best way to winterize

mattlefler · Post by **mattlefler** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 12:39 pm

getting ready for winter here in the Inland Northwest. Whats the best way to winterize? Ive heard drain the oil, change the oil, drain the oil and leave the old filter then change out in the spring..blah blah and blah. Looking for the word from the official resource of the Brotherhood. I figure the bike will sit from now until March or so depending on Ma Nature. Garage isnt heated(yet) so itll get cold. I was thinking about dropping the coolant as well as its still OEM from 2000. Battery is strong, so leave it in on tender or out on tender?? Help a brother out please.

Thanks for the advice,

Matt

Stig · Post by **Stig** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:53 pm

make sure you add some fuel stabilizer to the tank and run it into the whole carbs setup. This'll stop it turning to crap over the winter. IT DOES WORK!

and after its run into the carbs top the tank right up to the brim. If there's petrol in there the moisture can't get in.
As for coolant...personnally, i'd renew before the winter with recommemnded strength for your regional temps. You then know the mix is up to the job :cool

MadHaqr9 · Post by **MadHaqr9** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 9:59 pm

Everyone I've talked to say to change oil then change oil and filter again in spring. Definitely top off the tank to avoid condensation. As for the tender, I'd run it at least a few times over the winter just to keep the battery in top shape. If you have stands I'd put it up on them just to prevent getting flat spots on the rubber.

Personally, if it gets above 35-40 with no water on the road, I put some thermals on under the leathers and go. Makes winter prep much simpler and if I didn't ride in the cold the riding season would only be about 3-4 months around here. (It was cold through the 1st week of June and we're not getting above 70 most days already.

)

djalbin · Post by **djalbin** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:58 pm

Matt,

Here's an article with some winterizing tips

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto ... r_storage/

Don

WickedFZR1K · Post by **WickedFZR1K** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 10:13 am

I used to work in a Suzuki/Kawasaki shop that offered winter storage, here is what we did for our customers, it is a little bit of work, but well worth the preventative hassle of having to clean carbs in the spring and it is reworded to my own style...

First and foremost, make sure you work in a ventilated area. Drain the fuel tank down to about 3/4 to 1 gallon (flip the switch to the reserve side of course). Add about 4-6 ounces of seafoam to the remaining gas and start the bike, let it run for a bit to circulate through the fuel pump and carbs...

Now remove the tank and disconnect the fuel line from it (shutting the valve off first), drain the float bowls, (at this point it would be very wise to unplug the fuel pump for a bit as it will refill your empty carbs soon as you turn the ignition on). Once they are empty, tighten the drain plugs and turn the choke fully on, start the bike (it will only run for a second)...

Disconnect the battery and plug the fuel pump back in, not forgetting to hook the fuel tank line back up (leave the petcock in the off position). You can opt to put rags in the air box inlet at this time to keep varmin out (I have seen airboxes full of dog food in the spring), but use a post it note on the speedo to remind u they are there next spring, reinstall the tank and drain the remaining gas out. To prevent rust, you can spray Kawasaki (or any other brand u like) Fogging oil inside the tank, go heavy as rust in the tank is very bad (duh!), it wont hurt anything and will get diluted when u refill the tank in the spring (the first tank of fuel may smoke a bit, but will soon clear)...

A rag in the exhaust pipe is also a good idea at this point (dog food, corn, soybean and whatever presents mice decide to leave you make a hell of a racket when they hit the car or the neighbors house). Remove the battery and place it in a constant temperature area, hooked upto a battery tender (just a added note, the old tale about concrete killing batteries is complete b/s and comes from, in my area anyways, Mr. Farmer pulling the tractor batteries in the fall, setting them in the barn and finding them dead the next spring, not being smart enough to realize batteries naturally WILL loose their charge if left for months on end with no maintenance). I would air the tires up and set the bike somewhere out of the way under a cover (an old comforter would also work good). Hug your baby goodnite and enjoy the winter...

AH, SPRING HAS FINALLY ARRIVED!!! The grass is getting green, you wanna ride and its that time. Find your baby, she should be where you left. Remove the tank, turn the petcock on and pull the rags out of the airbox inlet. Remove the rag from the exhaust too, might smell if it melts/catches fire...

