clutch master/slave question

haunter · Post by **haunter** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 12:03 am

so it seems my preEXUP's clutch master/slave cylidners need rebuilt.

any options for upgrades or should I just buy the kits and rebuild them.

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 12:34 am

don't do the rebuild just suck it up and buy the new slave

haunter · Post by **haunter** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 9:54 am

there a good place to get one?

damn thing has needed alot of work lately

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 3:20 pm

I just let myself get raped at the dealer for that one as it's dealer specific, not like the aftermarket would have it available anyways even if they did make it for our machines. It was even a little worse for me as I tried the rebuild kit first which didn't make a damn bit of difference for me. Bike bandit lists the push lever "comp" for 76 and change for an 88. That's not to bad really.

If it makes you feel any better, I dropped more than a grand on fatty this last week to put myself even further in the hole, and I'm just gettin' started yet too. Crank is going to Falicon soon for another 6 hundred plus!!!

haunter · Post by **haunter** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 3:36 pm

GAH!

96+66 USD seems a bit steep, esp with the rebuild kits at 50 total.

what mm is the rod, anyone know?

orionburn · Post by **orionburn** » Fri May 11, 2007 8:05 am

sickle44 wrote:don't do the rebuild just suck it up and buy the new slave

I've heard that from a lot of people as well that have tried rebuild kits, and not only on these bikes. Hate to say it but yeah, you're probably better off buying a new one, or at least finding a decent used one on eBay. May seem like a lot up front, but you have to keep in mind if you buy the rebuild kits and have no luck with that then you're out that money plus having to buy new in the end.

Let me check my box of goodies at home, Haunter. I think I may have an extra slave at home. If so you can have it. Another member sent me a box of leftovers a few months back after he sold his Fizzer. I'll check and let you know....that is if you're still looking for one.

dragracer1951 · Post by **dragracer1951** » Fri May 11, 2007 8:18 am

What are you doin on here Nate? Don't you have a test to go study for or sumpin?

haunter · Post by **haunter** » Fri May 11, 2007 8:22 am

i picked up a full set off a 94 YZF750, but I have no idea if the slave will fit, I know the master is supposed to work though.....

won't be here till the 20th-ish though, coming from the great white north

question for you guys about this.....

I was putting her through the paces yesterday on the way to work and the clutch seems to be slippin up around 7k+ in second atleast, not sure on any ohter geras....

this related to my isues I assume?

ExupElvis · Post by **ExupElvis** » Fri May 11, 2007 8:51 am

haunter wrote:clutch seems to be slippin up around 7k+ in second at least,

My old clutch used to do that, when I took it apart it was complete junk.
Broken plates & stuff are what I found...........................it might be time to look at the hard parts if you haven't already.
The '89 & '90 model year stock clutches are really bad for that, but any clutch assembly with the mid pack belville spring will come apart eventually.

haunter · Post by **haunter** » Fri May 11, 2007 10:56 am

maaaaaaaaaaybe. my buddy had it apart before I bought it off of him, and it had a bad plate that he replaced. maybe the 1 new one with all the old ones relaly funked it up.

what replacement clutch is recommended?

EBC? I have seen a few others too, DP, Barnett(sp?)

and where the cheapest place to get what!

I looked at the diagram from the fiche and was a bit confused on what all was really needed too.....so much stuff dumped into one place!

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Fri May 11, 2007 6:13 pm

I'd do the Barnett myself Haunter. Just remember, you get what you pay for, so if something is even $50 bucks more than something else, what is that $50 worth to you over the course of the clutch's entire life.

Same as what oriunburn said:

I've heard that from a lot of people as well that have tried rebuild kits, and not only on these bikes. Hate to say it but yeah, you're probably better off buying a new one, or at least finding a decent used one on eBay. May seem like a lot up front, but you have to keep in mind if you buy the rebuild kits and have no luck with that then you're out that money plus having to buy new in the end.

Only reason I know is cause my new clutch slave cost me the new part and the attempt at the rebuild so it ended up being an extra $20.

I wouldn't even bother with the used one, although your slipping issues don't sound like slave issues to me. To test if your slave is done, pull the clutch in all the way and begin a slow long rev and hold it up to about 8 or 9k for a bit. If you start moving while the lever is still pulled in, it's the slave is gone!

kiwi60 · Post by **kiwi60** » Fri May 11, 2007 10:17 pm

Gidday,

I replaced the clutch plates in the race bike about 6 months ago when it was starting to show the same symptoms as yours.

In the end I went for Yamaha original clutch plates - I figured the originals had lasted for 18 years so there can't be too much wrong with them, and they are providing great service with no problems.

Make sure you replace your clutch springs at the same time (they are probably as old as the bike) and check all the steel plates for flatness and repalce if required.

If the clutch hub is showing significant notching them it may be time for an update there too.

Oh yeah, check for airbubbles down in the slave cylinder, do this by bleeding it and tapping the cylinder at the same time (it pays to have someone else handy, unless your real good with your feet), and this should dislodge the bubbles. I'm not sure, but you may be able to take the slave cylinder off and move it around a bit with out loosing fluid, and this would also help dislodge any air bubbles.

Cheers

ExupElvis · Post by **ExupElvis** » Sat May 12, 2007 10:28 am

haunter wrote:what replacement clutch is recommended?

The '94 / '95 OEM spec clutch was the one that finally worked.
Install it with the Factory Pro oil mod on the hub and it should be good to go.

haunter · Post by **haunter** » Sat May 12, 2007 2:24 pm

ExupElvis wrote:
haunter wrote:what replacement clutch is recommended?

The '94 / '95 OEM spec clutch was the one that finally worked.
Install it with the Factory Pro oil mod on the hub and it should be good to go.

what exactly is the oil mod?

EDIT:

this?

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/clutch_y.html

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Sat May 12, 2007 11:16 pm

that'd be the one

orionburn · Post by **orionburn** » Tue May 22, 2007 6:26 pm

dragracer1951 wrote:What are you doin on here Nate? Don't you have a test to go study for or sumpin?

I did....and got A's in both my classes. Summer break is here!

haunter · Post by **haunter** » Tue May 22, 2007 6:56 pm

orionburn wrote:
dragracer1951 wrote:What are you doin on here Nate? Don't you have a test to go study for or sumpin?

I did....and got A's in both my classes. Summer break is here!

hell yeah!

but I might be takin 2 summer classes

dragracer1951 · Post by **dragracer1951** » Tue May 22, 2007 7:01 pm

Right On Nate

haunter · Post by **haunter** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 5:29 pm

well finally got a master cylinder...

\hey sickle, did you get a new lever and stuff? Its inside the stupid dotted lines so I figured it would show up with the MC but no luck....

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 9:38 pm

I think I now understand your question

Did I get a new lever when I did my clutch M/C? No, all they give you are the M/C guts. In fact, what they gave me the first time was the Brake M/C which is very similar but not quite, so I ended up getting a free Brake M/C rebuild kit out of the deal.

Although, I don't think the M/C was at all problamatic, it was all the slave for me, did you try the rebuild or did you just poney up and do the entire slave. I just ordered one for my buddy's intruder. Things got 280,000km on it. Unbelievable!