New chain break-in/lube

orionburn · Post by **orionburn** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 10:02 am

Got my new chain/sprocket kit in today. Have a couple questions before I put it on. 1) The chain is already greased. Do I need to do any further lubrication to it? Or just wait and re-oil after the standard miles? 2) Is there a break-in procedure for new chains? Just wondering if there is anything special I need to know or if I should ride like normal. I don't ride that hard anyways, but like I said I'm curious if I'm missing anything. Don't know if it matters, but I have a 530/steel sprocket/gold x-ring kit. Thanks all <img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Cheers.gif ALT=":cheers"> Nate 87 FZR1000 There once was a man from Seattle, who jumped into his FZR saddle. He went into a bend, came out on his head, and now is really quite dim. His name is Tim, we committed a sin, oh why did we make him admin?Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... ionburn</A> at: 9/27/04 8:02 am

canappa · Post by **canappa** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 10:53 am

about braek in dont know but im pretty sure that there is no need. about oil, use sae 80 mineral oil or similar (for truck), nothing better, oil the o ring side not the roller, every 150-500 km depend on road condition, rain, etc.

canappa · Post by **canappa** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 10:56 am

forget to tell, better oil the chain after a trip or so when it is warm so oil go better in the o ring. dont use grease, it collect dirt and end to less life of your chain-sprocket.

Nbot · Post by **Nbot** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 11:16 am

From what I've heard the oil/grease that came on the chain is the best oiling job that the chain will ever see. No need to reoil until ~300 miles!! Nbot '94 Fizzer Litre

orionburn · Post by **orionburn** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:31 pm

Would you believe I actually got lucky for once? <img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... ananna.gif ALT=":banana"> My breaker/riveter tool came in today. Lucked out because the kit only came with a rivet link and no master link. So, won't even have to worry about using a master link at all. Now for the riveting part. Found some info <a href="http://www.motorcycliststore.com/howto/chainbreaking/" target="top">here</a>. Should the plate that goes over the pins be REALLY tight...as in you won't be able to get the plate over the pins without a tool? I'm looking at the link and there isn't a whole lot of room in there. From what I gathered that's what you do, then switch parts around and put the one in that will mushroom out the ends of the pin, correct? Kit didn't come with any instructions so I'm in the dark a bit. Nate 87 FZR1000 There once was a man from Seattle, who jumped into his FZR saddle. He went into a bend, came out on his head, and now is really quite dim. His name is Tim, we committed a sin, oh why did we make him admin?Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... ionburn</A> at: 9/27/04 11:32 am

canappa · Post by **canappa** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 4:30 pm

that info are not as good but better than nothing, the riveting part: be shure to rivet the plate as much as possible as have no chance to remove the plate without an extractor! your job have to be as good as the other link in the chain, so check carefully that the pins are really tight with the plate. after the chain is ready go for a short run and check if it overheat after 10 miles or so, if overheat there is too much tension or too little lube. I suggest to lube it a little every 200 miles. also check tension every 300 miles. with the proper tension there is less wear and transmission work much better.

Nbot · Post by **Nbot** » Tue Sep 28, 2004 1:19 pm

lube the pins and orings nice and good before doing it, and make sure you rivet both pins to the same length. And yes you can mushroom them too far in, just go the same width as the other pins. Nbot '94 Fizzer Litre

orionburn · Post by **orionburn** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 6:51 am

Ok, probably just "first time" experience and all....but what a pain in the @$$!!!!! Botched the rivet job and had to go get a clip type master link. Think I'm just going to take it into the shop next week and have them rivet one for me. Guy said they probably wouldn't even charge me for it. Just want to see how it's properly done so I know how to do it next time. I was doing ok, but something was out of line and ended up where it started to push the pin out the other end. Tried and tried and finally gave up on it. God I hate being a rookie on everything...thanks for all the input guys. Nate 87 FZR1000 There once was a man from Seattle, who jumped into his FZR saddle. He went into a bend, came out on his head, and now is really quite dim. His name is Tim, we committed a sin, oh why did we make him admin?

canappa · Post by **canappa** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 12:45 pm

ok for now, but just be sure to put red siliconic paste on the clip to avoid it open, so you can run without worry to check if the clip is still there every stop. change it to the rivet link asap cause the clip link is not made to stand a torque of a liter bike.

Nbot · Post by **Nbot** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 5:39 pm

Also, PLEASE make sure that the two plates are as compressed width wise compared to the other plate widths. And make sure that the clip is actually in the groove and not just clicked onto the pin...I lost a clip like that once!! (yeah being a rook sucks........) Nbot '94 Fizzer Litre

orionburn · Post by **orionburn** » Fri Oct 01, 2004 5:57 am

Yeah made sure the plates were good. Keeping an eye on it but, so far so good. Don't think my local shop carries Afam products so I'll have to order a new link from somewhere. Nate 87 FZR1000 There once was a man from Seattle, who jumped into his FZR saddle. He went into a bend, came out on his head, and now is really quite dim. His name is Tim, we committed a sin, oh why did we make him admin?

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New chain break-in/lube

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