Add fresh gas, drain the oil and change your oil filter, refill with your favorite dino bone juice (heheh my new oil terminoligy). Find the battery, check the voltage and reinstall it. Check the tire pressures and enjoy the summer. She might need a good bath, depending on if you wanna ride a dirty bike or not...

Hope this helps...

WickedFZR1K · Post by **WickedFZR1K** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 10:32 am

I have edited the previous post too much, time for a new one. I read the link and just wanted to comment about the Stabile in the gas. While it is true that Stabile WILL prevent tarnishing, it does NOT prevent the gas from breaking down and loosing its potency. You might as well drain the tank and fog it. Plus you can get some extra gas in your work car...

RUFtech · Post by **RUFtech** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 5:19 pm

I have used Sta-bil for many tears. I have left gas in tanks for monthhs and the gas was as fresh as the day I put it in. According to Sta-bil's website, gas will stay fresh for 12 months and if the dose is doubled will last 2 years. I have used it in my motorcycles, Seadoo's, and cars that I seldom drive. I have never had a fuel related problem as long as I used Sta-bil. One thing I have found though, is that metal fuel tanks have to be full, otherwise rust can occur above the fuel level.

Another thing I will do is use a fogging spray for the cylinders. This will keep any rust from attacking the cylinder walls. I change oil before I store the vehicle and then change oil and filter after storage.

Everybody has their own way. This is mine.

mattlefler · Post by **mattlefler** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 11:55 am

Thanks for the info...I am currently running Amsoil 10/40 full synth, for winterizing can I just throw some inexpensive dino oil in there until spring then drain it and change the filter, refil with Amsoil at the start of riding season? I hate the idea of 40 bucks worth of oil just to store and then pitch...

Thanks,

RUFtech · Post by **RUFtech** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:20 pm

Hey Matt,
Not to change the subject, but how do you like the Amsoil? I just became a prefered customer for Amsoil so that I can get it cheaper. It only costs $20 a year to be a customer and the prices are a lot less. I have used Amsoil for years in my cars and love it.

Post by **jjs777** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 4:58 am

WickedFZR1K wrote:I

Disconnect the battery and plug the fuel pump back in, not forgetting to hook the fuel tank line back up (leave the petcock in the off position). You can opt to put rags in the air box inlet at this time to keep varmin out (I have seen airboxes full of dog food in the spring), but use a post it note on the speedo to remind u they are there next spring, reinstall the tank and drain the remaining gas out. To prevent rust, you can spray Kawasaki (or any other brand u like) Fogging oil inside the tank, go heavy as rust in the tank is very bad (duh!), it wont hurt anything and will get diluted when u refill the tank in the spring (the first tank of fuel may smoke a bit, but will soon clear)...

A rag in the exhaust pipe is also a good idea at this point (dog food, corn, soybean and whatever presents mice decide to leave you make a hell of a racket when they hit the car or the neighbors house). ...

NO REALLY !!!

YOU REALLY SHOULD PUT A RAG IN THE AIR INLET HOLES AND PLUG the AIRBOX!

why you may ask ?

I went to swap carbs on my 95fzr - noticed a few mice droppings on the engine - and figured....well lets see if what they say is correct about rodents in the airbox.

BASTARDS!

I had about 3/4 of air cleaner filter filled with food - looks like they were storing up for next winter.

I opted NOT to take pics...it makes me mad just thinking about it. I feel I have been violated.

next on the list - mouse traps and glue traps

stan · Post by **stan** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 5:52 am

excuse my ignorance, but exactlly how cold are we talking about????

I ride all year long in Melbourne, it gets a little cold, and the rain can piss you off, but we are in a drought, so it's just cold...

stan

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:59 pm

Hey Matt,

I'd do all Stig was suggesting, sorry fellas, that's all I had time to read, then make sure to turn the fuel off and run the carbs dry. (Also make sure the tank was as full as possible.

Battery on the tender for sure.

Oil, Potato, Patatoe? Sticklers will tell you to change it before it sits, and then change it again at the beginning of the season.

EXUP Worldwide

best way to winterize

best way to winterize

winterize

little bastards