EXUP Worldwide

If your EXUP was stock, what upgrades or alterations would you make first? Performance wise, what would be the best upgrades for your money--the low hanging fruit, so to speak? Exhaust? Carbs? Sprockets? Ignition?

I got my 92 FZR 1000 used and I know little about its past. It has a Yosh pipe, but I don't know if the carbs are jetted for it, or even what that really means. I have a 16/46 sprocket setup. The bike is fast but I don't think it's making the horsepower that it should be. I kind of wish that my front wheel would come up when I max out the throttle in 1st gear. Is this bike just not prone to that kind of thing, or am I seriously lacking something?

I've read on here about some people swapping out their coils with better ones. For the people that have done that, what kind of difference in performance did you notice?

cheap stuff that will get you a noticeable bump in power and drivability.
1) adjust the valves
2) Degree the cams. 102 and 105 degrees intake and exh
3) Clean the carbs. Then clean them again\
4) advance the exup valve three turns on the adjuster
5) 17/50 gearing. I know everyone says 16/47. They're wrong. 17/50 will last longer and allow more power to the ground

There....ya haven't hardly spent any money at all an dyou've taken three tenths off your quarter mile times

No go think about clutch plates and springs.....

like the title says I am back home and the ol'97 yzf started and ran like a champ after sitting for nearly two years in a friendly garage. I am going to lube the exup tomorrow since I got a 7K rpm flashing yesterday. Can you explain the advance the exup 3 turns on the adjuster? I'd love to do the cam degreeing as well, but I know what my limitations are. Thanks.

dragracer1951 wrote:cheap stuff that will get you a noticeable bump in power and drivability.
1) adjust the valves
2) Degree the cams. 102 and 105 degrees intake and exh
3) Clean the carbs. Then clean them again\
4) advance the exup valve three turns on the adjuster
5) 17/50 gearing. I know everyone says 16/47. They're wrong. 17/50 will last longer and allow more power to the ground

There....ya haven't hardly spent any money at all an dyou've taken three tenths off your quarter mile times

No go think about clutch plates and springs.....

Have to agree with the change to 17/50 gearing.

I took Jims advice a while back (and why wouldn't you) when i was replacing my chain and sprockets with a 520 conversion

It costs you a little if you are comuting, but the drive out of 3rd gear twisties is well worth the effort

I have also upgraded the brakes on my 91 1K with Blue spots and master cyl off a 98 R1, braided lines and Brembo Discs

This all took time of course, as it took me about 18 months to get my bike to where i was resonably happy with it's overall performance

stan

pwarnery wrote:...Can you explain the advance the exup 3 turns on the adjuster?...

You'll have to take the tank off first.

Then locate the EXUP servo as well as the the cables running from it.

Follow the cables until you come across the adjusters. Then follow the cables on down to the Valve.

Once you have the cover off, you'll notice the valve has a pully where the cables attach. On the pully there's a little fork and that "should" line up with the hole behind it.

Now go back to the adjusters and adjust them until the fork is lined up with the hole. Once that is done, trun the adjuster so that the valve is just slightly open by three turns of the proper adjuster.

Let me know if that is confusing enough.

back home and to the Brotherhood

since I just did the job yesterday every is still fresh in my mind. But one question though. When facing the pulley with the Little prong lined up, do I adjust the cable so that the pulley spins clock wise? I suppose I can also take the cover off and then rev the engine and see in which direction it spins...I did also cycle the ignition on and off with an alen wrench jammed through the pulley to keep it from spinning. Thanks for the welcome FZRDude.

dragracer1951 wrote:17/50 gearing

Jim, I know we have been through this before but I don't remember the discussion. Why 17/50 and not 17/49 ?

I found that 49 is generally the biggest that you can get in steel. I looked for quite a while and that's all I could find.

17/50 is the same ratio as 16/47
17/49 is fine.
the issue is bigger front as to keep the chain fresh longer. and keep the chain off teh swingarm.

the issue is bigger front

I have always understood that a smaller front sprocket can lead to reliability problems or premature chain wear. The 17/50 (or 17/49 in steel) makes sense if you're trying to match a 16/47.

a smaller front sprocket actually loads the bearing harder as well.
Prolly not enough to be of any great concern, but it does...

