Winterizing the Coolant system?

[Nbot]

Allright, I had flushed all the antifreeze out, then did a 1/2 distilled water to 1/2 distilled white vinegar to clean/flush the cooling system, then had water in there in anticipation for a track day/race school last weekend (which I didn't get to do b/c my parts didn't arrive in time;( Anyways, I drained the distilled water out today so that it doesn't turn into ice and wreak havoc.<br><br>My question is 1: Can I just leave the radiator/coolant system empty? I might do another track day later in Nov. and don't want to have to flush the antifreeze again. Is this a no-no b/c rust will form? Should I just refill w/ antifreeze/engine ice?<br><br>And if I can leave it empty, do I have to turn on the bike and let it warm up to operating temp so that the thermo switch opens up and lets the residual "pockets" of water work out? You know, if you're flushing your system, you have to drain it, then fill it w/ water and run the bike 5-10 minutes so that the antifreeze stuck in the engine/head/sleeves/whatever gets circulated (into the radiator?) so that you can then drain it again. I'm just trying to see if water might be stuck in some little pocket that it may freeze in and bust something up? Bad idea?.... <p><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:lime;font-size:medium;">Nbot</span><!--EZCODE FONT END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>'94 Fizzer Litre</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

[creed12r]

<br> If you leave the system empty, corrosion will form due to the fact that the metal parts are exposed to air.<br> So my advice would be to re-fill with an anti-freeze mix, run the bike up to working temp ( fan on and off twice ) then re-fill the rad to the top when it's cooled down, it means that you will have to drain/refill when you do another track day, but what the hell. <p></p><i></i>

[RiceRocket1]

You might want to try this, <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.engineice.cc/products.html" target="top">Engine Ice</a><!--EZCODE LINK END-->. It is a bit more pricey, about $16 per 1/2 gallon.<br><br>I will be putting it in my bike during winter prep. My buddy uses it in his race and street bikes and loves it. <p>Jim<br><br>95 FZR1000</p><i></i>

[Nbot]

Yeah, I've been looking at that engine ice, only problem is local track doesn't allow it....but thanks Creed, I figured that would be a problem. <p><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:lime;font-size:medium;">Nbot</span><!--EZCODE FONT END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>'94 Fizzer Litre</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... ot>Nbot</A> at: 10/26/04 9:14 am<br></i>

[jjs777]

Okay this question is for someone adept at electrical fundamentals. RiceRocket ?<br><br>Okay...soo....<br><br><br>I have three motorcycle batteries. Let's assume they are identical. I have read features of some battery chargers...trickle chargers....battery tenders....battery maintaniers...that some offer connecting several batteries togther to trickle charge.<br><br>If I have joe smith battery chaerger from Target, and it does not state anything like connecting mulitple batteries together...can I just go ahead and do it ?<br><br>Would I connect in series or parallel ? I suspect parrallel for the obvious reasons of not affecting resistance. What'd I say?<br><br>Help! <p>-John<br>95 FZR1000<br>90 FZR1000</p><i></i>

[RiceRocket1]

Connect them in parallel, that way you keep the voltage at 12 volts. This also increases the current capacity, adds the amp hr totals of them (say three 10 amp hr batteries would equal one 30 amp hr at 12 volts) Connecting them in series, voltage of the batteries add up 12, 24, 36 and so on but the current capacity would stay unchanged. <p>Jim<br><br>95 FZR1000</p><i></i>