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Polishing Rims

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:54 pm
by kiwi60
Well, not exactly polishing them, see, I've stripped the paint off the 17" back rim and I really like the look of it - it's much the same as the finish on the Genesis frames - the spokes are stippled and the rim part is machined - beautitful in a workmans race bike type of way, well I think so anyway.

So, those of you who have had your rims polished, did you have the outside of the rim (the part that the tyre mounts onto), sealed in any way after the paint was stripped off or leave it bare ali?

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:51 pm
by hotcam
I left it bare and it corroded and got stained with brake dust really quickly,
next time I clean it up I intend to clearcoat it.

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 8:08 pm
by spook
If you like the native look Kiwi, either have them saturn or flat clear powder coated, or anodized clear. Either will create an easy to clean corrosion and scum barrier. For powder or any type of coating preparation is the key, have them blasted either water jet for shiney saturn, or grit for flat finish. Let's see some pics :)

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:58 pm
by kiwi60
Hmm, sounds like a bit of 2 pot semi gloss clear might be the go, that way I can touch it up when the ham fisted tyre fitters bash them around - like they always do :roll:

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 11:34 pm
by kiwi60
Looks like this might just do the job:

http://www.restosupplies.co.nz/underhood.html

Eastwood Diamond Clear Metal Aerosol 11 oz (about 1/2 way down the page)

I'll get the front wheel stripped next weekend then do them both at once, it's a prat of a job and needs 4-5 goes with very aggressive paint stripper, but the look will be worth it :banana

Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:09 pm
by Stig
I left the tyre on and just polished the very edge.

Theres no coating or laquer. I spray the rims with wd40 if the weathers foul and then wipe them down when I get back. Now days, the bike stays in .period but the wd40 tricks worked for years when I only has a bike as transport

heres How I did mine

http://www.exup1000.co.uk/workshop/blingwheels.htm

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:09 am
by kiwi60
Great write up there stig, and I like the result, but I'm definatley going for the matt look all over this time, however, that could look really good on the SV...

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:51 am
by spook
Kiwi, I still reckon power coating is the go. I'm a bit of a convert now I have had a bunch of it done on my TL project. My local guy does wheels for a fixed price of $40 each, that includes blasting and masking etc. For the cost I don't even bother getting out the paint. It adheres better than paint to aluminum, and it looks great.

When I did the fz wheels I striped prepped and painted them myself. It took near 2 days and the materials cost me more than the whole powder coating job on the TL.

When I'm doing wheels I use piece of 1/2 inch threaded rod, nuts, and a couple of large washers with rubber glued to them to seal the bearing area off, and that way you don't need to remove bearings if you blast them, etc.

They have saturn and matt clear powders, and you can be doing something else while they are being done :) If you want to paint the POR range of paints is great. They are a moisture cure poly, and the adhesion is second to none.

http://www.ppcco.com.au/topcoat_glistenpc.htm

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:46 am
by Fatdog
spook wrote:Kiwi, I still reckon power coating is the go. I'm a bit of a convert now I have had a bunch of it done on my TL project. My local guy does wheels for a fixed price of $40 each, that includes blasting and masking etc. For the cost I don't even bother getting out the paint. It adheres better than paint to aluminum, and it looks great.

When I did the fz wheels I striped prepped and painted them myself. It took near 2 days and the materials cost me more than the whole powder coating job on the TL.

When I'm doing wheels I use piece of 1/2 inch threaded rod, nuts, and a couple of large washers with rubber glued to them to seal the bearing area off, and that way you don't need to remove bearings if you blast them, etc.

They have saturn and matt clear powders, and you can be doing something else while they are being done :) If you want to paint the POR range of paints is great. They are a moisture cure poly, and the adhesion is second to none.

http://www.ppcco.com.au/topcoat_glistenpc.htm

Top tip that Spook! :banana
I am looking to get my wheels powder coated (getting a bit tatty now) but was thinking along the lines that I would need to remove / replace the bearings in order to do so.
This certainly saves time and money (both of which I,am short of at the mo!)

Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 3:15 am
by kiwi60
Kiwi, I still reckon power coating is the go. I'm a bit of a convert now I have had a bunch of it done on my TL project. My local guy does wheels for a fixed price of $40 each, that includes blasting and masking etc. For the cost I don't even bother getting out the paint. It adheres better than paint to aluminum, and it looks great.

When I did the fz wheels I striped prepped and painted them myself. It took near 2 days and the materials cost me more than the whole powder coating job on the TL.

When I'm doing wheels I use piece of 1/2 inch threaded rod, nuts, and a couple of large washers with rubber glued to them to seal the bearing area off, and that way you don't need to remove bearings if you blast them, etc.

They have saturn and matt clear powders, and you can be doing something else while they are being done Smile If you want to paint the POR range of paints is great. They are a moisture cure poly, and the adhesion is second to none.
There's a company not too far from work who have a good reputation for powder coating (they do all the Ventura pack racks) and I'll give them a call and get a price, painting can be such a pain in the a$$, and to be honest, I'm feeling a bit lazy at the moment ;)