My old TL1000s

spook · Post by **spook** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:15 am

As it turned out I wasn't happy with the clear-coat, so it has been sanded redone and now looks the business. Keyless gas cap is fitted, (saves key hassles and about a kilo) and tail light and flush mount led array indicators are in place. Should have the core bike finalised in the next day or so.

I'm keen to get it finished... Went for a ride with racerstation over the weekend and had a ball... Need more power...lol

One question. The voltage regulator rectifier is getting very warm after only a few minutes of running. I've earthed it back to the loom as a precaution, but it has made no difference. How hot should they get? Any suggestions? Cheers.

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 3:42 pm

Not sure, they're obviously going to get warm though Spook. What about bringing the rectifier ground right back to the frame, on bare metal, no paint whatsoever right? You didn't change any of the wire gauge did you? It can never hurt for your ground to be of bigger gauge than the power supply gauge wire.

spook · Post by **spook** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:56 pm

The earth setup should be good, I have a major wire soldered into the earth circut of the loom and a ring terminal to the mounting bolt. I'll check the mounting point contact for ground continuity as well. It's getting so warm that you couldn't hold your hand on it, I can't imagine that is right?

Big Jon · Post by **Big Jon** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 7:26 pm

Sounds too hot, most of the time they're attached to the frame for ground purposes but also for additional heat dispersion as the frame can act as a heat sink too. Ask a dealer?

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 5:58 pm

Definitely TOO HOT Spook,

As Jon had pointed out, a lot of times you see the rectifier very near the frame. I would try doing like I said. Don't go back to the loom, it doesn't matter if you go back to the loom with a bigger wire anyways, as the loom just has a tiny 18-22g wire.

Just like plumbing, the water can only go as fast as the slowest part in the river allows? Ground wires, you always want to make as short as possible, as in as short as Napoleon's member if you know what I mean. Take the rectifier ground immediately to an isolated and bare frame ground no longer than 6", using a good thick gauge wire, 10 -12 g and see if that doesn't fix your issue. Make sure your using a good ring terminal with an excellent connection also. Let me know how that goes?

spook · Post by **spook** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:01 pm

Cheers Guys, I'm doing the last of the wiring today, I'll make sure rectifier is earthed to the sub-frame correctly. Everything has been powder coated so there is a chance that parts are insulated. I've checked the regulators continuity to earth and it shows it is in fact earthed to frame, as is the engine. I will have the tank on later (finished!!) so will fuel it up and check output voltage when running?

I'm also fitting up a code learning paging alarm system with micro wave sensors etc, There is no key on this bike in keeping with the race-bike look, the alarm will report back to the remote, if tampered with within a range of 3-5 km. It also has remote/auto start, which we should be able to have a bit of fun with

JasonL · Post by **JasonL** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:34 pm

Better make sure its in neutral if you do that...!

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:03 pm

Hey Jay,

Just to let you know, Any good install with good product; in regard to a standard transmission and autostart would never actually start in gear. Many safety nets to avoid doing so.

spook · Post by **spook** » Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:38 pm

It has side stand, clutch, and gear position permissive's. Clutch will have to be overridden (jumper) if you want to use it. It's a bit of a wank, but could be a bit of fun at a cafe when some girls walk by etc.

I've checked everything, phases on genny resistances, earthed it back to battery etc. Output is right. I found a diagram and it doesn't appear to require an earth anyway. It's 3 phase, with 70volts input, so it's bound to create some heat. (56deg C to be precise) I'll leave it for the moment and see how it behaves. I have a spare off my old CBR929 racebike, so if worse comes to worse I can change the plug and I'm set.

Tank's fitted for the last time, a few wiring sundries to be taken care of. Made a functioning radiator overflow bottle for it

On the home stretch now

hotcam · Post by **hotcam** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 4:57 am

Heh. I love can coolant bottles.

Post by **FZRDude** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:06 am

Is the tail a little tweaked to the right? Seems like the taillight isn't centered. Hell, my head isn't centered right .... what the hell was I thinking again?

spook · Post by **spook** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 6:05 pm

Haha Tim... The shock is offset slightly to the left. The yoshi system is too, due to the offset of the swing arm. The light is pretty good

I'm also standing slightly left to take the shot. I included this view as this is how most people will see it on the road

hotcam · Post by **hotcam** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 9:45 pm

I just realized why your regulator is running hot. With no headlight, led tail light, minimum wiring, and minimum instruments, there is almost nothing using any electricity on your bike, Just the coils and computer.
Twin Headlight and globe-type taillight alone would mean around 100-140watts of power that is normally used up but now has to be gotten rid of by the regulator.

I reckon once you get a 130/90 endurance-style headlight in there, the regulator will run cooler.

spook · Post by **spook** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:21 pm

Good thinking Cam. Thanks :cool

sickle44 · Post by **sickle44** » Sat Apr 24, 2010 5:09 pm

Dohhhhh!!!

spook · Post by **spook** » Sat May 01, 2010 7:03 am

Actually the reg issue was an earth problem. Even though the reg was earthed back through the loom, the entire rear sub frame was insulated with the powder coating. An earth has been established and the reg now barely gets warm. Thanks for the input guys.

Another problem, I was having issues with neutral light and running with stand down etc. It was the gear position sender, which apart from being annoying, interfere's with the FI mapping. There is the potential for it to run the neutral map in all gears, resulting in the engine running lean. These switches are apparently prone to playing up. Down side is, the entire clutch had to come out to swap over... lol.

Seat padding is sorted, all went well there! Just need to sew up the vinyl cover and get it on. I think it ties the dolphins head into the tank nicely!

The paging alarm works well, as does the remote start... I was amusing JasonL with it this morning

So apart from rear indicators it is pretty much finished. Just need to make the front fairings, fit head light, screen etc and it is done!

I'm booking to do a ride day on it later in the month with Jason. Good motivation to have it finish and have some fun.

Post by **FZRDude** » Sat May 01, 2010 10:22 am

That is looking REALLY good Spook.

I think once the upper fairing is on it won't make your butt look so big.

spook · Post by **spook** » Sat May 01, 2010 11:01 am

FZRDude wrote:I think once the upper fairing is on it won't make your butt look so big.

I think so too Tim...lol. But you know, a fat arse is always going to be a fat arse... Here's a couple of more pic's from today... I won't bore you all with any more until it is done!

After the track day it's likely to be in for a re-build anyway

Has that tail light moved again Tim?

creed12r · Post by **creed12r** » Sat May 01, 2010 5:13 pm

spook wrote:

That back end is F***king huge.

hotcam · Post by **hotcam** » Sun May 02, 2010 3:33 am

Nearly there! Looks great in the metal, too!