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Oh ye knowledgable brothers...<br><br>Swapping the rear pads out this weekend. Couple quickie questions...can you get the rotors turned like you can on a car? Rear isn't in too bad of shape. Few roughies and groves, but nothing horrible.<br><br>So...is it advisable to get them turned every time you put new pads on? (assuming you <!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>can</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--> turn them).<br><br>One other thing...why in the hell do rotors cost so much!? Is it just due to the fact of how they are machined or what? Dear God I could put 4 new rotors on my car and it would still be less than 1 rotor for my fizzer.<br><br>Btw...I did try some searching for this subject but didn't come up with much. Gotta love our search engine... <p>Nate<br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>87 FZR 1000</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><br>We got clearence, Clarence. Roger, Roger. What's our vector, Victor?</p><i></i>

Yes you can skim discs but be careful who does it. Generally they are held on a magnetic bed but if you are trying to get rid of a warp then the magnet if it is turned up too much can pull the warp out, only to bounce back when released.<br><br>If you just want to remove smallish grooves etc then find a friend with a lathe hold the disc from the centre & hold some semi aggressive sandpaper on a block against it. This shouldn’t work as well as it does.- ok tell that to the discs I've done.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :\ --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/ohwell.gif ALT=":\"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Better still I have been told is the same trick but with a rotory grinder with a sanding disc held against the spinning brake rotor (sort of wavy & softish) is supposed to do a good job & leave a nice ground pattern.<br><br>Neither of these 2 methods will remove warping of course, something Yam front discs are a bit more than prone to I’m afraid. With the rear I try to use hard as pads & purposely bleed air into the system as they are too powerful I thinks.<br> <p></p><i></i>

Okay here's the hack method ( oh ye of hacking...yes the hack method works for many things...much to the demise of perfectionists)<br><br>whatever I just said above...<br><br>If the grooves are not really really bad....and you would know the difference...just sand blast them and be done with it. And/Or just take fine emery cloth and rough'em up. Then bed the new pads in. There's some tried and true methods of bedding new pads in. I ran across it a few times. This assumes they are not warped...and I suspect you would know for certain when applying the brakes anyhow. You could also go with the sintered metal pads....the ones that eat up your rotors. And believe me...normal cruisers are not gonna eat your rotors up even with the the most aggressive of pads. I like to think I am a aggressive rider....but I doubt even I could kill a set of rotors with severe duty pads.<br><br>Sorry for the long post...just don;t want to see folks throw money away if not needed. Unless you have money to burn...mmmm burn....orionburn...maybe you do have cash to burn....ahh what the heck...go and get a set of galfers all the way around!<br> <p>-John</p><i></i>

Torque specs for the Caliper bracket? The 2 bolts on the fork leg? Anyone?<br> <p>Tim<br><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img69.photobucket.com/albums/v20 ... <!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em> Has anyone seen my keys?</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Dir. of Entertainment<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://eddieandthecruisersmc.com" target="top"> Eddie & the Cruisers</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em><!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>'94 FZR 1000</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

it has been posted before...but they are at or near 25ft/lbs for the two bolts that attach the calipers to the fork from 89-95 <p>-John</p><i></i>

Tim, sorry but I don't have the book on hand but I just did mine and ~25 like John says seems right as well as about ~32 or so for the fork bolts... <p></p><i></i>

Thanks<br> <p>Tim<br><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img69.photobucket.com/albums/v20 ... <!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em> Has anyone seen my keys?</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Dir. of Entertainment<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://eddieandthecruisersmc.com" target="top"> Eddie & the Cruisers</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em><!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>'94 FZR 1000</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

Don't turn your disc's in a lathe, the only method is to surface grind them, and if they're that bad, replace them.<br><br>By turning them the pad will naturally follow the direction of the cut, spiralling inward, this causes masses of vibration. Trust me, we've been there and it aint nice.<br>The method of spinning them and using an abrasive don't sound too bad, but don't cut them in a lathe.<br><br>The reason they're so expencive is because the manufacturers are robbing toerags.......<br><br>Rob <p></p><i></i>

By turning them the pad will naturally follow the direction of the cut, spiralling inward, this causes masses of vibration. Trust me, we've been there and it aint nice.<br><br><br><br><br>Uh........<br>I turn discs all the time. cross feed is about .003 per rev and a couple hundred sfm. You can't feel or see any tool marks<br>What IS hard to do though is to prevent runout on one side or the other.<br>The other thing that is a little dicey about turning discs is hard spots in the material that may not cut the same. Trueing warped discs is a PIA too<br>Jim<br> <p></p><i></i>

Just wondering...what brand of brake pads do you guys use or recommend?<br><br>Had the front wheel off this weekend to get new rubber put on. Pulled the calipers off and cleaned them up and checked the pads. They still have a good chunk of meat on them, so don't need to change them anytime soon. Mind you I'm not taking my bike to a track, so don't need anything super fancy. But was curious as to what you guys usually use.<br><br>Btw...on a side note. Been putting this off for awhile cause I knew it would be a chore. Some dumbass at one time painted the front calipers black. Did a really crap job of it as well. Should have taken pictures of them to show you guys...it was such a joke. Took about a hour and half per caliper to get them cleaned up to their original state. Least they look all purty now. <p><!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>Nate</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--><br><br><!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>87 FZR1000</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--><br><br><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:navy;"><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>There once was a man from Seattle, who jumped into his FZR saddle. He went into a bend, came out on his head, and now is really quite dim. His name is Tim, we committed a sin, oh why did we make him admin?</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></p><i></i>