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Degreeing Cam's help

Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2010 8:59 am
by McFizzer
Ive been thinking about it and still have been trying to learn as much as possible about engines as possible and in a whole and for the most part "understand" the functions of everything INSIDE the engine and how the work.

I know That degreeing or advancing Cam's has to do with at which time the cam's open the valves during a certain part of the stroke but can someone please explain how it's done? I really want to learn the process's of engine building to the max. It's getting closer to that time to tear into my motor and Im not worried in particular about it but I want to know how to perform these tricks and how to do them. Im pretty young but I love this stuff, I WANT to build engines to the max. I have my YZF 750 cams to put in and I know they're a dead bolt in with increases all across the board but I want to get the maximum out of it.

I follow all you guy's posts about building these crazy motors, the 911 in particular that I've always heard about and love seeing get done and i understand you guys have been doing it for awhile but I figure the earlier on I learn everything the better.

Cheers and thanks for all the input guys!

-Ant

Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2010 2:25 pm
by kiwi60
We need Duke22 to chime in here as he's studied this disipline for some time, and degreeing may have possibly been a factor in the bent valves last weekend, however, that motor was built to VERY exact tolerances and clearances.

Personally, I've stuck to the factory cam sprockets and used the std cam sprocket holes in the 1040; and seemed to have lucked out with an extremely strong motor that has more power than the rider is currently able to utilize :)

Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:47 am
by spook
Some reading here under "Degreeing in your camshaft"

http://www.webcamshafts.com/

Some specs and info on FZR etc cams from megacycle:

Image

Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:42 pm
by duke22
Here's another good one:

http://www.muzzys.com/articles/lobe_centers.html

When you decide to do it, you need slotted sprockets, a degree wheel, a good dial indicator and lots and lots of patience. When you've finished, pull the head off again and double check your valve to piston clearances. As I found you need to get it RIGHT, not just close...