail of oil coming from the shift shaft. <br><br>Wash everything down, dust it with baby powder, and go for a short ride. Pop the cover off and you will see a stain from the oil on the...

If you have a Yam shop manual, then open to the page where during motor assembly the shifter and oil pump are being installed. If you look at the shift drum, you'll notice the detent arm which has a torsion spring and a roller that rides on the pins of the shift drum detent cam. That torsion spring ...

Nope, just the clutch basket to get to the detent<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :mg3 --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... neGun3.gif ALT=":mg3"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> portion of the shift drum. <p></p><i></i>

I've been running around with the factory pro shift kit for about 13 years and it makes the shifter a bit notchier and forces you to shift more completely. Saves wear and tear on the dogs and it's not cumbersome, just more positive feel in the shifter.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :8 --><img src=http://...

The Dude is right - the battery voltage plays a big role in keeping the pump going and the alternator from straining. Replacing it is a good idea.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

could be your fuel pump too. Try topping off the bike to see if it runs withou problems until it's 2/3 full. If that's the case, the pumps quitting on you. <p></p><i></i>

I had a dynojet stage 1 jet kit on my original carbs (87) and I realize that the exup carbs are different and will require bigger jets, but it should be fairly close. <br><br>there were 3 sets of jets and they recommended starting with the leanest and jetting up, if required. the jets started at 098...

If you're interested in dabbling with Micros, you might consider buying an STK500 development board. Its got a lot of features to plug and play during experimenting and allows you to program chips on the board, or in your circuit. The board goes for $100 and bascom goes for ~$140. Kind of cheap for ...

I have the bascom program and I like it. There is a pretty good support group too. I've thought about doing an ignitor, but that was a brief thought. I don't think that I would make a buck on it, and it would be quite a bit of effort, so I moved on to projects with more potential.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON...

You might be interested in the following:<br><br>Bascom AVR<br><br>Pretty easy to learn. Atmel AVR processors are quick (10mips) They are loaded with features and a bargain to boot. I can't see why you couldn't use one as the basis for your ignitor box. You could use a table look up to map the ignit...

I work as an engineer at a company that's been recently swallowed up by a big pnumatics/hydraulics conglomerate and we are going through the assimilation process<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START 0] --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/alien.gif ALT="0]"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Drag...

I've gotten curious about possibly doing this upgrade myself, so I did a little investigation. I checked my 98 R1 manual to review the wiring diagram and the check on all the sensors that feed information in. The following are what I've come up with:<br><br>temp sensor - variable resistance, feeds d...

The color code is based on the numbers that you find on the left hand side of the crank and on the back of the upper half of the crankcase. The five digit numbers are for the main journals of the crank, and the 4 digit is for the con. rod pins.<br><br>the main journal bearings are determeined by:<br...

I heard of people mentioning it on the R1 forum. It's just a circuit that fools the ignitor into thinking that a motor is still moving the pot to its target position (measured voltage). I'ts pretty easy to do, and I would be in the market, if I thought there would be enough money to be worthwile.<!-...

That's a kick ass time - if it's normally aspirated. I'm sure that you had to do some chassis mods too. BTW, have you been able to do the measurement for me? <p></p><i></i>

the springs are fairly light, so you could use just muscle to compress them. When the piston is at tdc, there is very little room for the valve to drop. I've done it this way in the frame and it was a fairly painless process. Of course, I had to make a special tool that allowed me to compress and re...