Prepping for a track day.

Want the specs for a valve adjustment? Can you provide tips for bleeding brakes? Please use this section.
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RiceRocket1
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Prepping for a track day.

Post by RiceRocket1 »

Recently participated in a track day at NHIS ( New Hampshire International Speedway). The group that put the event on was, <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.tonystrackdays.com/" target="top">Tony's Track Days</a><!--EZCODE LINK END-->. Tony and the instructors were first rate and the event was held in a very professional manor. This was my first track day, but definitely not the last. I just want to thank Tony and his instructors for a great learning experience. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :riding --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... iker_3.gif ALT=":riding"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Now for a little in-site on what you should do to prep a bike for a track day if you have never done so:<br><br>1. Completely go over your bike and make sure that EVERYTHING is in working order.<br><br>2. Head light must be taped over, unless it has the Protective plastic film over it. (Also recommend unplugging the headlights so as not to bake the tape on and make removal harder)<br><br>3. Tape over the tail light. NO light is allowed to shine through. (Once again I also unplug the light)<br><br>4. Tape over the directionals. ( I remove them, less to replace if you should go down)<br><br>5. Tape over the mirror glass, fold back and secure the mirrors. (I remove them and use plastic wire ties to secure the fairing, less to replace)<br><br>6. Go over the bike and check to see that EVERY bolt, screw and nut is tight.<br><br>7. Check tires. (track pressure between 30 and 34 psi) They must have 50% or better life left to them and no cracking. If not get a nice new set of rubber. Don't worry about trying to run them in before hand. They get run in very quickly at the track. (During prep of my bike found a nail in the rear tire with 750 mile on it, had to replace it and break it in on the track. After 15 laps of follow the leader with the instructors and one 20 min session the tire was good to go)<br><br>8. Check your break pads. 50% or better life.<br><br>9. Check your chain and sprockets. MUST be in good condition with no rust or visible wear. Chain tension for the track will have slightly more slack than for the street about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inches.<br><br>10. Tony did not require removing the coolant and changing to water only. Some may.<br><br>11. Check that the throttle snaps closed. This is a common failing point.<br><br>12. Fill the tank and bring an extra can of fuel. You don't want to pay for fuel at the track to much $$$.<br><br><br><br><br>RIDER prep. <br><br>Start drinking plenty of water about three days before. You will become quickly dehydrated if you don't.<br><br>(copied from the web site)<br><br>MINIMUM GEAR REQUIREMENTS:<br><br>1. HELMET - An UNDAMAGED, full-faced helmet with at least a DOT rating. We prefer to see SNELL rated helmets, but it is not mandatory. A high-quality, flip-face helmet is allowed - but it must always be locked in the down position when on the track. NOTE: If your helmet is more than 5 years old, please replace it. A helmet's ability to protect you degrades over time, even if it has not been involved in a crash.<br><br>2. GLOVES - Full leather gloves that are in excellent condition and leave NO EXPOSED SKIN on the hands or wrist.<br><br>3. BOOTS - Over the ankle boots, preferably motorcycle specific. HIGH TOP SNEAKERS are NOT ALLOWED!<br><br>4. LEATHERS - Full leathers are not mandatory, but are highly encouraged... <br><br>Kevlar type suits or jackets are also acceptable.<br><br>If you don't have leathers or some other kind of full riding gear, you can ride in jeans and a leather jacket. However, you must double up on the jeans or have some other form of hip/butt protection underneath. You must also have some sort of knee protection. "Rollerblading" type pads work well. Surprisingly, this combination will work pretty good if you don't spend a long time sliding on the pavement.<br><br><br><br><br> <p></p><i></i>

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djalbin
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Water Wetter

Post by djalbin »

Jim,<br>You can usually use a product called Water Wetter for those tracks that require you to replace the anti-freeze. <br>Don <p></p><i></i>

Nbot
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Thanks

Post by Nbot »

Thanks for the tips, I think I might be headed (hopefully!) to my first track day next week at Pueblo in CO...they don't require the coolant swap, so that's good...my rear pads are a little low, but everything seems to be in allright order. <p></p><i></i>

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FZRDude
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Re: Cool

Post by FZRDude »

Cool NBot, take someone along to be you pit crew and potographer. <p>Tim<br><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... <!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:red;font-family:times new roman;font-size:small;"> Has anyone seen my keys?</span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:white;font-family:times new roman;font-size:small;">Dir. of Entertainment<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://eddieandthecruisersmc.com" target="top"> Eddie & the Cruisers</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:blue;font-family:times new roman;font-size:small;">'94 FZR 1000</span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

RiceRocket1
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good catch

Post by RiceRocket1 »

Don't know how I missed that. I pre-read the post and didn't catch that I missed the Water Wetter before adding it.<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Jim <p></p><i></i>

jjs777
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nice

Post by jjs777 »

good info on the prep list <p>-John<br>95 FZR1000<br>90 FZR1000</p><i></i>

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