chain reaction

[tnt5655]

dear reader I am thinking of lowering the gearing of my FZR1000 exup 1990 model. I am going to fit a 16 tooth sprocket at the front and a 49 tooth at the rear. What I need to know is what size chain I would need to run? Many thanks for any reply. TNT5655. <p></p><i></i>

[dragracer1951]

I run 16/47 530 on my 95 1040 and that works quite well<br>J <p></p><i></i>

[Nbot]

I Jim, I switched mine to the 16/47 with a 520 chain, but in retrospec switching to the 520 for "unsprung" weight loss along with aluminum sprocket was unnecessary. I mean the bike is not really on a diet, so.....Definitely go with steel sprockets so they don't wear out so easily (as the alum) and stick w/ a 530 (or 532 maybe oem? doesn't really matter as long as you are changing both sprockets.).<br><br><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://p072.ezboard.com/fexupbrotherhoo ... opic">Read thru this thread back when JohnJ and I both swapped gearing.</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> The bike accelerates MUCH BETTER now, it always felt like a slug in first gear, even with my stumble spot completely fixed. <p><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:lime;font-size:medium;">Nbot</span><!--EZCODE FONT END--><br><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>'94 Fizzer Litre</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--><br>Be alert ... the world needs more lerts ... :)</p><i></i>

[Matt at PSB]

Reducing the number of teeth on the C/S sprocket is counterproductive & inferior to increasing the number of teeth on the rear sprocket. Here is why.<br><br>The smaller C/S sprocket has a reduced radius causing the chain to flex & bend more to go around this tighter radius. This greatly increases chain stresses & heat causing a much-shortened chain service life and therefore shorter sprocket(s) life (lives). The end result is greater wear & shorter service life of all chain related final drive parts.<br><br>Therefore it is a wiser choice is to go with a larger rear sprocket and stay with the 17 tooth C/S sprocket. Realizing that very large rear sprockets might result, and this could lead to having to remove the chain guard and/or have to have custom made rear sprocket. The cost of a custom-made rear sprocket adds about $25USD to the cost of the sprocket.<br><br>However, if you are running alloy (non-steel) rear sprockets and/or smaller than 530 chains than you have already obviated any service life gains possible by following the above advice and should therefore ignore it.<br><br>Yes, this means that I am of the school of thought that says weight savings <!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>on a streetbike</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--> is inappropriate on high stress; high wear, critical & expensive parts like those found in a chain final drive.<br><br>Matt at PSB<br> <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p072.ezboard.com/bexupbrotherhoo ... atpsb>Matt at PSB</A> at: 12/3/04 1:13 am<br></i>

[canappa]

I totally agree with you Matt, when i changed my 92 fzr gears, i first choice to put a 50 teeths rear, but relized that at about 30000 km the chain it too worn to match the teeth of a new sprocket....there is no way to fit! So i get a 16 front and went with it and the stock 47 rear. result with bike rideability where really good, but i have to correct chain tension much often like every 200 km instead of every 400 km....but the 532 size is too big and heavy if you dont need it last 30000 km or so, I think a 530 size is ok in saving some weight and lasting enough, 20000 km is possible if properly oiled. using an hardened alloy rear should save at least one pound, but surely the rear sprocket will end its life far before the chain....<br>using a 520 with an steel sprocket will not save much weight and the lasting will not be better than a 530 hardened alloy i think. maybe one good choice is 17/49 <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :cheers --><img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/ ... Cheers.gif ALT=":cheers"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>