Anitfreeze?

[dragracer1951]

I'm gonna wager that the bike cooling system was over designed enough to NEVER allow the bike temp to reach 250-260.<br><br><br><br>I think you'll lose money on that one<br>Here's the deal. Water pumps cost horsepower, Convection costs thermodynamic efficiency, so we're back to pumps again. Water volume requires a larger radiator which costs aero drag due to increased frontial area, so once again we're back to pumps. Factories like to claim big HP #'s so I think they play it pretty close, they have no choice. Mine regularly goes above 100 cel in the summer in traffic<br>I would be willing to bet that the oil temps in the cyl head are approaching 330 deg in summer traffic. We used to build 1015 Kawasaki's (yea, air cooled I know) that ran 330 degree oil temps in the head and I've built a couple Busa motors for drag racing that also ran 320-330 oil temps<br>All the SBK teams run $5000 hand made radiators to let those race bike motors live.<br>When you go to the dyno room, lots of fans in attendance. Yea I know they don't have air moving like at speed but what they are doing is slowing down heat soak<br>Jim <p></p><i></i>

[jjs777]

Hmmm...<br><br>If I wanted to test my theory re: the coolant never exceeding 250-260 degrees F then I could do this...<br><br>Fill the expansion tank to capacity with engine cold.<br><br>Now drive the bike in the hottest weather and in town.<br><br>If no water exits the overflow hose (just below the dogbones) then you have not reached said temperature of 250-260.<br><br>My calculations for the above assumption is water boils at 212 F and you have a 15lb cap on the radiator. Since every pound above atmospheric is 3 degrees F then 15*3 = 45 so 212+45= 257 degrees - about smack in the middle of my claim. So again...to test whether your bike ever reaches 250-260 in the most intense heat...then fill your expansion tank and watch for any unleashed coolant level. <br><br> <p>-John</p><i></i>

[FZRDude]

<!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>Water</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--> boils at 212 F. Not a water/coolant mixture. Coolant/Antifreeze both raises the boiling temp and freezing temp.<br>I'm not trying to shoot holes in your theory John, just making claifications. You are on the right track, and "in theory" you are, to most extents, correct. That would be a reliable test, given water as the only liquid. <br>But do not rule out the thermostat having adverse effects if it is stuck closed or partially closed. Stuck open is almost the same as not having one.<br> <p>Tim<br><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img69.photobucket.com/albums/v20 ... <!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em> Has anyone seen my keys?</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Dir. of Entertainment<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://eddieandthecruisersmc.com" target="top"> Eddie & the Cruisers</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em><!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>'94 FZR 1000</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--></em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i></i>

[dragracer1951]

<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>Well....just so happens that I did just that (almost) the other day<br>over filled the res (about 3/4 full) an dthe next day got into traffic on a hot day...was trailing water down the dock to the ferry. Gurgle Gurgle<br>Jim <p></p><i></i>

[Hiras]

<!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr><br>I have used the idea of a switch on the cooling fan before to overide the temp switch on the rad, did it on a ZZR I owned, it does make a difference to keep the fan in and hold the temp down, the only problem I had was forgetting to turn it off again, but it does no damage. Just piggy back the couple of wires on the temp. sender upto a switch and away you go. [quote/]<br><br>Hmmm - I have a rocker switch mounted on a panel on my ZXR. A sparky told me that forgetting to turn this off <br>puts unnecessary strain on the coils.<br>Now I may be wrong about this as I am relying on info from someone else as my knowledge of electrics is *ahem minimal but curiously the next thing that malfunctioned on that bike were the coils <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :o --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/embarassed.gif ALT=":o"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>If this is true then surely it's a false economy not to reinstall that thermostatic sen<hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--> <p></p><i></i>

[jjs777]

Me thinks your 1040 might be outside my specs for a 'stock' motor dragracer? <br><br>Though fact is fact for your test - assuming all else is performing as oem intended...then your motor did reach the claimed 250-260 depending on the thermo you have installed. Wow thats hot in my book for an aluminum motor ?<br><br>I might just empty everything out of one of my stock bikes and see what happens. Though big pain to remove both fairings to get at the drain bolts on both sides of the head and the drain bolt on the left side on the water return hose.<br> <p>-John</p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... >jjs777</A>  <IMG HEIGHT=10 WIDTH=10 SRC="http://home.comcast.net/~john.stempien/ ... larger.gif" BORDER=0> at: 7/21/04 6:28 am<br></i>