17/50 is the same ratio as 16/47
17/49 is fine.
the issue is bigger front as to keep the chain fresh longer. and keep the chain off teh swingarm.

i'm running a 520 conversion on my fzr1000 with the 17/50 set up. However my bike is a six speed... just wondering if the final gear ratio is different than the 5 speed as my top speed has been limited to about 230-240km/h... mind you it does get there stupidly fast

on another note:

You'll have to take the tank off first.

Then locate the EXUP servo as well as the the cables running from it.

Follow the cables until you come across the adjusters. Then follow the cables on down to the Valve.

Once you have the cover off, you'll notice the valve has a pully where the cables attach. On the pully there's a little fork and that "should" line up with the hole behind it.

Now go back to the adjusters and adjust them until the fork is lined up with the hole. Once that is done, trun the adjuster so that the valve is just slightly open by three turns of the proper adjuster.

Let me know if that is confusing enough.

I am thinking of attempting this... just want to know if this will lean out or richen the mixture at all... as i think i'm running a little rich right now.

Cheers

Ck

Check your emulsion tubes (go to Factory Pro website and read about it)...

r1 front brakes!

I'm also thinking of installing a stage 1 dynojet kit... should the emulsion tubes be changed at the same time as this?

Ck

OH GOD NOOOOOO!!!! Don't put a dynojet kit in, you'll ruin it!

IF you want a jet kit, put a Factory Pro one in. A quick search of this site will reveal why, but basically the dynojet kit for the FZR sucks.

If you're doing the work yourself, just check (and probably replace)
the emulsion tubes and put the carb settings back to stock and check
(and probably replace) the seals around the float needle unit, jet
block, and carb bowl. That'll get it back to how it was new, and they
were pretty good new *bike of the decade* etc.

See how that goes, the stock settings are pretty good. But if you're
still after more zing, the Factory Pro carb kit is the one to get
and gives a sharper, more accurate throttle response and midrange.

Get a set of Jim's Dogbones i highly recommend them very easy install and they are amazing craftsmenship... they also work great !!!

I've had Jims doggies in for a while.. just want to get the engine all fine tuned... wish i had of heard of the factory pro jet kit before i went out and spent the money on this dynojet kit.

But thanks for the advice... will look into ridding myself of this kit i soppose.

Cheers

Ck

First upgrades ... in my opinion:

- gearing (17t front and 50t rear)
- dogbones (shorter to match your tires and riding style)
- steel braided brake lines
- HH sintered brake pads (front)
- K&N air filter
- valve clearance adjustment if at required maintenance interval
- carb synch and float level adjustment
- new spark plugs
- new high performance tires (120/70/17, 185/55/17)
- adjust and lube EXUP valve if required
- high flow exhaust canister (slip-on muffler)

Get all other maintenance items up to date:
- chassis, steering head, and swingarm pivot points lubed
- adjust clutch and brake levers to fit your riding style
- adjust shift lever and rear brake levers to fit your riding style

After that?
- 1040 cc upgrade
- turbo system
- billet clutch basket and performance clutch plates/springs

I run a 17/47 & a 16/47 depending on what track Im racing at, & my fizzer will turn it selfover if you just nail the throttle in 1st gear. So yours must be a bit sick.. I found the 16/47 to low for open road use. The motor has more than enough power to run a 17/47..

Carbs & valve's are the BIG power zappers on the FZR. Flote levels If they are out of adjustment the bike will muddy but still perform pretty well, but just wont have
that [grunt o plenty] that is should.
Carbs & valves were the single biggest performance gain I made with my FZR. I run a K&N filter in the standard box & a slip on muffler, beleive me it will lift the front wheel in 1st !! Just by turning the grip too far.
if you dump the clutch in second it will come up too..

Take you bike to someone that KNOWS FZRs AND has a dyno. It will be the best money you can spend..

As for R1 brakes, I wouldn't bother. Ive had no issues with the brakes I have. I do use HH sinted pads though. But I do find them to be a little savage & lack feel. The OEM pads are better for feel, but lack the bite of the HH pads. But are still plenty good enough for the FZR